Freshtrax Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 I wasn't trying to put what you did down , just wanted to make sure you were informed.
Steve Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 do it right. $100 is nothing if your planning on keeping the boat for another 10 years.
fish_fishburn Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 Wrap it up and go fishing. The floor will be awesome.
HTHM Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 As others have suggested, coat the underside with fiberglass and resin to act as both a sealer and a barrier from the corrosive action of the PT wood.
Mister G Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 Since you already have the pressure treated wood I would just isolated the contact points using some FREE material you probably already have laying around your house, plastic.......old milk containers or other plastic type bottles, containers placed between the wood and support brackets will out last the boat. I'm guessing you don't store this boat inside and that's why the floor rotted. Have you taken a closer look at the transom as that is usually the next thing to go on a aluminum boat that is stored outside. This new floor will easily outlast that transom and by then you might be in the market for a NEW fishing machine.
porkpie Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 I think ventilation is the key. The guy who put floor vents in, that was a great idea. We got soaked in the boat on Wednesday, and yesterday I yanked the cover off and opened all the hatches to make sure it dried. I'm thinking of redoing the boat I just bought in vinyl eventually. There is nothing wrong with the carpet now, so no rush but If I do it I'll definately install a couple of vents. Looking forward to seeing the final product!
mike rousseau Posted April 28, 2015 Author Report Posted April 28, 2015 Jobs done I undead up staying with the pressure treated... I coated it in urithane and sprayed the boat with a rubber spray... So I guess time will tell if that was a good move or not... The pics I have don't have the seats in yet but I got them in yesterday... I was able to move the seats to a WAY better location... New tillers are longer then old... Now my tiller won't hit my seat... Evrything went very well and the results were better then expected.... Used vinyl and glue from cabelas... After glueing we wrapped the vinyl around 4-6 inches all the way around and stapled it underneath...
Mister G Posted April 28, 2015 Report Posted April 28, 2015 Looks like you were busier then a 2 peckered billy goat......nice job. Now go catch a fish
Sinker Posted April 28, 2015 Report Posted April 28, 2015 Nice! Love the tiller boats. Look at all that room to fish!! Nice job. You won't have any issues with the PT, don't worry. S.
bare foot wader Posted April 28, 2015 Report Posted April 28, 2015 looks sharp! well done with regards to the foam, my boat has taken on a lot water before I installed a float switch on the bilge pump...I'm planning to redo my floors soon, how do you test the foam? I would imagine the surface would appear dry, do you drill to the center to check for moisture? I think pouring foam might be a smarter idea for my boat
aplumma Posted April 28, 2015 Report Posted April 28, 2015 now install a console and go fishing lol. Art
mike rousseau Posted April 28, 2015 Author Report Posted April 28, 2015 I could see the water saturation... The bottom inch or so at the back couple feet of the boat was saturated... That's good enough for me., I left it in I had to cut some foam for mods and it was bone dry...
Paudash Posted April 29, 2015 Report Posted April 29, 2015 very well done, I think someone is going to get a few request for help
Old Ironmaker Posted April 29, 2015 Report Posted April 29, 2015 You have done a wonderful job Mike, a very professional finish. It looks like you can have a dance in the boat and still have plenty of room to fish. Someone mentioned removing the factory foam and leaving it out. I am a firm believer that the foam not only provides floatation it acts as a stiffener for the hull as well as a shock absorber for a stable quieter ride and lessens vibrations that may loosen rivets over time. It can take in many hundreds of pounds of water even with closed cell isostyrene, granted, but given enough time and ample ventilation it will dry out. If time is an issue the foam can be removed and the foam replaced. I would not remove it without replacing it. Removing wet foam is no easy task though.
John Bacon Posted April 30, 2015 Report Posted April 30, 2015 (edited) looks sharp! well done with regards to the foam, my boat has taken on a lot water before I installed a float switch on the bilge pump...I'm planning to redo my floors soon, how do you test the foam? I would imagine the surface would appear dry, do you drill to the center to check for moisture? I think pouring foam might be a smarter idea for my boat You could chip of a piece and see if it floats. I know I had a piece of foam come loose and end up in the bilge; it sank. My whole boat sank shortly after that. I would definitely want some foam or other floatation in there. Hopefully you never need it. But if you do, you (and your family) will be glad it it there. If you are replacing the foam, you could consider adding empty two liter pop bottles with the caps on. Edited April 30, 2015 by JohnBacon
Freshtrax Posted April 30, 2015 Report Posted April 30, 2015 (edited) For anyone redoing theirs in the futurePool noodles make great floatations and you can get em at the dollar store! They can also be cut to shape . Edited April 30, 2015 by Freshtrax
Mister G Posted April 30, 2015 Report Posted April 30, 2015 For anyone redoing theirs in the futurePool noodles make great floatations and you can get em at the dollar store! They can also be cut to shape . GREAT idea ! ! !
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