pikehunter Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 (edited) So the Ford 500 has a throttle body problem. Since the car came out in 2005 till it was replaced by the Taurus 2008 there has been many internet documented issues with carbom build up and failing electronic throttle body assemblies. I have cleaned it twice with limited success and also cleand the maff sensor once. Ford has recently admitted there is a problem and I received a notice to take it in for a cleaning and a computer reset at no charge. So I'm there anyway and have the oil changed. They tell me (I already knew this) the front right lower ball joint is shot, the rear brake pads are close to the end of their life and not only that but the throttle body is history as the electric connector is cracked. Water/moisture has entered into it and caused problems besides carbon issues. So total estimated repair cost is about 2 grand!!!! So, I tell him the pads no prob, I can change them to save some money, the ball jont they can do it and lets try a used throttle body at $250 instead of $700 for a new one. Oh yeah...the ball joint cannot be replaced only. The entire control arm is a part of the deal, part cost alone is $377 and no way around it as there are no after market parts out there (this I also knew about) and the throttle body is also only available through the Ford dealer. And not only that the transmission roll resistor mount I replaced last year is also only available through Ford! Price here in Canada was $419, I bought it in the States for $173 new from a Ford dealer! But the control arm and throttle body U.S price is much closer to the Canadian price when compared, can't figure that one out....cars, so confusing and every model year newer they get more costly to repair! So the used Thrt body arrives from Ohio, take the car back in. It doesn't work. Car won't run with it, the original goes back on. The used one is being sent back and they located another used one in Quebec. Service guy is leary about trying another one. Says you need a new one...about 700 bucks. I say hold off, let me consider this. I price a new one in the States on the internet and by a phone call to Baldo Ford in Niagara Falls NY. Their price, $633.22. Not worth it I decide, call the dealer back in Burlington and they are doing it in this morning. I can remember when this type of crap was expected if you had bought an imported car, not a Ford or a Chev!! There was always plenty of aftermarket parts and you didn't have to replace half a front end for the sake of a ball joint! Or an entire arm when a bushing fails, or the entire throttle body and electronics if a carb konked out on you. NOW I KNOW WHAT FORD AND GM MEANS WHEN THEY SAY "IT"S A WORLD CAR" It means we gonna screw ya boy when ya gotta fix it! Dear Lord....is there any way I can have my old 1965 Plymuth Fury with a 318 in it back again? Please, I'll do just about anything! It was so simple, so easy and so cheap to fix, and today it would be worth a mint! Oh yeah....the oil change, ball joint/control arm, labour and 4 wheel alignment cost $753 with tax! Now another 700 plus! Edited January 5, 2013 by pikehunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 And that's the reason I buy a new truck every 3-4 years Harry. When the warranty is gone, so is the truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outllaw Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 gotta agree. the plymouth fury. 1965. i had 2. 313 red ram. lift the hood. room for 2 motors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pikehunter Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 And that's the reason I buy a new truck every 3-4 years Harry. When the warranty is gone, so is the truck The best way Lew, if I could I would. Save a lot of hastles, but I have also heard the occasional lemon story in regards to all makes of cars. Some new ones have had more time in the shop then on the road, I know warranty looks after it but still a hastle fot those not so lucky folks. I am amazed at what repair costs amount to and the fact things are unrepairable anymore. I think the only way to help is to consider the total cash outlay for a replacement for the '05 Ford with a new Taurus, Somewhere between $45000 and $58000 depending on model and options so opening up the piggy bank to spend $1400 or so on repairs makes it a little easier I supose, just a little easier, not really easy but just a little gentler. But it still bites! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skipper D Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Remember back when the goverment told them to reinvent the car , and heres how bad its been ever since . