NF - Towing with a Rav4

[John Bacon]

Does anyone have any experience towing with a four cylinder Rav4? I currently have a 2015 Rav4 and 2005 GMC Jimmy; but I need to reduce that to just one vehicle in the near future. I would rather keep the Jimmy; but, it may not make financial sense.

I have a 16' Princecraft with a 50hp Merc 2 stroke on it. It's not too heavy but it will exceed the 1,500 pound towing capacity what all of the gear is included.

I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has had experience towing with this vehicle.

[DanD]

I haven't towed with a rav; but I do work on them and I think the thing would pull your trailer OK; but it will be working to do it.

My concern would be stopping. that's where I suggest that you have brakes installed on the trailer. I would also suggest surge brakes over electric; due to the design of the electric needing clean, smooth drum surface for the electro magnet to adhere too during braking. Electricity, magnets, bare steel and water adds up to corrosion.

Surge brake is a bit more costly on installation; but less maintenance and servicing required. If you've ever had a loaded trailer push you through an intersection; you'll know the importance of trailer brakes.

 

Dan.

[Terry]

DanD has the answer

[Rizzo]

I tow something bigger than that with a caravan. You should be fine

[Sinker]

I dont have a rav, but i towed a 16ft deep and wide starcraft with a 40 and all the extras with a subaru forester for a few years. It was a turbo so i had plenty of power, but it was really hard on the car. Brakes took a major beating. The rav will do it but it going to wear it out quick and stopping isnt going to be great. Even on windy days you will get blown all over the road. Its not an ideal set up but it will do it, barely.

[John Bacon]

I haven't towed with a rav; but I do work on them and I think the thing would pull your trailer OK; but it will be working to do it.

My concern would be stopping. that's where I suggest that you have brakes installed on the trailer. I would also suggest surge brakes over electric; due to the design of the electric needing clean, smooth drum surface for the electro magnet to adhere too during braking. Electricity, magnets, bare steel and water adds up to corrosion.

Surge brake is a bit more costly on installation; but less maintenance and servicing required. If you've ever had a loaded trailer push you through an intersection; you'll know the importance of trailer brakes.

 

Dan.

Thanks, would you happen to have a ball park cost of installing brakes on a trailer? Am I looking at hundreds, or thousands?

[ch312]

I've been in a 2014 Rav4 towing a load that was around 1,500lbs and it was decent. However, don't expect to go screaming past others while passing them and it'll never be as stable as towing with a truck. You'll definitely want trailer brakes.

 

As for brakes, 25 years ago you'd want to shy away from electric brakes, but these days there are multiple options specifically designed for boat trailers. No matter how you slice it, surge brakes suck in comparison.

 

-no vehicle traction means no trailer brakes either (snow, ice, mud, up or down hill) with surge while electric can be controlled 100% independently from the vehicle brakes

 

-electric brakes are activated quicker which results in shorter stopping distances

 

-surge can activate when unwanted on steep grades

 

-much easier to repair the electric system

 

-a few taps on the electric controller can stop an improperly loaded trailer from swaying

 

 

[Terry]

about 10 years ago i was looking to put brakes on my trailer for the same reasons

 

i found i could buy new for close to what it was going to cost to have someone add brakes

sold my trailer and only had to add 500 bucks to get the new one with brakes , i could not find a 16ft so had to get a 17ft trailer for my 16 ft boat

[DanD]

Thanks, would you happen to have a ball park cost of installing brakes on a trailer? Am I looking at hundreds, or thousands?

 

I depends on whether the axle on your trail can accommodate the brake backing plates, whether you go surge or electric and disc or drum set up?

If you go electric, which is going to be drum brake; even if you have to change the axle (Likely will) the cost would likely be under a grand or close too; if you have someone do it for you.

If you can do the install; Princess Auto has a 3500lb axle (72") complete with a drum brake set up, on sale for $330.00.

A controller for around a $100.00, a bit of wiring and you're set.

 

Dan.

