If you extend the sides of the box a bit to fit snugly within the framework of the front rack, then it won't move side to side, front to back. Then get the ratchet strap with rubber coated hooks to hold it down.
I've still got my stupid phone, no internet or email. On the rogers pay as you go plan, $20 per month gives me a lot of text time and really low rate long distance which I only use in summer at the camp.
Annually at the end of the season. Makes no sense to me to possibly have water infiltration sitting inside the hub and rusting the heck out of bearings and races during the off season. Problem solved before it becomes one.
No, they rarely carry anything over 3/4 inch. Unless you want to laminate a couple of 3/4 planks together, that may well work too. Check the thickness of your transom, some run from about 1 inch to 1 and a half.
Wet wood is no good. If it's the transom in the boat in your avatar it won't be too difficult. Take off the corners, motor, top aluminum cap over the rail and any other things like tie downs. The wood interior should come straight up. I did a couple of aluminum transoms in solid 1 inch maple and oak soaked in Thompsons water seal.
They may, but if they're lug centric instead of hub centric then they have to use an adapter plate, most of which don't have the remotest clue how to use. If they're hub centric, no problem.
Run a chalk line across the tread in a few places, then drive down the road for a 1/4 mile and see where the chalk is missing, underinflated, no chalk on the edges, overinflated, no chalk in the center. A crude method but it works.