Zamboni

Many people call the brew on premises places homebrew scuro2...or Mr Beer kits etc. Probably that's what you've been exposed to, or you simply prefer a Budweiser or a Molson Canadian over a craft beer? If you do enjoy a craft beer, from a hoppy beer such as Mad Tom to a high end Stout like Kate the Great then all these high end beers can be made at home by a decent AG brewer. I make a Pliny the Elder clone people try to buy after tasting....and a porter that has won awards.

Doesn't sound like a spun hub then....next I would look at the shift cable (best case), see if the adjustment/clamps are secure, not damaged etc....pop of the cover and check the linkage adjustment. Google will show lots of how-to's with pics. If not that it's probably the clutch dog.

Gluvit is an aluminum boat owners best friend.

Often the foam is holding a lot of water, 3-4-500 pounds if the old floor was rotted out. Many good threads on that at iboats; even closed cell foam will take on water over time. Get the boat weighed, your better off with no foam than water saturated foam.

Hmmm...checked and it still is $99 at Tractor Supply (US). Plus taxes of course but might 'hurt sales"...luckily I only have the one. Curious, same heater on same page is $130 at Tractor Supply if CARB compliant....Mr Heater makes 2 versions of these heaters. http://tsc.tractorsupply.com/search?w=Big+Buddy&searchButton.x=24&searchButton.y=10

I posted a classified ad here today for a Big Buddy Heater (18000btu) for $110....brand new in box. Big Buddy is $190 + tax at Princess Auto. Please delete if this post plugging my ad is breaking any rules-I will only post once.

Few years ago I scanned all these charts, files are in printable page size good to bring on a boat instead of taking the chart. Pm me an email and I'll send you the files for that area.

Depending on the heads heli-coils are not always the best choice of insert. Fine in an aluminum head of basically same material; heli-coils are even used on aluminum heads of NHRA top fuel dragsters. Keenserts made of carbon steel are a better choice for most heads, not ever going to 'turn out' if someone torques down a plug too much. Heli coils can make your plugs run hotter too, saw an engineering vid comparing the 2 in a cast iron head-makes a dif.

Method Wayne described is best, especially outdoors. Be sure to wet down or silicone if its a bunk trailer, getting the boat started sliding backwards is hard on the transom tie downs your anchoring to the tree. It should go without saying, don't mean to insult you but this should be done on level ground, an incline down will make it harder to get the boat sliding off trailer. In a garage we often drop front of trailer so stern of boat raises in air-then block the boat out at transom. With transom securely supported you then jack at bow of the boat and support on both sides as far on chines in front of trailer wheels as possible. Remove the jack, roll trailer forward till wheels are at bow blocking of the boat.....jack boat up a little more-support boat behind trailer wheels, remove front blocking and roll your trailer away. Support boat centre bow and its nicely blocked if you have hull work to do.

Soft spot in floor is not good, might be water intrusion-rotted stringers or cross members. If your going to glass over it I'd use idiot saw first and have a look. Adhesive remover works great for cleaning glue without reacting with floor.

Looks nice, insist on a test drive. Running engines in barrels is a good way to inspect barrels if that's what your buying. Owner should agree to test drive if you leave deposit, sale is final upon the boat passing sea test. Good pick up on the trailer eye hook-looks like there is no front roller?....boats resting on a pad? the bow stop is adjustable on those trailers I think-you should be able to set it up higher for the boat-transom is currently supported, not hanging off the back? If so bring a ratchet strap along, hook the bow eye and loop around the trailer main beam-tighten up so the boats secure. The boats nice for that price, i get out on Lake O and Simcoe in a 16.5' often-just need to watch the weather. I sometimes plan for Lake O, weather sends me to Scugog.

