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Posted

I need to put new line on my reels and was just wondering what type of line do you use?

I have always just uses Mono, its cheap and it's been around forever but a lot of people I know keep telling my to switch to fluorocarbon.

They say fluorocarbon keeps it strength better, sinks better, does not absorb water and is nearly invisible and that makes it better. But it's also 5x more expensive.

Some articles I have read say go with mono with a 36 inch fluorocarbon leader.

 

I fish pike,walleye and bass mostly. I don't think braid is needed for anything I fish. Is fluoro worth the extra cost or is it just another hyped up product?

Posted

I use regular power pro braid on every setup i have followed by a floro or wire leader depending on what im fishing for.

Posted (edited)

Last year I tried fluoro on my spinning reels. Kept it on for one outing then went back to braided line and fluoro leaders. Can't stand the fluoro coming off the spool if you don't have a tension on the line at all times.

 

I use mono only on my crankbait and spinnerbait combos.

Edited by wallyboss
Posted (edited)

Power pro and 10lb trilene XL for almost everything. I do use fluorocarbon leader on the power pro if the water is clearer. I don't use fluoro to fill spools. I tried it once and it was more trouble than it's worth to me.

Edited by porkpie
Posted

I use regular power pro braid on every setup i have followed by a floro or wire leader depending on what im fishing for.

 

What he said!

 

Can't beat braid set-ups for sensitivity, castability and longevity. When considering expense, consider you'll be buying mono and floro that much more often.

Posted

This is all I use...

 

1) straight braid at 50lb or 65lb - flipping heavy cover - baitcaster

2) straight braid at 20lb - sharpie marker bottom 4' - spinnerbaits/chatterbait type - baitcaster

3) braid with fluoro leader - spinning or baitcaster - fluoro 6/8lb spinning, 15lb baitcaster

4) straight mono - baitcaster - topwater baits only - 15lb

5) straight fluoro - never

Posted

This is truly a chevy vs ford thing but you are missing out by only using mono. I do not use a lot of flouro either though but it does have its purpose.

 

Flouro does sink while mono floats and it does not absorb water (I don't think mono does either though). As for keeping its strength, that is dependant on what happens to it. Flouro will be more abrasion resistant to things like rocks and teeth but if you get a kink in it, you will lose close to half of the tensile strength listed. It is also more picky with how you tie your knots so make sure to lubricate them well before cinching. The friction of the line rubbing together causes enough heat to reduce the strength of the knot so this is key. Also, use a line conditioner with each use to make it more manageable. it does make a huge difference.

 

With that out of the way, I tried using more flouro and just can't do it. It's just not as manageable even with conditioners to make it worth while in all circumstances. I use straight flouro for crank baits as it has the sinking advantage and I use a leader for wacky rigs or drop shot. Out of the 10 rods I have, 7 have braid, 2 have mono (spinnerbaits and a topwater/crankbait rod) and 1 has straight flouro (strictly cranking). I will tie on a 5-10 foot flouro leader depending on what I am doing with the braid sometimes though.

 

The only way to determine what is right for you is to try them out.

Posted (edited)

Pp mainline.

 

I usually just run it straight.

 

I do use fluorocarbon leaders sometimes

 

 

I cannot use mono unless I wanna be frustrated in my casting and miss bites all day long. I HATE MONO!

 

Oh I like nanofil too

Edited by manitoubass2
Posted

20lb power pro to a lead of flurocarbon for basically everything except top water. Once Im throwing top water its a lead of mono.

 

Depending on application im either tying the two lines together with a uni knot or most of the time just simply tying both ends to a raven xxxs swivel so that I can tie directly to the lure and avoid line twist.

 

I really really dislike using snaps at the lure for anything except top waters.

Posted

Fluorocarbon as a main line is horrible. Not worth the cost and headache - at least, that's my experience.

 

There is nothing wrong with mono at all. Floating and stretching are important for a lot of fishing styles and not that much of disadvantage for most others.

 

The advantage of a superline is no stretch = more sensitivity. If you fish jigs, shaky head, drop shot or other finesse methods, it might be an improvement for you. It also lasts longer. So, the up front added cost balances out and might end up being cheaper in the long run. That being said, the really thin diameter lines are a PITA if you ask me. I don't go below 15lb test braid on spinning gear. All braid I run to a fluorocarbon leader. That maintains the no stretch aspect and if I need to, I can break it. I've also use hybrid lines as leaders. Also, as someone else mentioned, if you need some stretch it's not a bad choice to stick with mono, which some do for trolling. It's mainly for the shock absorption, which allows a better hook set. I suppose you could use braid with a long mono leader as well.

 

Mono to fluorocarbon. leader I don't really see any advantage. The whole "invisible under water" claim is bogus from the "research" articles I've read.

 

Hybrid (fluoro coated mono) lines are not too bad. I like them, but they vary a lot and you'd have to experiment to find which one you like. The P-Line Floroclear wasn't too bad, but I didn't like the 5lb test. Yo-Zuri was decent too, but had some memory issues.

Posted

Berkley Crystal on the spinning gear, Power Pro and Suffix on the baitcast set ups. Most have flouro leaders. Only mono is on the walleye trolling rods, the pier caster and catfish set ups and of course panfish set ups.

Posted

I use Power Pro for anything other than panfish. Feels super strong and it's easy to tell if the line is frayed.

 

Also, I'm probably the only one who cares about this but I find tying knots with braided line is much easier & faster than mono.

Posted (edited)

Bait casting reels - 15-20lb PP

Float reels - 6lb Nano, 10lb Fireline Crystal (Depending on season)

Salmon gear - 20lb Big game for the rigger rods, 65lb PP for the dispy rods

Spinning gear - 6lb Nano (Depending on what I'm fishing), 4lb mono (Small trout setup) 6lb Fireline Crystal, 12lb PP.

 

No flouro mainlines, I hate the stuff.

Edited by BillM
Posted (edited)

lately its been a wf 5 f with a 5x tippet....FML why must there be a totally different code! as if fishing wasnt hard enough!

Edited by AKRISONER
Posted

Well, I had Floro on my spinning outfit for a couple of years. i used it all year round (Seagar sp) and as cold as -30. I never had a problem with it. It might have been that it was 6lb test and therefore more "subtle" then the thicker stuff, but it worked great for me.

HH

Posted

So for the ones who are using a braid with a fluoro leader how are you connecting them? Uni knot, surgeon's knot, directly to a swivel?

How long of a leader do you use?

 

Sorry for so many questions, just always looking for advice to try and better my fishing game!

Posted (edited)

Depends on what you're fishing for but I like to use XXXS barrel swivels to connect flouro (or mono leader) to braid.

 

s-l1000.jpg

Edited by BillM
Posted

Depends on what you're fishing for but I like to use XXXS barrel swivels to connect flouro (or mono leader) to braid.

 

s-l1000.jpg

bill put me on these a few years back....they rule and now my friends steal them from me all the time.

Posted

So for the ones who are using a braid with a fluoro leader how are you connecting them? Uni knot, surgeon's knot, directly to a swivel?

How long of a leader do you use?

 

Sorry for so many questions, just always looking for advice to try and better my fishing game!

 

Double-Uni. May switch to the FG knot once I get it to work, lol. Micro-swivel is good too, but I don't find it any easier or better than the double-uni.

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