wormdunker Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 I have a minor water leak in my 14' Lund right where the transom meets the hull. Saturday I fished Erie, noticed a small amount of water seeping in at the floor. Saturday evening I dried it out untill it was bone dry. Sunday morning I'm back on the water watching very carefully where the water is coming in. So Monday I'm at CTC, purchased an epoxy/aluminum putty stick called Starbrite. You break off a small piece, knead it in your hands & I pushed the product into the small crevices from outside of the transom. I found out later that this epoxy dries rock hard. With some vibration of my boat hitting waves & vibration from the motor I feel the starbrite is going to crack. I feel I'm going to need a rubberized pliable sealer. I looked at the 3M sealers they have but the instructions stated not to be used below the water line?? Or are they referring to a situation where the boat is in the water 24/7? I also looked at the marine Goop. I've used Goop for other repairs & found it to be quite good. What are your suggestions guys? Have you ever used the Starbrite epoxy stick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Ironmaker Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 We will talk when you get back. You have a PM. In the mean time take a small core sample from a few spots in the transom, bottom, middle and top. Fill with 3M 5400 sealant. Or better yet bring the boat out to the shop when you get back from Atherly. If you are home call me I'm up and at em. JD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch01 Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 I used g-flex (http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-system--g-flex-650-k-aluminum-boat-repair-kit--9223140) to fix my transom and it's held up real well so far. Easy to work with and I've heard nothing but good reviews. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wormdunker Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Thanx Ironmaker, but my transom is all aluminum. The leak is right along the seam/joint where the horizontal sheet of aluminum of the hull overlaps the vertical piece of the transom. There is a tiny opening which would require the sealant to be pushed in with a putty knife or similar tool. Dutch the gflex looks like it would work in my situation. Thanx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Ironmaker Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 All aluminum. I thought it would have a sheet of marine grade ply sandwiched in al. I'm surprised it has an even small leak. That is a quality boat you have. Lt me ask the Boat Whisperer what he would use, I'll call you later. Actually we are headed to the Marina in an hour and I'll ask there too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch01 Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Thanx Ironmaker, but my transom is all aluminum. The leak is right along the seam/joint where the horizontal sheet of aluminum of the hull overlaps the vertical piece of the transom. There is a tiny opening which would require the sealant to be pushed in with a putty knife or similar tool. Dutch the gflex looks like it would work in my situation. Thanx My leak was in the same spot I think, it was split about 6 inches long and almost a quarter inch wide right where bottom of the transom meets the bottom of the hull, dead in the center of the boat. I used the powdered filler to make the gflex thick and just stuffed the split with it and then used the included putty knife to smooth it out. It was actually really easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HTHM Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Check your livewell plumbing as well, it is one of the most common sources of leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dara Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 My leak was in the same spot I think, it was split about 6 inches long and almost a quarter inch wide right where bottom of the transom meets the bottom of the hull, dead in the center of the boat. I used the powdered filler to make the gflex thick and just stuffed the split with it and then used the included putty knife to smooth it out. It was actually really easy. That one sounds like a welding job to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch01 Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 (edited) It was on the seam where the two pieces of metal meet. A few rivets had stretched to allow the gap. I just filled the seam with gflex. It's a cheap fix but it works. From what I've heard/been told, welding aluminum, especially old aluminum, often creates more problems than it fixes. I fixed mine last spring and fished all summer, even in rough water, and it's held up just fine. Edited April 19, 2016 by Dutch01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplumma Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 I would have a shop TIG weld it and be done with it. The issue of sealing a crack does not prevent it from spreading nor strengthen the area that is stressed past it's holding point. Art Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dara Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 It was on the seam where the two pieces of metal meet. A few rivets had stretched to allow the gap. I just filled the seam with gflex. It's a cheap fix but it works. From what I've heard/been told, welding aluminum, especially old aluminum, often creates more problems than it fixes. I fixed mine last spring and fished all summer, even in rough water, and it's held up just fine. OK, loose rivets is one thing, cracked aluminum is another...sounded like you cracked the bend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch01 Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 It is what it is, it's done. But several shops told me if you weld aluminum wrong it gets brittle and is f'd for good. Gflex is an an elastomeric adhesive epoxy. As an adhesive epoxy, it does add structural strength. because it is elastomeric, it flexes with the hull. It is designed specifically for fixing aluminum boats. I'm happy with it for $35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch01 Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 (edited) OK, loose rivets is one thing, cracked aluminum is another...sounded like you cracked the bend It was cracked, it's really hard to explain, a picture would be worth a thousand words right about now. The vertical metal from the transom folds inside the hull at bottom, and the folded part of transom is riveted to the bottom hull. There is a split, but it's on the seam. I'll try to find a picture when I get home. Edited April 19, 2016 by Dutch01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
floater Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 I just finished fixing the exact leak on my Sylvan Troller. I drilled out the 115 rivets and replaced the Butyl two sided tape and riveted it with aluminum aircraft rivets. Worked great but took a couple of days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkrp Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Get some PS 890 fuel tank sealant from an Aircraft supply store, clean out the area with some acetone or mek apply the sealant and you are good to go. I would do the whole seam around the transom as this sealant is not cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Doesn't anybody watch the commercials on the teevee anymore? If you can make an airboat out of screens and the bottom of a tin boat with a screen door....... https://www.getflexseal.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wormdunker Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Thanx for the info guys. I've applied the epoxy, going to sand it to make a little prettier. Going to launch it again tomorrow at Orillia for the perch festival. I'll let you know the result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bass Tard Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Came in here to mention G-flex. Stuff is amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 (edited) Remember welding aluminum = 1/2 the original strength if you don't heat treat it again. WKRP... if you could only find it under 890 anymore.. LOL.. I've lost track myself as to whom owns sealpack, PRC.. etc these days and what product number it goes by, but it's about $100 a quart now. I have a fridge full of old quarts that people could borrow, or you can just walk into Rona and buy some Sikfaflex Sealant. It'll do the job as well with proper prep. Real question is why it started leaking. Crack or loose rivets. Not fixing either is just a recipe for more work later. Edited April 20, 2016 by irishfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joeytier Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 Goop it up with this miracle in a can! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch01 Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 Found a picture: G-Flex saved the day in my eyes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FishAbout Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 If you push on the motor does the transom move. If so the wood could be rotten causing the aluminum to flex to much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wormdunker Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 Thanx for the pic Dutch. My seam looks exactly like that. I used the Star Brite as stated earlier - my concern is that it is not flexible so it may crack again. If it leaks after todays trip on the water I'll go to plan B. The gflex as you suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave524 Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 That area is hidden by the knee brace inside, could maybe the rivets for the knee brace be leaking on the bottom and not the seam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Ironmaker Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 A stainless screw at each and of the crack and fill with JB Weld. That stuff is amazing. Buddy has a 5LT Mercruiser that had a large crack in the intake manifold that was filled with JB Weld 4 years ago, it is still holding. I didn't think of it until "The Boat Whisperer" told you to do that on the phone yesterday. Wayne, do you think that is a good fix? I always bow to your expertise when it comes to aluminum repairs as well as most everything metal related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now