Edited December 29, 2016 by DanD

[mikeh]

as soon as you say you are over your towing capacity, I'd say get a bigger vehicle(or one that has a higher rating) ,

[spincast]

I would likely want to know the implications for insurance and highway traffic act violations of towing in excess of the vehicle capacity. As a commercial operator, I know it has some pretty significant fines and points associated with it. With or without brakes, I suspect there might be some issues here if you were ever involved in an accident, regardless of fault, (ones a lawyer would find very attractive for the other-side, and one your insurance company likely would not respond to). Wouldn't be a good outcome in a long weekend blitz such as the OPP run either.

[hutch4113]

I have not towed with a RAV4, but did tow for a while with a CUV (Hyundai Veracruz). While I had thought I calculated the weight of my boat correctly, and was under the 3500 pound towing limit on the vehicle, I did not take into account things likes supplies and/or people in the Car. Also did not take into account tongue weight.

 

I now tow with a Truck, and the difference is night and day - and I would not want to go back.

 

As mentioned, one key area is braking, and as DanD mentioned, there are things you can do to provide that. But another key factor is stability, and the Vehicles ability to handle the weight behind it. I often felt like the Boat was pushing my tow vehicle around - and I did not realize how true that was, until I got a properly sized tow vehicle. Now it feels like the Truck is in control - and if I had to do something evasive, I would be more comfortable about maintaining control.

 

Something to think about anyway.

[floater]

I have an 04 CRV and I tow my 14 deep and wide with a 30 hp two stroke and three batteries on board with all the gear. No idea how much it weighs but I've never had an issue on the road or highway. Launching sometimes I get wet if the ramp is very shallow. It's a 5 speed standard and i'm still passing everyone in sight! Just make sure your tongue weight is below what that car calls for.

[lookinforwalleye]

most of the reasons you should not exceed the legal towing capacity have been covered....I will add...you will void your warranty

[aplumma]

It is not the times that things are going right you need to worry about it is if you can keep yourself from wrecking when someone else messes you up. Exceeding your abilities of your tow vehicle is a legal nightmare not to mention the fact that you might injure someone and have to live with the fact it could possibly have been avoided. I say don't do it if you can afford the luxury of a boat you need to be responsible and tow with the correct vehicle.

 

Sorry this is a pet peeve of mine I saw someone get killed when an overloaded RV was being towed with a compact pick up.

 

Art

[John]

What Art said. The tail is going to wag the dog.

[porkpie]

I tow with a 4 cylinder SUV all the time. If the ramp is crap where I'm headed then I might take my truck instead. My boat went across the scales fully loaded with gear, 16 foot with a 50hp and it weighed right on 1480LBS. My towing capacity is 1500. My exact vehicle they use in Australia to tow 3500LB glass boats regularily. The only difference being trailer brakes. I believe a lot of North American vehicles get under rated. It depends how much heavier your boat is! If it where my vehicle, and it was within a couple hundred pounds, I'd probably do it.

Edited December 30, 2016 by porkpie

[DRIFTER_016]

You could always trade in both vehicles and pick up a Hylander!!!

Mileage would be a bit less than the Rave but much better than the GM and you can tow 5,000#'s.

[John Bacon]

You could always trade in both vehicles and pick up a Hylander!!!

Mileage would be a bit less than the Rave but much better than the GM and you can tow 5,000#'s.

 

The problem is that there is loan on the Rav4 that is way higher than what I could get for a trade in. If the loan and vehicle values were close, I would just get rid of the Rav4 and keep the Jimmy that has plenty of capacity to tow my boat.

 

 

[Mister G]

Don't upgrade the trailer to brakes but rather upgrade the brakes on the RAV4 instead.

 

Carbon Metallic pads and slotted calipers all the way around if the RAV has rear disc brakes. This can be done yourself over a weekend.

 

Try Rockauto.com for all your brake parts.

 

This will make your RAV stop much better with or without the boat on.

