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Sinclair's new ice hut build


GBW

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Think LIGHT!! Trust me!!!

 

What are you moving it with??

 

Build a sturdy floor, and keep all the rest as light as possible. 2x2 framing with metal exterior is best in my experience, then insulate with 2" closed cell foam, or spray foam.

 

Do you have a sleigh to move that thing on?

 

Its hilarious at the end of ice season on scugog watching guys trying to get thier huts off. I pull up to mine, back the trailer up to it, hook it to the winch on the trailer, push a little button, and away it goes. Throw a strap front and back and away I go. One man show, with an 8x10 ice hut in tow. No need to call in all my buddies for help, no need to worry about it being frozen in.....takes me about 10 mins to put it on the trailer MYSELF! I can also push it with one hand myself if I want to just move it a little closer to the hot hole :)

 

It doesn't need to be sturdy, it needs to be light, and easy to move around!!! Ask me how I know.....I've had several heavy huts, and I learned my lessons the hard way!!!

 

S.

 

I'm just busting your balls and having a LOT of fun with this but Sinker is giving you LOTS of good advice.....listen and learn.

 

I have NEVER built a ice hut and would probably have the same tendencies you guys are having...build it big and STRONG as that is how I am....but you really need to think LIGHT LIGHT and LIGHTER on the ice...

 

But I can help you move it with my RR experience as that was my job for 30 years....putting VERY heavy RR cars back on track.... here's just one of the cranes (similar) I operated. The one we had lifted 250 ton and was manned by a 8 man crew, which included a diner car, sleeping quarters and a tool car...sometimes we would work around the clock for DAYS...if we couldn't lift it, it couldn't be lifted.....so PLEASE keep it under 250 tons as my experience doesn't help after that weight....LOL

 

DSCN0359.jpg

Edited by Billy Bob
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I'm just busting your balls and having a LOT of fun with this but Sinker is giving you LOTS of good advice.....listen and learn.

 

I have NEVER built a ice hut and would probably have the same tendencies you guys are having...build it big and STRONG as that is how I am....but you really need to think LIGHT LIGHT and LIGHTER on the ice...

 

But I can help you move it with my RR experience as that was my job for 30 years....putting VERY heavy RR cars back on track.... here's just one of the cranes (similar) I operated. The one we had lifted 250 ton and was manned by a 8 man crew, which included a diner car, sleeping quarters and a tool car...sometimes we would work around the clock for DAYS...if we couldn't lift it, it couldn't be lifted.....so PLEASE keep it under 250 tons as my experience doesn't help after that weight....LOL

 

DSCN0359.jpg

 

 

w00t.giflaugh.gif

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For windows and doors, I suggest going to an RV/house trailer style; the windows crank open and the doors are insulated, all made from lightweight aluminum. Most of the larger RV dealers have some form of scrap yard; that these should be easily found and at a good price. I just googled RV salvage parts and got all kinds of hits for places.

Why I said doors (plural) is that putting a door at both ends of the hut makes life so much easier; when it’s filled to capacity.

We’ve all likely been there; the guy that always seems the need to get out, is sitting the farthest from the door. Plus with your design of the centre LARGE hole; somebody’s going swimming, as they’re tiptoeing around lines and poles to get out.

 

Dan.

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With previous huts I tried to go medium/light construction all over. 2x4 floor joists suck big time. I mean they do the job but they deflect way too much for my liking....I don't want Geoff to miss a light bite because I stood up on the other side of the hut, right? So, as I said before I am building the floor heavy and going as light as possible with the rest of the structure.

 

I agree that 2X4's for floor joist are too light...would get the job done but again too light to hold up for the long run....however, 2X10 with 2X6 floor joists don't make much sense to me either...can you explain why you didn't just use 2X6's for complete floor... :dunno:

 

And the first one to use "that's what we had" has to bring the beer... ;)

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I used 2x10 (on purpose) to keep the joists higher off the ice, and to provide room for my built in (read: floor concealed) coolers ;)

 

Errrr....wouldn't a Hefty Garbage bag throw outside the HEAVY hut act as a cooler in the winter..... :whistling: ...or is this to "conceal" illegal items, like _________ :Gonefishing:

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Store outside? I don't know about you Billy Bob, but I prefer to drink my beer I mean pop soda, not chew it.

 

Keep'er going guys, at this rate I won;t be buying bait all winter! :thumbsup_anim:

 

You got a good point there partner.....chewy beer....you might have something there...."no honey, I am NOT drinking beer"....LOL

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That cut out for the holes is a great idea.Thats the way they do it up this way.Take a chainsaw and cut the hole in the ice the same size as the opening in the floorclapping.gif Then build a frame above the hole and hang a bunch of lines down into the waterclapping.gif

 

 

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Thanks Merc, but I actually plan to drill 6-8 holes in there instead of cutting a bathtub (wet coffin).

 

A wet boot is ok, but I don't want to go swimming! smile.gif

 

http://ouellette001.com/vivre/028vivre.htm

 

Check this out. we did this a few years back. What do you think about putting the cut out along an outside wall, that way you would have all that room to move around.

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