mike rousseau Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 Here's day 1 on my boat floor project... Well I got the floor gutted today... Then got the wood cut to fit... 5/8 pressure treated... Just gotta cut holes for the seat bases... Glue the vinyl... Put the vinyl wrapped pieces of floor in the boat... Drill and rivet... And install seat bases...
Smokercrafty Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 So you just pulled the old floor, and all that foam was there??? Did you spray that in?...... Looking forward to more pics.....
Freshtrax Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 Some pressure treat will eat an aluminum boat. Not sure which one to watch out for but you may want to look into it.
dave524 Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 (edited) Some pressure treat will eat an aluminum boat. Not sure which one to watch out for but you may want to look into it. X2 Google " aluminum boat pressure treated wood " I wouldn't take a chance Edited April 12, 2015 by dave524
Lunkerhunter Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 I used marine plywood on my last boat. I also put a clear coat or whatever on it too for further protection. I sold it to a buddy and 6 years later it's absolutely perfect
Smokercrafty Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 (edited) I've also heard that's all overrated. Just paint 3/4 plywood with several coats, and away you go! That, or some wood sealant. I, in no way am condoning any of these two practices, it's just what I've heard. But I do echo the comments regarding the pressure treated stuff. Id read a little before finalizing your project. Edited April 12, 2015 by Smokercrafty
moxie Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 Coating ply should suffice, save you a buck or two and once dry there should be no chemical reaction issues.
Sinker Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 Ive had PT in my boat for years. No issues. Best floor ever. S.
mike rousseau Posted April 12, 2015 Author Report Posted April 12, 2015 So you just pulled the old floor, and all that foam was there??? Did you spray that in?...... Looking forward to more pics..... That's the original foam from factory
mike rousseau Posted April 12, 2015 Author Report Posted April 12, 2015 Well it looks like I have some thinking to do here... I've been reading up on it cause of you all... A solution I read is spray "plasti dip" on the aluminum stringers and I can coat the bottom of the plywood with it as well... I wish I would have known before I did the work and cut up over $100 of plywood... I'll keep reading up I guess and make a decision...
mike rousseau Posted April 12, 2015 Author Report Posted April 12, 2015 Ive had PT in my boat for years. No issues. Best floor ever. S. There we go... Lol
irishfield Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 "For years" is the key part of Sinkers post... which may equal the fact he has the old PT that was done with Arsenic. It didn't react with metals and why all the old deck brackets were simply galvinized. Now with the new PT.. since 2004... you have to use Stainless brackets and special screws or they will quickly deteriorate. Foam weather strip tape on the stringers Mike to isolate them and the correct "deck" screws and it will last the rest of your life. I wouldn't be redoing it...
mike rousseau Posted April 12, 2015 Author Report Posted April 12, 2015 "For years" is the key part of Sinkers post... which may equal the fact he has the old PT that was done with Arsenic. It didn't react with metals and why all the old deck brackets were simply galvinized. Now with the new PT.. since 2004... you have to use Stainless brackets and special screws or they will quickly deteriorate. Foam weather strip tape on the stringers Mike to isolate them and the correct "deck" screws and it will last the rest of your life. I wouldn't be redoing it... Thank you sir...
chefboi17 Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 Spar urethane is what a lot of guys seal floors and transom wood with. A few coats and it should last for years and Seeing how you already bought and cut the pt plywood, no point in wasting the materials. Well this and the steps irishfield posted regarding specific screws and foam to prevent galvanic corrosion
Pigeontroller Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 Air flow is good, some kind of bond breaker like 1/8 plastic horseshoe shims will work, keeps the PT and Alum separate... If you use staples underneath as well as contact cement, get SS ones. On my floor replacement I picked up two little chrome air vents from the local boat dealer, put one at the from, and one at the back...
fishindevil Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 Looks good mike !!! Yes great idea from pigeon troller about the air vents !!!! And prevent wood rot and keep her dry and air circulating under there as well !!!! Keep us updated with pics !!! I might want to replace the carpet on the front of my Lund where my front trolling motor seat is and replace it with vinyl with no slip coating !!!!! Cheers ..... Can't wait to get on the water !!!!
Smokercrafty Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 Yea, a lot of great tips here already Mike. I wouldn't sweat it with regards to what you have. I built a casting deck last year out of framed 2 X 2's that I gave a quick shot of paint to, prior to carpeting it. Then fastened it with a few 3" deck screws. My philosophy is this, in 3,4, 5, or even 10 years when, and if it molds or deteriorates, I'll pull the screws, and toss the whole deck out, then start all over. No stress! Just GET 'ER DONE and go fishing! That's the important part!
wormdunker Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 I did a boat floor 10 year ago. I used regular 3/4" plywood, but, before installing the plywood I coated the underside with fiibreglass resin. Mix the resin with the appropriate hardener & roll it on with a paint roller. The resin will dry to a rock hard finish. I know cause I spilled some on my workbench & it's still there today. I sold that boat to a friend & the floor is still in very good condition. Your job looks good!
moxie Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 Ya, should have just said "Great Job Mike". Can't wait to see the finished product.
aplumma Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 well done Mike I wrapped my carpet around my PT boards to keep them off the aluminium 14 years ago and it is doing fine. I also do not put the boat away wet using open decks and a fan just to keep mold and deterioration from happening. Art
mike rousseau Posted April 12, 2015 Author Report Posted April 12, 2015 Well considering I've already ordered $35 of aluminium rivets... And the cost of extra materials to "hopefully" protect the boat from corroding... I think I might call it a learning experience and get some regular plywood... Just frustrating throwing away $100 At least I have a good template to trace... Lol
Zamboni Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 Often the foam is holding a lot of water, 3-4-500 pounds if the old floor was rotted out. Many good threads on that at iboats; even closed cell foam will take on water over time. Get the boat weighed, your better off with no foam than water saturated foam.
mike rousseau Posted April 12, 2015 Author Report Posted April 12, 2015 Often the foam is holding a lot of water, 3-4-500 pounds if the old floor was rotted out. Many good threads on that at iboats; even closed cell foam will take on water over time. Get the boat weighed, your better off with no foam than water saturated foam. 99% of the foam was bone dry....
Sinker Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 I did my pt floor about 5 yrs ago with the new PT that is supposed to eat aluminum. No issues. Ive also built hundreds of decks in my life, and never seen a joist hanger rot off either. Some people worry too much. If your concerned, paint the underside of the ply, and anywhere it touches BARE aluminum and your good to go. S.
JoshS Posted April 12, 2015 Report Posted April 12, 2015 Do some more research before throwing away the PT. Irish's suggestion sounds pretty good and coupled with sealing the wood sounds like it should work well. I sealed my wood with 3 coats of spar urethane and it turned out great. Definitely seal the crap of your wood so you won't have to worry in time.
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