Transom saver

[boombap]

Hello everyone.

 

I have a 14ft aluminum boat with a 48inch beam, I trailer it 150+ km's pretty much every weekend. I run a 1992 merc 9.9 on it but I always take it off when I'm towing the boat. My transom is pretty strong, I redid it myself using 3/4 in marine ply sealed with 3 coats of 2 part epoxy. One is on the inside of the hull and the other on the outside pinching the aluminum with SS bolts. So give or take 1.5in total transom thickness.

 

Do I need a transom saver? Do you think my transom is strong enough to take the beating of all that towing? I imagine hitting pot holes, speed bumps ect will bounce the motor around quite a bit. I'm getting sick and tired of always pulling off the motor.

[Terry]

does the motor sit strait up and down or does it sit on an angle while transporting

[Sinker]

I've owned the same boat for 20yrs. Never used a transom saver, and I tow with my motor tilted all the way up. I think you'll be fine!

 

S.

[Bondar]

It certainly wouldn't hurt it if you did have one for what they cost

[boombap]

Your right they dont cost much, it's just a matter of if I need one or not. I mean when do you know you NEED one?

 

I think I would have to tilt the motor up while towing, I imagine it would swing left and right while making turns if it wasn't tilted up. Am I wrong?

[lookinforwalleye]

Can't see a 9.9 needing a transom saver just leave it in the down position and tie it off if it wants to move.

Can't remember ever seeing a transom saver on a small motor.

[aplumma]

You usually trailer with the motor up on it's blocks to prevent the skeg and lower end from bottoming out. I use a transom saver always even the boat that is a jet drive that is level with the bottom of the boat. The motors are a 60 hp and a 150 hp so it is needed. A 9.9 straight up and down tied off from swinging does not put much of a load on the transom.

 

 

Art

[Rizzo]

I had a small motor like that for years and never used a transom saver. No problems.

[davey buoy]

Had a small motor for years on a tinny,strap it as said in the down position,good to go!

[boombap]

That would be my next concern, is bottoming out. I have a shallow boat and the motor hangs pretty low. Would tilting it up be a bad idea?

[Freshtrax]

Here we go again........

[aplumma]

Tilted and use a transom saver. You are going from a shearing force ( very strong) with the motor straight up and down to a fulcrum force with a levered advantage.

 

 

Art

[wallyboss]

If you tilt it up and use a ratchet strap ypu won't have any issues. It's the bouncing that could damage the boat.

[Fisherman]

Tilted and use a transom saver. You are going from a shearing force ( very strong) with the motor straight up and down to a fulcrum force with a levered advantage.

 

 

Art

Now that's a damm good explanation.

[boombap]

Good stuff guys, thanks for the help.

[lookinforwalleye]

Tilted and use a transom saver. You are going from a shearing force ( very strong) with the motor straight up and down to a fulcrum force with a levered advantage.

 

 

Art

Ya what he said......

[glen]

Put motor in the position you are going to use when trailering.

Push on motor up and down. Is there any movement in the transom or does it seem rock solid? If you are flexing any aliminium you need a transom saver.

Edited June 11, 2013 by glen

[Roe Bag]

Hello everyone.

 

I have a 14ft aluminum boat with a 48inch beam, I trailer it 150+ km's pretty much every weekend. I run a 1992 merc 9.9 on it but I always take it off when I'm towing the boat. My transom is pretty strong, I redid it myself using 3/4 in marine ply sealed with 3 coats of 2 part epoxy. One is on the inside of the hull and the other on the outside pinching the aluminum with SS bolts. So give or take 1.5in total transom thickness.

 

Do I need a transom saver? Do you think my transom is strong enough to take the beating of all that towing? I imagine hitting pot holes, speed bumps ect will bounce the motor around quite a bit. I'm getting sick and tired of always pulling off the motor.

 

 

If you check any outboard manual they state that an outboard should be trailered in the upright or running position. If there is insufficient ground clearance between the bottom of the skeg and roadsurfaces, then the motor should be tilted and supported with a transom saver. The suspension travel on most trailer (unless overloaded with camping gear etc.) is limited by the distance of the top of the tires and the inside of the fenders. Usually ony about 4 inches. If you more than 4 inches of ground clearance there is no need to tilt the motor. And, no need for a transom saver.

In all my years I have always trailered in the upright position. Never used a transom saver and never had an issue. With the advent of low slung trailers and monster motors, transom savers have become a must. For a 14' tinner with a 9.9 there really is no need. For added piece of mind, bolt the motor to the transom. That way if the thumb srews vibrate loose the motor can't go anywhere.

[misfish]

If you check any outboard manual they state that an outboard should be trailered in the upright or running position. If there is insufficient ground clearance between the bottom of the skeg and roadsurfaces, then the motor should be tilted and supported with a transom saver. The suspension travel on most trailer (unless overloaded with camping gear etc.) is limited by the distance of the top of the tires and the inside of the fenders. Usually ony about 4 inches. If you more than 4 inches of ground clearance there is no need to tilt the motor. And, no need for a transom saver.

In all my years I have always trailered in the upright position. Never used a transom saver and never had an issue. With the advent of low slung trailers and monster motors, transom savers have become a must. For a 14' tinner with a 9.9 there really is no need. For added piece of mind, bolt the motor to the transom. That way if the thumb srews vibrate loose the motor can't go anywhere.