John Bacon Posted September 15, 2016 Report Posted September 15, 2016 How easy should it be to turn my rear wheels by hand if the vehicle is jacked up with both rear wheels in the air while in neutral and the parking brake off?I am getting a rubbing sound when I brake or drive slowly in my GMC Jimmy. It sounds like it might be worn brake pads. However, I replaced the pads on all four wheels last summer and I don't put many miles on this truck.I tought that my brakes may be sticking, which could explain them wearring out quickly and causing a rubbing sound while driving slowly even when the brakes are not applied.I tried jacking the vehicle up today to see own freely the wheels will turn by hand. The front tires turn easily but will not spin freely. I can spin the rear left tire; but there is significant resistance. I can barely move the right rear tire; I am big guy so most people probably couldn't move it at all.Initial I thought that this confirmed my suspicion that the brakes were sticking. However, it later occurred to me that even with the truck in neutral I would still have to turn the axel, differential, and drive shaft, etc. and that this could account for the resistance. The left may be easier because it could freewheel until the differential locks. I would appreciate any thoughts or advice from those who have a little more knowledge of auto maintenance.
Bondar Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 Do you use the E- brake on it ever?
Ron Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 (edited) Sounds like your brake cylinders are seized. Edited September 16, 2016 by Ron
John Bacon Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Posted September 16, 2016 Do you use the E- brake on it ever? Yes, I use it regularily. It didn't seem to make any difference on the left rear whether I had the parking brake on or not. I cannot remember if tried turning the right rear wheel with the parking brake on. Would the parking brake affect both rear wheels; or, do they usually only lock one wheel?
John Bacon Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Posted September 16, 2016 Sounds like your brake cylinders are seized. Thanks, would that be the cylinders in the calipers? Or, would it be a master cylinder that controls all of the wheels? I think I can replace the calipers myself. But, I don't want to start replacing parts unless I am sure that they will resolve the problem.
DRIFTER_016 Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 Most likely one of two things. 1/ corroded parking brake cable on the rubbing side (doesn't release properly) 2/ If rear brakes are drum then seized wheel cylinder. If rear brakes are disk then seized caliper.
John Bacon Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Posted September 16, 2016 Most likely one of two things. 1/ corroded parking brake cable on the rubbing side (doesn't release properly) 2/ If rear brakes are drum then seized wheel cylinder. If rear brakes are disk then seized caliper. Thanks, the rear brakes are disc. Is there an easy way to tell whether it is the parking brake cable versus the calipers? I am fairly handy, but I haven't worked on cars too much.
tb4me Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 If you have a stuck caliper the wheel will be black with soot from the pad sticking to the rotor
OhioFisherman Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 I have a 2009 Chevy van with around 35,000 miles on it, I haven't driven anywhere since 2011 and haven't had a license in around 3 years. My van sits for weeks at a time on a gravel driveway unless my son decides to drive it, just had to have one of the rotors cleaned up because it developed a rust spot that was causing dragging and pulling. It could be something very simple to correct? My mom gave me my dad's car when he died, it had sat for a couple years, and sat here, I just started it and ran it every so often. The first time I tried to take it somewhere? I got as far as my corner, when I hit the brakes, one of the front rotors collapsed from rust and locked up, I could back up, but not go forward. It may seem odd to use grease around brakes, but since I am disabled I paid to have a brake job done on my old van, a first for me, I always did my own, they didn't properly grease the slides and the pads started sticking.
DanD Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 Sure let's give a bunch of off the cuff advice, on something as trivial as brakes; all they do is STOP the friggin vehicle! Take the truck into a shop and have it diagnosed. If the issue(s) are something you think you can handle; you're not committed in letting that shop do the repairs. I am fairly handy, but I haven't worked on cars too much. Sure anyone can slap a set of pads and calipers on; but to install them properly is another thing too make them last and function as intended. You wouldn't believe how much money I've made, from homespun repair attempts that I've had to correct over the years and it is getting better all the time with Youtube. LOL Dan.
John Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 We get one or two a week Dan. Pads installed wrong way, no lubrication....