1-In most cases you can't just dump more fuel into the engine to increase HP, along with bigger carbs you often have different heads, almost always larger exhaust ports....ignition systems 2-Your 9.9 Seahorse may be one of the few exceptions to above, only around 80/81 was the exhaust system larger/tuned etc. But its not the carbs that are different, its only the jets in the carbs-its same carb body. I think you just need to change reeds (petal plates) and carbs jets....everything else is ame on those engines I've heard. 3-Worries me that you think this could somehow increase HP Search the net for details on rejetting your carbs, the guy who told me those 70's 9.9 Johnsons are are capable of being converted knows his stuff. You definetly will need Reed plates also, online they are half what dealers charge. Put Boysen reeds on my merc and it ran smoother, gained 200 revs.

As GD says that is probably the overheat alarm. I say probably as you didn't post if it is a constant beeeep or beep-beep-beep. What engine, year/hp? Not much to changing an impellor, it may look intimidating but rates about 5/10 on dificulty scale. Good how to's on iboats forums. Post your engine's serial number, I'll see if I have the shop manual in pdf format.

It sounds fuel starved, change filter-ensure bulb is not collapsing when running-vent is open on tank? Does the engine pick up if you pump the bulb when its sputtering out? How about the carb....is your float moving freely or stuck pushing needle preventing carb from calling for fuel?....or old gas varnished up carb orifices?

Looks like a great day on the lake. How was the wake from that Hamilton Energy boat?

Worth asking as merc had a bad batch with an easy fix-starter spinning without throwing the bendix up into the flywheel?

Yep, spun prop. Get your prop rehubbed, any prop place near you? edit=I should add, your probabl not going to feel the slippage if you try to check this by hand. Lot of guys that haven't been through this before think props fine after rifting on it a bit. If you doubt the props slipping put some align marks on it and go for a test run.

Amazing fish-congratulations!

Lay off the peroxide, when the baby spiders hatch and come out from under your skin their gonna be angry.

Better off with merc SJ than outboard jet-look on Outlaw site....popular out west on rivers. http://www.outlaweagle.com/boatmodels.htm Suprising how little my boat draws once its on plane-love to try one of those real river runners.

Yep, start with vacumn lines, vacumn actuator....may be an easy-cheap fix. Always start with the easy/obvious stuff-vacumn lines....fluid level in transfer case is good? Check on the net car sites if its possible/safe to get Jimmy into regular 2 wheel drive and then pull fuse to disable shift to 4 wheel drive.....get you home to work in your driveway.

How long can critters like zebra mussels live without water on our outdrives etc? Some times I'll have my boat in a lake like Simcoe for a week, vacation ends....trailer home and following weekend could be a buddies cottage in Haliburtons. I like to shoot the hull, jet pump etc on my boat with hot water at do-it-yourself car wash-overkill? I see guys pull their boats to head directly to another lake for a day trip....then read thread of Quebec lakes that charge you for a wash before allowing boats to launch. Really curious how long even things like algae live....how much water crap like that needs. More and more wakeboats ARE adding Fat Sacs, basically a ballast system. Those boats fill ballast after launching (increases boats wake size) then dump the water at days end. Of course not all water and whatever exits the sacs(or tanks on factory installed boats)....they smell foul. Boat then launches on another lake....and I'm worried about my bilge? Owners can run bleach through their ballast system-hard on the pump rubber seals etc.

By law is usually enforced if a complaints received, when that happens all the boats, campers-whatevers in violation in that area receive letters. The law has to be evenly applied, so one complaint gets everyone close by. Now if its not one of your neighbours that complained then moving the boat for a month, or doing nothing at all may cause no further encounters with by law enforcement. Your allowed 2-3 nights every 30 days the way some by laws are written-check out the wording.

Never hooked a dock, purposely bounced a few crankbaits off older beat up docks.....like hitting a log it gets bass attention. I'm sure most would do as I do and be extra careful if snagged where others might swim....move over the snag, 'disturb' the area but retrieve the lure by pulling from every angle. Box springs and chain link fences sound like more of a danger to swimming kids than fishing lures-hope nobody reads this and thinks its a good idea.