getting that time of year winterizing your boat what do you do

[skinny]

ok so seeing as how I have more boat than I had before and it fiberglass inboard I need to take care of it for winter

I'm planing on having it shrink wrapped

but looking for other pointers

 

like fill motor with rv antifreeze and drain all oil from out drive

 

what else

 

[Paudash]

My question is shrink wrapping worth it

[skinny]

my boat will be outside all winter I tried the tarp thing last year and was not happy with what I found so I thought I would try wrap

[Bernie]

Properly done, shrink wrap is a good way to store. Make sure to build the supports strong and high enough for snow to slide off.
Install vents as well.
I'd leave the oil in the drive. Just crack the drain screw to check for any water in the oil or drain it out and refill. The oil keeps the gears from getting rusted from condensation.

Some IO's (Older OMC units) also have two areas that have gearcase oil. The upper housing also has gears that change drive direction that require lubricant.
Careful with filling the block with antifreeze. Make sure you drain the block by removing any drain screws first.

Edited September 17, 2014 by Bernie

[dave524]

I wouldn't be draining the oil from the outdrive unless you are going to replace it with new. I can't imagine an I/O is different from an outboard in this regard, leave the outdrive filled for the winter, just make sure the lube is in good shape with no water in it.

[2 tone z71]

we just pull all the hoses off the block at the lowest points and remove the drain cocks from the manifolds etc ..check the gear lube like Bernie said if its milky ..drop it and change it ..remember that water got in somehow thou..good time for new seals both gear case and drain screws...Shrink wrap is the only way to go @ 10.00 ft

[Raf]

mine was outside last year, I built about a 5.5' tall a-frame placed inside the boat out of 2x4s and covered with tarp. worked well, lots more airflow available than shrink wrapping and no snow accumulated.

 

this year, she will be sleeping inside.

 

my 4stroke is dead easy, change the engine oil and lower unit oil. I run stabil in the tank the last few times I am out in case I need to put it away earlier than expected.

 

batteries come inside for the winter.

Edited September 17, 2014 by Raf

[bigbuck]

Befor I pull it from the lake I drop in stabil into the tank and go for a quick blast and then pull up to the trailer and fog it first. Lots of fog down the carb till it stalls out. Then after it is on the driveway, I change the engine oil and filter while it is still warm. Replace fuel filter/water separator. Drain the block and manifolds completely, air does not freeze (this coming from a tech who spent many years in Alaska servicing boats). Change the impeller if it is due and do any work lon the engine bay now, check the drive belts, etc..... Disconnect and charge the battery while doing all this. If you have a trolling motor, charge its batteries as well. I then move to the outdrive and drain the gear oil being careful to check the old oil carefully for signs of water and/or metal shavings. refill with oil. Make sure the drain plug is out of the transom and then put the frame in for my tarps. Cover the prop with a couple garbage bags and tape off with masking tape. Kiss her goodnight and park where it will spend its winter. Iboats.com can be a great help as there is info specific to each motor/drive. Also lots of really knowledgeable guys that can help you with specific issues.

[LesCulpJr]

I start running stabilizer in my fuel the end of august "just in case" I don't use all the fuel up by the time I put the boat away . Gas now days is only good for about 60 days anyway. If your engine is fuel injected it may not stall out for you if you are using fogging oil. Just keep spraying until she starts to run a little rough and it starts to smoke.

Check the gear oil for sure and replace if you detect water.

If you keep your boat on a trailer when not in use you'll want to drain the block and winterize it soon as all it will take is one good frosty morning to freeze and break some thing.

If you keep your boat in the water at a dock you'll be alright for a few weeks yet

 

Manifolds go for about $1500 each and up and they aren't cheap to ship:) A new block will cost $5000

Don't wait too long!

 

Like previously suggested there are a couple web sites and no doubt youtube videos to aid you if you want to do the work yourself.

Having work done at a marina will be about $250 plus parts give or take.

 

We use antifreeze after draining water from the block again "just in case". It really sucks getting your boat out the next spring to find you missed a drain plug somewhere! Especially if its someone else's boat! lol. It happens.....

 

Its good to do all your maintenance in the fall that way when spring comes all you have to do pull out the boat, hook up the battery and go!

 

Les

[Bernie]

Every year we get three or four boats in with cracked something from those that did not properly store.
Expensive repairs.

[lew]

A bud had a 90 HP outboard and couldn't be bothered winterizing it in the fall. Just left it hanging off the back of the boat outside all winter and didn't even bother throwing a tarp over it.

