minor leak in my Lund

[irishfield]

Don't understand what the SS screws are for OI.. and any that have been here any length of time know I'm "go big or go home" when it comes to repairs.

 

Why did it crack?.. where did it crack.. is it actually cracked... is it a few rivets that had too small of a shop head and they pulled through and let the hull skin drop away from the mating flange? I'd need to see it before offering a correct repair, but I can tell you with 100% certainty that it wouldn't include any welding.

Edited April 20, 2016 by irishfield

[wallyboss]

If you are not sure where it leaks from , put some water into the boat it might be easier to spot where it's coming out of ??

[aplumma]

Welding by a professional is not that scary most boats are 5000 or 6000 series aluminum which has at a starting point of T5. Raising the temperature above 400 F will return it to a T1 or with excessive heat T0 condition but just air cooling it will return to a T4 which is the same rating as all of the other welds on the boat. The only way to get a T5 again is to kiln the weld which no boat manufacture will do. Most welds as Wayne pointed out will crack next to the weld not on the weld. With the use of resins and epoxies it generally does not make a stronger joint by using a bonding agent on the outside of a fault rather than a molecular bond such as aluminum liquefied with a metal compatable 5356 rod and the correct heat settings on a quality machine.

 

 

Art

[wormdunker]

wallyboss - I did that procedure but it did not leak onto my drive way. My concrete drive was bone dry at the time. I applied the star brite epoxy, allowed it to cure for over 24 hours, then fished the Orillia perch festival for 2 full days with my boat in the water for more than 30 hours continuously. My boat was dry, so I'm happy with the epoxy.

[Old Ironmaker]

Where's the fish report?