Electric Motor Canoe Set Ups - What's yours look like?

[Governator]

Hey Guys, been a while.

 

I'm picking up a Sportspal canoe this weekend with the intention of adding a motor to it in the near future (probably 30lb thrust range).

 

Anyway, curious what your side mounts look like (DIY guys?), where you store the battery and is it ok for it be exposed to any water or does it need to be in a box?

 

Thanks

[Joeytier]

Spent many hundreds of hrs in a sportspal with an electric trolling motor. Battery definitely doesn't need to be covered, just more of a pain to bring a case with it. If we were two in a canoe the battery went under the seat but on solo missions I would push it as far up towards the middle as the cables would allow and added some rocks in the bow.

 

Depending on what you plan on doing with it, a gas motor may be a better option.

[PickerelHunter]

I've gone with both, electric and gas in the past. Both have their pro's and cons.

 

For the electric, go with what Joeytier said....I have mine in a battery case, as well as extra long cables for front canoe placement of battery. In terms of the actual side mount, it was very simple. Will take you a few minutes and cost very little. The canoe at the moment is buried under the deck but for now take a look at this video, I basically followed this but I used 2x4 for all pieces. Has held up really well for over 5 years now.

 

[pics]

Sportspal has a motor mount that they sell with a canoe but I find them a little weak for my 2hp . I use an aftermarket mount that's a little heavier to carry but it's sturdy.. I can't post pictures right now though. If I was going to put an electric motor on I wouldn't use a box for the battery.

Edited June 14, 2017 by pics

[leaf4]

I had a 16' scanoe, would definitely recommend a 55lb thrust or better... Windy days with 2 people in the boat was not the most fun I've ever had lol

 

Also never used a battery case/cover not a problem

Edited June 14, 2017 by Lucas F

[porkpie]

I have the wide transom 14 foot sportspal. I'D definitely take the above advice. I have a 50lb thrust Minnkota, and when it's windy and you have two guys in the canoe it makes a difference. I also have a 3.5hp outboard. It will darn near plane it out. If you are buying new I'd look at a wide transom rather than a pointed end boat. Especially if you intend to use it mainly with a motor.

[BillM]

Yup, you want a squareback for sure, makes life a lot easier if there's going to be a motor strapped to it all the time.

[Governator]

Thanks a lot guys, great info here.

 

What about paddling in a squareback? Is that difficult? Probably comparable to the average 12' aluminum?

 

I figured the double pointed would give me the flexibility of fishing the small lakes I hit and still be able to easily paddle compared to a wide transom. Even though it'll mostly be used with a motor I wouldn't mind the occasional short canoe trip to Algonquin or Temagami. Not sure how the wide transom handles for paddling but I've also gotten myself in to many scenarios where the motor broke down, out of gas across a lake (or at a campsite) that we've had to paddle our way back (sometimes in bad weather) which isn't fun but I think should be easier in a pointed canoe especially when if I'm solo.

Edited June 14, 2017 by Governator

[BillM]

I've paddled a lot of squarebacks, sure it's not the ideal situation, but it's not the worst either.

[porkpie]

They actually row ok believe it or not, and sportspal sets them up for that. No sportspal that I've ever met has paddled very well, that includes my buddies old double ender that we used to duck hunt out of. They are lightweight, easily repairable and pretty stable rigs. I enjoyed fishing and even hunting a couple of times out of mine last season. I only use a motor, either electric or gas, but I did test out the oar situation and it works well enough!

Edited June 14, 2017 by porkpie

[SirCranksalot]

A couple of comments-

 

When I went solo using a motor I added extensions to the lead so I could put the battery up front for ballast.

 

Don't use rocks for ballast. Use a big jug/pail completely full of water to avoid sloshing. Water, unlike rocks, are neutral buoyancy and won't sink your boat in a mishap. A big block of wood might be even better.

Edited June 14, 2017 by SirCranksaLot

[leaf4]

Another tip for spending more than say 2 hours in it, is install seats. Your knees and back will thank you!

 

Here's what my scanoe looked like.

 

$30 per seat I spent

 

 

[Henricus]

X2 on rowing a Sportspal. If solo, it is considerably easier - especially in wind - and extends your range.

[PickerelHunter]

Awesome setup!!

 

Another tip for spending more than say 2 hours in it, is install seats. Your knees and back will thank you!

Here's what my scanoe looked like.