 

It was a very ugly sight in the spring time and very expensive to put back together again.

 

Sometimes it's OK to say "I told ya so"

[musky666]

I usually Musky hunt into November, so I change gear and lower unit oil in mid October while still fairly warm outside. Also change crankcase oil mid season since I troll a lot- just to help keep things clean.

[reelinrolly]

still three months of good boat fishing left

[FloatnFly]

still three months of good boat fishing left

 

 

haha maybe on st clair where it never freezes.......

 

also hello fellow Sarnian, spent my first 20years there, but moved to oshawa 10 years ago.

[Steve]

I find the best solution to winterizing is never to do it...just fish 12 months a year and all is good.

 

thankfully with the Niagara River, Port Dalhousie, Quinte, and other year round fishing locations available, that is possible for us Ontarians.

We are very fortunate in this province.

[Joeytier]

Except 95% of the province doesnt have open water in the winter lol (not in terms of population obviously). I'm usually forced outta the boat by early to mid november

[Mister G]

I find the best solution to winterizing is never to do it...just fish 12 months a year and all is good.

 

thankfully with the Niagara River, Port Dalhousie, Quinte, and other year round fishing locations available, that is possible for us Ontarians.

 

We are very fortunate in this province.

I agree, however NOT with a I/O......they should be put away by November depending how far north you are. Just one more reason to never own a boat powered by a I/O.

 

The easiest motor I have ever owned to winterize is my E-TEC......it self winterizes itself in about 4 minutes.

[Sinker]

I love the winterizing threads.

 

There really is nothing that you need to do to an outboard but check the lower unit oil. Change it once a year in the early fall, and your good to go.

 

Explain to me how an E-Tec does that?? So you push a button, and the etecs check the lower unit to make sure its not full of water?? Riiiiight!!! Let me know how that works out for you come spring when your lower unit it split wide open because there was water in the gearcase and it froze solid.

 

I'm like Steve. My boat is pretty much ready to go any time of year. Keep the batteries charged, and don't use the livewell or bilge when its below zero. Pretty simple.

 

S.

[grimsbylander]

I have a seasonal routine of living in denial that winter come. I fish into December, then do the frozen finger winterizing method. As much as I hate working in the boat when it's cold out, I hate looking at a tarped up boat on a sunny 10 degree Sunday even more.

I do the lower end and RV antifreeze the livewells early, but the rest has to wait!

[Mister G]

I love the winterizing threads.

 

There really is nothing that you need to do to an outboard but check the lower unit oil. Change it once a year in the early fall, and your good to go.

 

Explain to me how an E-Tec does that?? So you push a button, and the etecs check the lower unit to make sure its not full of water?? Riiiiight!!! Let me know how that works out for you come spring when your lower unit it split wide open because there was water in the gearcase and it froze solid.

 

I'm like Steve. My boat is pretty much ready to go any time of year. Keep the batteries charged, and don't use the livewell or bilge when its below zero. Pretty simple.

 

S.

[smally21]

My Johnson motor has a fogging valve..running at idle with earmuffs and flush hoses attached..hook the oil to the valve and fog all cylinders at once.

 

I clean the terminals then use maintenance chargers on all batteries all winter, clean the boat as best I can in late season, fill with stablilized fuel, run some freeze through all pumps, blow out speedo line, check lower unit oil, build 2x4 frame, cover with travel top, then second tarp. Jack and block trailer to mildly relieve tires.

 

Oh and I prop open all compartments..toss in all kinds of dryer sheets..don't know if it keeps animals out but it sure smells nice in springtime.

Edited September 24, 2014 by smally21

[Sinker]

That's great, but did nothing for the lower unit that's full of water.

 

S.

[Mister G]

Sinker, you are correct.......checking / changing the lower unit oil is a must for those who don't have a heated store area. I am lucky as I have one but sometimes I really don't know when the last time out for me is, so this procedure can be done every time you think it's your last time out.

 

Proper fogging a engine is almost as important as attending to the lower unit. Skipping that procedure is stealing years away from the power head.

[Sinker]

Ive had the same engine since '93. Never been fogged once.

 

S.

[Regan Thompson]

Shrink Wrap... HUGE WASTE OF MONEY!!! All it is, is a speacial tarp that looks cool. Just get some 2X4's, build a frame and tarp it. make sure it's tight and no ropes are hanging down so rodents can't get in. Done and you've saved yourself at least $300.