Hours On Outboards

[Musky Plug]

Hey guys looking for some advice. Currently looking at possibly purchasing a new boat one with 115 Honda 4stroke and other Yamaha. Both boats are around 13-15 years old. Both are in visibly good condition but how many hours would be considered to many on a boat of that age? 

 

[Fisherman]

Too many, all depends on previous use and how the owner treated it.  I gave a 20 year old Honda 25 to a family member, it needed a new gasket in one spot, that was it.  When the mechanic looked at the internals, he told me it looked like new, no wear on the cams or valves, 100% compression.  I used the Amsoil synthetic and that motor probably had 2000 hours on it.  I'm not one to start a motor and immediately try to go warp speed, let things warm up a bit and go moderately before cruising. 

[LostAnotherOne]

Bought a 14 footer with a 20 Yamaha behind it 3 years ago from a member on here.  Both were made in 96 and works great.  All depends on how it was looked after over the years.  Good luck

[Garnet]

Start with a compression test.

[HTHM]

And then a leak-down test 

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leak-down_tester

[captpierre]

As far as I know. Hours don’t reflect RPMs. Big difference if trolling vs WOT. 

[Old Ironmaker]

1 hour ago, captpierre said:

As far as I know. Hours don’t reflect RPMs. Big difference if trolling vs WOT. 

Exactly as above by catpierre. I wouldn't buy a low mileage car from someone that uses it at the track or drags every weekend. I  have a saying, "Never buy a snowmachine from someone in the Arctic and never buy a boat from Florida." For anyone looking to buy a watercraft I strongly suggest going to iboats.com. and searching there then asking questions. Search first and if you don't find your answer then ask a specific question. There is a sticky under General Boating that is a great list of things to look for on a used boat/engine.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/general-boating-outdoors-activities/boat-topics-and-questions-not-engine-topics

Edited October 7, 2018 by Old Ironmaker

[Musky Plug]

20 hours ago, Garnet said:

Start with a compression test.

 

16 hours ago, HTHM said:

And then a leak-down test 

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leak-down_tester

I'm assuming I would have to take it to a mechanic in order to check those? 

Edited October 7, 2018 by Musky Plug

[Musky Plug]

14 hours ago, captpierre said:

As far as I know. Hours don’t reflect RPMs. Big difference if trolling vs WOT. 

What does WOT stand for?

[Musky Plug]

12 hours ago, Old Ironmaker said:

Exactly as above by catpierre. I wouldn't buy a low mileage car from someone that uses it at the track or drags every weekend. I  have a saying, "Never buy a snowmachine from someone in the Arctic and never buy a boat from Florida." For anyone looking to buy a watercraft I strongly suggest going to iboats.com. and searching there then asking questions. Search first and if you don't find your answer then ask a specific question. There is a sticky under General Boating that is a great list of things to look for on a used boat/engine.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/general-boating-outdoors-activities/boat-topics-and-questions-not-engine-topics

Thanks Ironmaker, I will check it out. 

[Fisherman]

1 minute ago, Musky Plug said:

What does WOT stand for?

"Wide open throttle"   trying to get to your favourite spot that's about to be invaded by everyone that thinks it's their favourite spot too.

[Garnet]

compression is easy testor at prince auto $10.

Take all plugs out keep them in order.

install tester. flip safety switch so no power.

Now turn motor and the needle will go up.

Record number press button releasing pressure.

do all cylinders in order.

The rule is 10% no more.  

[Old Ironmaker]

Check compression by taking out 1 plug at a time.  Equal compression above 100 pounds per  square inch (PSI) is great. But just a single compression test doesn't determine a good engine. A good start yes. You need to also check the bottom end for metal fatigue. Best is to drain the bottom end gear lube and check for metal filings and or a milky consistency which indicates water in the gear lube. The upper vent plug is magnetic on 90% of outboards (OB) and inboard outboards (IO). Filings may be stuck on the plug, not good. Marine engines running while on a water line in a driveway is not under load. It might just sound fine but running any boat under load in the water is the best test. A marine mechanic will charge you around 100 bucks to do this and more before you buy. If a seller isn't willing to tow the boat or have a mechanic go to the boat I would run away from the deal. The best thing this mechanically challenged former Steel worker did was to take a small engine repair course. It has saved me a few grand in paying Marine dealers to do simple tasks over the years such as simple compression tests, maintenance and winterizing. "

"You don't know what ya don't know till' ya do."  JD circa 1954

Edited October 8, 2018 by Old Ironmaker

[Musky Plug]

22 hours ago, Fisherman said:

"Wide open throttle"   trying to get to your favourite spot that's about to be invaded by everyone that thinks it's their favourite spot too.