Headhunter Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 Take it across the street to the guys at Ravine. Colin and Rob are good guys and are fair. They won't do anything without your approval and always guarantee their work. I have used them for years and they are my go to guys. HH
AKRISONER Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 youve got lots of advice here.... heres what i would do... First of all, your rear wheels with the e brake off jacked up should be spinning freely. To a point that you will notice that the wheel weights will simply make the tire turn. there should be no resistance at all. my primary concern is that the calipers on the rear are sticking due to the pistons being seized/corroded. if they are the unsealed type...pull them apart and look for corrosion...if you cant easily pull the caliper brake pad seat from the actual caliper...theres your problem. a second more easy resolution if everything appears to be in good working order is that you may not have set the spring on you e brake to account for the new pads and therefore its causing it to rub all the time. this is highly unlikely but still possible. as a rule of thumb, your rear wheels will spin freely, but your front wheels wont because turning the wheels requires you to turn the differential on the car. It will still spin freely in neutral it just takes a lot more effort. The main thing is listen while you spin the wheels...you shouldnt be hearing any grinding or metal on metal noises. if you are getting a grinding noise that isnt coming from your brakes...your wheel bearings could be blown as well...but they would never get to the point of a total seize like you are describing.
John Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 youve got lots of advice here.... heres what i would do... First of all, your rear wheels with the e brake off jacked up should be spinning freely. To a point that you will notice that the wheel weights will simply make the tire turn. there should be no resistance at all. my primary concern is that the calipers on the rear are sticking due to the pistons being seized/corroded. if they are the unsealed type...pull them apart and look for corrosion...if you cant easily pull the caliper brake pad seat from the actual caliper...theres your problem. a second more easy resolution if everything appears to be in good working order is that you may not have set the spring on you e brake to account for the new pads and therefore its causing it to rub all the time. this is highly unlikely but still possible. as a rule of thumb, your rear wheels will spin freely, but your front wheels wont because turning the wheels requires you to turn the differential on the car. It will still spin freely in neutral it just takes a lot more effort. The main thing is listen while you spin the wheels...you shouldnt be hearing any grinding or metal on metal noises. if you are getting a grinding noise that isnt coming from your brakes...your wheel bearings could be blown as well...but they would never get to the point of a total seize like you are describing. With all due respect I wouldn't recommend that anyone service calipers unless they know exactly what they are doing...
Sinker Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 I'm no mechanic, but sounds like seized calipers to me. I would take DanD and Johns advice though, I think they are both mechanics. I assume this is a rear wheel drive Jimmy with 4x4? S.
DRIFTER_016 Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 Yes, if you are not proficient mechanicin' get someone to look at it who is. My Honda Pilot has a set of brake shoes that are for the parking brake and disks for stopping. Pretty interesting system.
AKRISONER Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 With all due respect I wouldn't recommend that anyone service calipers unless they know exactly what they are doing... fair...im not going to pass judgement on his mechanic abilities though....everyone has to learn some time right? I went from knowing nothing to swapping calipers and bleeding brakes...just gotta be careful.
John Bacon Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Posted September 16, 2016 as a rule of thumb, your rear wheels will spin freely, but your front wheels wont because turning the wheels requires you to turn the differential on the car. It will still spin freely in neutral it just takes a lot more effort. The main thing is listen while you spin the wheels...you shouldnt be hearing any grinding or metal on metal noises. if you are getting a grinding noise that isnt coming from your brakes...your wheel bearings could be blown as well...but they would never get to the point of a total seize like you are describing. Thanks, are you assuming that I have front wheel drive? My truck is a 4 x 4 Jimmy; so I assume that the rear wheels would have to spin a differencial (or at least one of them would).
AKRISONER Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 Thanks, are you assuming that I have front wheel drive? My truck is a 4 x 4 Jimmy; so I assume that the rear wheels would have to spin a differencial (or at least one of them would). then yes there will be resistance when turning the wheels if its 4x4 in this case you are now turning not only the diff but also the entire drive shaft (maybe they disengage on newer cars?) but once again in neutral it should still spin freely and easily...just with elastic type resistance that is constant. One of the easiest way to tell if its the brakes dragging is to simply let the car roll down a tiny slope in neutral. The car should roll smoothly, easily and without any noise.
ecmilley Posted September 17, 2016 Report Posted September 17, 2016 Lots of.places in Scarborough off a.free brake inspection. I would.consider it. Cause quite frankly the only.advice the only advice that has been good was to let the pros deal with it
Old Ironmaker Posted September 17, 2016 Report Posted September 17, 2016 I'm glad Dan D chimed in. I was thinking the exact thing "it's only brakes, big deal" just because John doesn't work on cars much brakes can't be a big deal , guys do them all the time. I leave important stuff like brakes to guys called mechanics. Years ago in Italy if your brakes were not done by a certified mechanic every X number of KM's, no insurance coverage.
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