$30 per seat I spent

[Old Ironmaker]

My buddy had a nice 18' Sportpal with a flat transom. He did try a 30LB electric but it wasn't enough to move the bigger canoe well and found himself in full throttle too much which killed the 12V too quickly. He went to a 55lb Motorguide and even though 24V the batteries would last longer with the 2 of us at around 440 lbs total weight plus stuff including an extra 100 pound battery. The batteries lasted longer than my knees and back.

 

If you are going to do this go with more thrust than 30 for sure. And I would take the construction hints from the guy in the video with a grain of salt. I had to laugh when he said the wood only gets wet when he uses the canoe so no wood treatment necessary. Then he says use washers if you want. OK, just bring an adjustable. I always spend the few bucks extra for stainless hardware when it comes to the boat. Nothing more frustrating tome than to see a nice job and rusting hardware. Trex decking cut to size might be something to use rather than lumber. 2 pieces of Trex laminated together would be very stable and look clean. I think they are 1/2" or 5/4 thick.

Edited June 14, 2017 by Old Ironmaker

[EC1]

I own the 14' sportspal with a transom back which was modified by one of the members of this forum - can't remember who.

In the back, you can put a 2hp to hit about 10km/h which isn't bad. You can go through 10k zones at full throttle lol.

 

In the front, I bought one of those BPS Trolling motor mounts and just clamp it across the front to have a tiller bow mount trolling motor. This way, you actually have a lot more control than the trolling in the back. Battery goes behind the front row of seats. I did wear out the front a little bit doing this, but i don't see it breaking anytime soon.

 

http://m.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Canoe-Motor-Mount/product/67133/

Edited June 14, 2017 by EasyFish

[smithy97]

Here's my canoe setup. 2.5hp suzuki, 16' square stern sportspal. Great for my wife and I. On solo trips I use a wooden box that sits over the front seat that I built, where I can store tackle boxes, and the portable fish finder. Paddling is ok, not great. The little motor works great, and you don't have to worry about lugging around a battery. Caught my first muskie out of this rig!

[Old Ironmaker]

All nice set ups. I really like the rod holders Smithy. Amazing what one can do with some plumbing piping.

 

Lucas I told you that I grew up in the same story and a half style home in Hammertown when you showed pics when you did a reno a few years ago. They must have built a few thousand on the mountain and the east end at the end of WW2.

 

Not too top heavy with the seats in the canoe Lucas? How's the new place?

Edited June 15, 2017 by Old Ironmaker

[smitty55]

 

Here's my canoe setup. 2.5hp suzuki, 16' square stern sportspal. Great for my wife and I. On solo trips I use a wooden box that sits over the front seat that I built, where I can store tackle boxes, and the portable fish finder. Paddling is ok, not great. The little motor works great, and you don't have to worry about lugging around a battery. Caught my first muskie out of this rig!

 

Yea I like those rod holders too. I have the 12ft transom model with an old 1.5hp Johnson and that would be handy. So how did you secure the two strips of 2x? to the canoe? It's not like the walls are very thick. Tks

 

Cheers

[smithy97]

Yup I screwed through the walls of the canoe with deck screws, dipping them in silicone first. Was hesitant to screw through the walls but it's worked out fine.

[Old Ironmaker]

If you guys are ever to screw or glue into anything and want it to stay there use 3M4200, if you never want it to come out use 3M 5200.

Edited June 15, 2017 by Old Ironmaker

[Governator]

So many good tips and set ups thanks everyone. Haven't been online much lately but I love this community. My deal for the boat fell through (wasn't buying new) but will get one as soon as possible and report back with my setup.

 

Cheers

[pics]

I love my sportspal.. I just patched up a few leaks and it's ready to go. Mine has 2 pointed ends which is fine with a good motor mount. The 2hp Yamaha is nice and light so it doesn't cause the canoe to tilt too much.. If it was up to me I would have a wide transom as well and use whatever one works best for where I am going to fish.. I definitely wouldn't want to carry a wide transom very far through the woods.. The only mod I am plan on doing this year is to add a removable carrying yoke..

[Governator]

FYI I'm getting a 14' Square Stern. I think it's the perfect combination of length for space, paddling ability and easy mount for motor. 44lbs holds 850 sounds nice too.

[Weeds]

I've got a 14 foot sportspal square stern and while I think it's cool I'd say it paddles quite poorly. I have to admit I am an inexperienced paddler though, I have to keep switching from side to side to get it to track straight. Any kind of semi strong breeze is a real pain in the ass in a sportspal. With a trolling motor it's pretty good though.