Read this and it reminded me of a girl a used to know

 

19 hours ago, Garnet said:

compression is easy testor at prince auto $10.

Take all plugs out keep them in order.

install tester. flip safety switch so no power.

Now turn motor and the needle will go up.

Record number press button releasing pressure.

do all cylinders in order.

The rule is 10% no more.  

I will have to look into this, thanks. 

 

14 hours ago, Old Ironmaker said:

Check compression by taking out 1 plug at a time.  Equal compression above 100 pounds per  square inch (PSI) is great. But just a single compression test doesn't determine a good engine. A good start yes. You need to also check the bottom end for metal fatigue. Best is to drain the bottom end gear lube and check for metal filings and or a milky consistency which indicates water in the gear lube. The upper vent plug is magnetic on 90% of outboards (OB) and inboard outboards (IO). Filings may be stuck on the plug, not good. Marine engines running while on a water line in a driveway is not under load. It might just sound fine but running any boat under load in the water is the best test. A marine mechanic will charge you around 100 bucks to do this and more before you buy. If a seller isn't willing to tow the boat or have a mechanic go to the boat I would run away from the deal. The best thing this mechanically challenged former Steel worker did was to take a small engine repair course. It has saved me a few grand in paying Marine dealers to do simple tasks over the years such as simple compression tests, maintenance and winterizing. "

"You don't know what ya don't know till' ya do."  JD circa 1954

Thanks Ironmaker. Yes I wouldn't buy a boat without taking it to a mechanic or a water test. 

[Tjames09]

15 hours ago, Old Ironmaker said:

Check compression by taking out 1 plug at a time.  Equal compression above 100 pounds per  square inch (PSI) is great. But just a single compression test doesn't determine a good engine. A good start yes. You need to also check the bottom end for metal fatigue. Best is to drain the bottom end gear lube and check for metal filings and or a milky consistency which indicates water in the gear lube. The upper vent plug is magnetic on 90% of outboards (OB) and inboard outboards (IO). Filings may be stuck on the plug, not good. Marine engines running while on a water line in a driveway is not under load. It might just sound fine but running any boat under load in the water is the best test. A marine mechanic will charge you around 100 bucks to do this and more before you buy. If a seller isn't willing to tow the boat or have a mechanic go to the boat I would run away from the deal. The best thing this mechanically challenged former Steel worker did was to take a small engine repair course. It has saved me a few grand in paying Marine dealers to do simple tasks over the years such as simple compression tests, maintenance and winterizing. "

"You don't know what ya don't know till' ya do."  JD circa 1954

I don’t know. If I was selling my boat I wouldn’t tow it at my expensive to a marine mechanic and have it left there for them to look at it. If someone wanted to bring a mechanic with them be my guest. But I wouldn’t have someone I didn’t know draining my gear oil to check things, whose replacing the oil, whose responsible for getting rid of the oil now? 

 

I wouldn’t write off a boat if someone wouldn’t drop it off at a mechanic. Boats on kijiji that are priced well get mutiple offers to view in the spring. You can’t take it a mechanic for everyone that’s tire kicking.

[Musky Plug]

48 minutes ago, Tjames09 said:

I don’t know. If I was selling my boat I wouldn’t tow it at my expensive to a marine mechanic and have it left there for them to look at it. If someone wanted to bring a mechanic with them be my guest. But I wouldn’t have someone I didn’t know draining my gear oil to check things, whose replacing the oil, whose responsible for getting rid of the oil now? 

 

I wouldn’t write off a boat if someone wouldn’t drop it off at a mechanic. Boats on kijiji that are priced well get mutiple offers to view in the spring. You can’t take it a mechanic for everyone that’s tire kicking.

I agree i wouldn't want some random trying to do these things however I'd think if you wanted to sell it then that's something that you would do? Also why would you leave it there? Wouldn't you want to see what comes of the inspection? 

 

Not taking it to a mechanic for me would be a deal breaker. That would say to me that there may be potential issues with the motor. I'm not that well versed in outboard mechanics and would prefer someone who is trained have a look, before I spend a bunch of my money on what could be someone else's problem. I agree that you can't take it to a mechanic for every potential buyer however you should be able to weed those people out and try to deal with only serious buyers. 

 

Also if you do end up taking it to a mechanic, would it not be possible to get the things that most people would want checked it writing? 

Edited October 8, 2018 by Musky Plug

[DanD]

9 minutes ago, Musky Plug said:

Also if you do end up taking it to a mechanic, would it not be possible to get the things that most people would want checked it writing? 