 

I have done this on my last two vehicles the results are amazing...........However, since your vehicle is not considered a tow vehicle you have to settle for a ceramic metallic pad for the best stopping power.

 

This would be your best choice for pads front and rear....

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5416965&cc=3308945&jsn=442&jsn=442

 

And this would be your best rotors to go with......

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2025656&cc=3308945&jsn=510

[DanD]

I agree that the brake up grade will help any tow vehicle; but if the trailer can push past the vehicle's stopping abilities; it doesn't matter what you've got for up grades.

Example; you're foot is into the brake peddle hard enough to cause wheel lock up and you're sliding; the brake system has done its job; but there not enough vehicle to overcome the push of the trailer.

Plus this Rav likely has ABS, which will not allow locking of the wheels; so you're going through that intersection whether you like to or not.

Trailer brakes will handle the trailer and allow the tow vehicle's brake to do their own job.

 

Believe me I know this from experience.

1/2 ton pick up truck on the trailer; my 1500 Avalanche towing the trailer, no trailer brake controller on the Avalanche. A traffic light turned unexpectedly on me and all I could hear was the ABS going nuts trying to stop the wheels from locking. I gave up trying to stop halfway through the intersection and got back on the throttle. I pulled over and had to clean out my shorts; no idea how I made it through without hitting anyone.

 

Dan.

[DRIFTER_016]

Don't upgrade the trailer to brakes but rather upgrade the brakes on the RAV4 instead.

 

Carbon Metallic pads and slotted calipers all the way around if the RAV has rear disc brakes. This can be done yourself over a weekend.

 

Try Rockauto.com for all your brake parts.

 

This will make your RAV stop much better with or without the boat on.

 

I have done this on my last two vehicles the results are amazing...........However, since your vehicle is not considered a tow vehicle you have to settle for a ceramic metallic pad for the best stopping power.

 

This would be your best choice for pads front and rear....

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5416965&cc=3308945&jsn=442&jsn=442

 

And this would be your best rotors to go with......

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2025656&cc=3308945&jsn=510

 

Better yet go with EBC pads and rotors.

 

http://ebcbrakes.com/

 

Check out brake selector chart.

The links below are for the suggested pads and rotors for this group of vehicles: SUV, 4x4 and light truck maximum stopping for towing and loads etc.

 

http://ebcbrakes.com/product/yellowstuff-high-friction-truck-sport-brake-pads/

 

http://ebcbrakes.com/product/3gd-sport-rotors/

[DRIFTER_016]

Keep in mind that towing heavy loads at the vehicles maximum is going to be hard on the drive train.

You're going to be running the engine hard and hot as well as reducing the life of the transmission (automatic) due to extreme fluid temps.

[huzzsaba]

You could always trade in both vehicles and pick up a Hylander!!!

Mileage would be a bit less than the Rave but much better than the GM and you can tow 5,000#'s.

Or you can get one of these! 2004+ Volvo xc90. I own one with 2.5t, 5 cylinder engine.AWD with self leveling rear suspension. They can tow a lot and are fuel efficient and reliable, and extremely comfortable. I have owned mine for the past 5 years and (knock on wood) no issues other than the usual maintenance work on every other car. The photo is not mine but I know tons of Volvo guys who tow boats and trailer with no issues.

 

For those who do want to consider a volvo, anything 2004 and newer with 2.5t engine is the way to go!

Edited December 30, 2016 by huzzsaba

[Mister G]

 

Better yet go with EBC pads and rotors.

 

http://ebcbrakes.com/

 

Check out brake selector chart.

The links below are for the suggested pads and rotors for this group of vehicles: SUV, 4x4 and light truck maximum stopping for towing and loads etc.

 

http://ebcbrakes.com/product/yellowstuff-high-friction-truck-sport-brake-pads/

 

http://ebcbrakes.com/product/3gd-sport-rotors/

EBC pads are not available for a RAV and Drilled Rotors have now been proven NOT to be good for performance or towing. They are now just for looks.