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Posted

I have always fished mainline to lure/bait with never any issues. i think it is time to start using some leaders, how long of a fluoro leader is reccomended for spinning and casting setups?

Posted

if im tying direct to the hook, i usually use a little bit longer leader about 36" in case i need to re-tie i can do so without having to replace the leader.

 

if im using it with a swivel & snap, ill use anywhere from 12" - 24"

Posted

What Boss said..

 

Sometimes I will go ever long. Ice fishing, I have run up to 6' leaders... They will last several outings, with out having to re-tie my double uni...

Posted

Some line to line knots go through the eyelets better than others

 

For me leader length is dependent on water clarity and depth

 

And fast moving bait (crank spinner bait) doesn't need a leader

 

Slow techniques I use a leader the length of the rod. And for really clear water. Flouro/mono mainline over braid with a leader

 

For a knot I use a triple Sergeon knot. Quick simple and very strong

Posted

i use uni to uni knot and I don't find it to get hung up on the eyelets. I find they are one of the strongest line to line knots but they are also a bit bigger (if you are worried about the knot hitting the eyelet. I suggest you learn 2-3 line to line knots and see what you like best.

Posted

sounds good. time to dowload the app!

I am using 12lb Nanofil on my spinning and 20lb Super Slick 8 on the caster.....does the line material affect the knot performance?

Posted

As many others do as well, I use leaders for 2 reasons, but not always simultaneously.

 

Stealth - Clear water, finiky fishes, slow, natural presentations

 

Durability/ abrasion resistant- toothy fishes, rocks, zebra mussels

 

Braid is very strong, but does not hold up to teeth very well compared to similar lb test mono, let alone flouro.

Posted

thanks for the replies.

Do the line to line knots hang up on the eyelets?

Micro guides and line to line knots don't go well together in my experience.

Posted

The weakest part of the set-up for tying a leader to braid is the knot.

 

We all know all hell breaks loose when you get the fish beside the boat - If your leaders are 12"-48" all that pressure is going to be directly on the knot that joins the lines. Guess what is going to happen?

 

Well - my opinion is don't give it a chance to happen. Give yourself a leader length of 8 FEET or more. That way when you are fighting those fish close to the boat, the weakest part of the set-up is in your spool and has no pressure on it at all.

 

Don't worry about the knot going though the eyes - it doesn't make much difference at all.

Posted

Leaders are necessary while musky fishing, that's for sure. I use leaders for almost everything except jigging/using worms while fishing in waters that have pike and/or musky. People I fish with have gotten bit off by pike on numerous occasions because they don't use a leader. I've never been bitten off. 12" for casting, 36" for trolling for myself personally.

Posted

I'm with dutch. I like the knot on my spool when the fish get close. I use mostly mono leaders, I don't find any difference with fluoro.

 

S.

Posted

this depends on what knots you use and how well you tie them, braid requires different knots, and thin braid (under 20 lbs) gets even harder to tie a high strength knot with out slipping or cutting into itself/leader

 

uni to uni, blood knot, surgeon all have a high failure rate for me with braid, I've found an improved Albright (8 wraps up, 8 wraps down...thin braid then 12-12) to be the strongest, simplest connection...can work in a bimini twist or various cinchknots (sebile, slim beauty), 9 out of 10 times my line breaks at the terminal end, the braid to top shot connection is a stronger knot...but those are a lot more difficult to tie on the water, waves, wind, cold, etc

 

I typically tie a 6-8' leader so it lasts longer and provides a bit of elasticity, when it gets down to less than 3' I tie a new one

 

 

The weakest part of the set-up for tying a leader to braid is the knot.

 

We all know all hell breaks loose when you get the fish beside the boat - If your leaders are 12"-48" all that pressure is going to be directly on the knot that joins the lines. Guess what is going to happen?

 

Well - my opinion is don't give it a chance to happen. Give yourself a leader length of 8 FEET or more. That way when you are fighting those fish close to the boat, the weakest part of the set-up is in your spool and has no pressure on it at all.

 

Don't worry about the knot going though the eyes - it doesn't make much difference at all.

Posted

Generally with braided lines about a 3 foot floro leader for lighter fishing and icefishing. Always Drennan 4,5,6,8 or 10 pound. Personal choice for all really, there's no clear cut must-do approach.

Posted

I go through phases lol. More often than not im using no leader, and very rarely have issues. And there is some real toothy monsters in my home waters. Im typically fishing 15-20 lb suffix 832 or pp. when the bite is on i dont care about colour either. With that being said, if im not getting bit i go to a leader of about 16-18". Nothing heavy or fancy, just 8-10lb fluoro tied to a good barrel swivel. At times it does make a difference in my experiences

Posted (edited)

Hey there, Look into some Tippet Rings, if you can find them in Canada.. their a tiny tiny ring to tie to your mainline, then your tip. It saves the gruff of tying blood knots/surgeons knots etc. and eliminates the big ole barrel swivel. I use them mostly on my fly rods and they sure can hold a bruit carp off the bottom. I feel they will be just fine on conventional gear.. mind you, I always use straight leaders in the 4-8lb 8-20ft range, unless I'm nymphing, then I use tippet and always a Tippet Ring

Edited by azebra

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