I agree here. If the seller is willing to have this inspection done; it would making the sale much easier. Spend a hundred bucks and tack it on the price of the rig. If the shop that's doing the inspection has a good rep; the potential buyer could go and speak to the company about their findings. Just like selling a car, have it certified and offer up all service documents you have; it'll sell twice as easy.

[grimsbylander]

Talk to the owner and work out a mutually beneficial agreement to get the motor checked out by a same-brand service dealer. No offense to anyone on here but I've yet to read instructions that are complete for a proper compression test and they're not the same for every motor! Tell the owner you'll pay for his towing costs and if you don't buy it, you'll give him the mechanics report. It's a win win.

As far as hours go, yes it depends on maintenance and ownership but also on the motor size and model. The 4 strokes are getting huge hours even in 250 class range whereas 2 strokes in the same range far short. Research the reviews on the two motors choices you have in front of you and see what you can pick up. Good luck.

[mistaredone]

I’m in the same situation but I’m looking at a fish n ski boat.  The 2005 225 I’m looking looking at has 185 hours but dealer maintained, he paid For the diagnostic report. Seems like the kinda person that’s stay on  top of things. The onther one is a 2005 Stratos 486 150 with only 50hours but they guy doesn’t know his boat and doesn’t maintain at a dealer/marina   I’m leaning towards the the 225 as crazy as that sounds sounds. EITHER way I’ll have a mechanic look at it. That’s a deal breaker for me. HAVING A hard time  WTH yhe app sFOR SOME REASON I’ll post aha in once the once worked out worked out 

[porkpie]

If the motor is a 4 stroke then 180 hours is peanuts.  Heck I hear even the opti-pops make it to 1000 hours sometimes.  A 4 stroke that is well maintained with good compression should run for 1000's of hours.  I have a zuke with 450 hours on the dial.  I've read reports of many commercial suzukis, yamahas and Hondas in excess of 6000 hours plus.  Most guys won't mind taking a boat to a marine mechanic if you are paying as that tells them your not just a tire kicker.  The exception is the spring.  I sold my last boat in the spring, and had way too many guys interested and calling/emailing me to mess around.  It sold same day to the first guy  that showed up.  You will have better negotiability in the fall.

[Mister G]

Always, I repeat ALWAYS take a used boat for a test ride

I would also mention to TEST RIDE the boat in question.......bring along a couple of heavy set buddies and FILL the livewells up to see if the boat is properly power by the outboard and not under powered.

You can take the engine to any mechanic but it's the TEST RIDE that will tell you a LOT and see if the boat leaks too.

[Garnet]

You are just starting.

You need to look  at the nuts and bolts under the cowling.

Motor work can't be done  without leaving marks.

Look at the block if you see odd bulges with spider cracks.

Same with lower unit cone.  Previous blow ups.

Get in boat and walk every inch.

Most important get under the boat.

Everything tells a story. 

[grimsbylander]

3 hours ago, porkpie said:

If the motor is a 4 stroke then 180 hours is peanuts.  Heck I hear even the opti-pops make it to 1000 hours sometimes.  A 4 stroke that is well maintained with good compression should run for 1000's of hours.  I have a zuke with 450 hours on the dial.  I've read reports of many commercial suzukis, yamahas and Hondas in excess of 6000 hours plus.  Most guys won't mind taking a boat to a marine mechanic if you are paying as that tells them your not just a tire kicker.  The exception is the spring.  I sold my last boat in the spring, and had way too many guys interested and calling/emailing me to mess around.  It sold same day to the first guy  that showed up.  You will have better negotiability in the fall.

That Suzuki @ 450 hours is almost broken in!! lol Great motors.

[Chris J]

I would not purchase a boat based on an hour meter or a printout, there is a lot more to it than that.  Some good advice in here as to what to look for but hours shouldn't be make or break.  

[Tjames09]

I agree with the comments above. I think you can see a lot of things visually yourself or with a good water test. with a good visual check everything in all the compartments, everything underneath you don't initially see. Check for mold, cracks, things rescrewed together. Test all the wood by walking and seeing if there are soft spots. I mean you can tell if a boat is cared for pretty quickly with a visual inspection. When I bought my boat I looked at A LOT of boats. I could tell instantly if a boat is cared for or not. Boats show weathering pretty badly when left to the elements and not cared for, stored properly etc. 

After a good visual inspection and good long water test is a must. Test everything on the water test to. Test the live wells, test trolling motor, test the lights, test it all. Don't rush. 

 

I think those things will go a lot more than hours on a motor.