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 What's the ford motto? Something like "quality is job number ____" Sure as hell ain't number one. We've got 2 3/4 ton garage queens at work, more time in the garage on the hoist than working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecmilley Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 part of the problem is to keep the cost of the new car down they use more all in one parts, like unservicable ball joints, just makes them more expensive to repair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 (edited) Just checked with my supplier for the control arm assembly. It is available. Mevotech MS40147 left side MS40148 right side. B joint + oil change + alignment in my shop taxes in would have been 534.49. Edited January 5, 2013 by Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedimaster Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Loved my 67 valiant, slant six, nothing ever went wrong with it EVER. Mind you it smelled like gas and ran a bit dirty on cold days, had cranky windows, no power locks, lap belts, no air bags, drum brakes, no crumple zones or side impact beams etc.... cars have come a long way, and with more moving parts comes more to break. Just suck it up and fork it out to the man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplumma Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 The older cars are remembered in a better light than they real were in. Tune up every three thousand miles, rattling noises, rusting out, fuel sucking, unsafe and unreliable for the most part. We forget that the new vehicles while more complicated can go for 100,000 miles before a tune up. Tires that go 60,000 miles because the tolerances of the front end are that tight and dependable. We have to give credit to the better materials we have to use including lubricants and technology. I found one of the best ways to keep your costs down in the repair shop is to find a shop that wants to earn your business. Interview the mechanic and owner before you need a repair. When you bring in your car for repair and they present you with an estimate don't be afraid to ask the questions you need to so you understand what they are doing for the price quote. Don't tell them it is to expensive until then and then ask them if there are options to make it less expensive. I know as a plumber that if people approach a repair this way I fell then it is not just a person trying to get a better price than the job deserved. It keeps both of the people from getting defensive the customer doesn't feel ripped off and the mechanic is not feeling like you called him a crook. I have had the pleasure of an auto mechanic for 15 years and I make sure he knows he is appreciated and he does the same. BTW I am not down on older cars we have a 64 GTO, 65 Ford Pick up and a 72 VW Convertible we love to play with they do not go to the shop because they are from a time where you could work on them. Art Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecmilley Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Just checked with my supplier for the control arm assembly. It is available. Mevotech MS40147 left side MS40148 right side. B joint + oil change + alignment in my shop taxes in would have been 534.49. yup i would have been 534.47 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiel Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Just checked with my supplier for the control arm assembly. It is available. Mevotech MS40147 left side MS40148 right side. B joint + oil change + alignment in my shop taxes in would have been 534.49. yup i would have been 534.47 Looks like it would have cost less even if you had to have it towed to one of these guys Harry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch312 Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 The best way Lew, if I could I would. buying new every few years isn't the wisest financial choice as vehicles depreciate so quickly and you're still not guaranteed anything. seeing as you're unhappy about spending $1500 for repairs on an 05, i highly doubt you'd be happy with spending more money as you'd probably be losing $5-15k every 3 years depending on what you buy. a buddy buys new every 3 years and loses $10k a pop meaning over a 10 year span he has spent $30,000 extra to avoid paying for repairs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 gotta agree. the plymouth fury. 1965. i had 2. 313 red ram. lift the hood. room for 2 motors. The good old days... sitting on the inner wheel well changing spark plugs!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 buying new every few years isn't the wisest financial choice Nobody said it was a wise choice, but some of us just don't like driving older vehicles...it's just all a personal choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 One way or another, it's going to cost you to do anything but walk. As Art has said, the older vehicles had their issues too. Remember having to stick a screwdriver down the carb to keep the choke open on cold days? And lots of cars billowing black smoke going down the road. Doing valve jobs and tune ups. They could build an indestructible car, but it would be crazy priced and put an auto industry out of work. Been fixing stuff for a long time. It was the same thing back then too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 yup i would have been 534.47 Ha! Don't make me outbid ya Ernie! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outllaw Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 irishfield. points and condensers. holding the choke open. most wont know what i am saying Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbuck Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 (edited) Adjusting points in auto shop, I remember that, anybody have a book of matches?? Playing with wonky chokes, tuneups every 24 000 kms, black tar oil after 5000 kms. Rotted out floorboards, rusted out rear quarters that flapped like wings on the highway. Oh the joys. Rebuilding carbs, adjusting solid lifters. The good old days. Cars were simpler, BUT they didn't age gracefully. Yes, repairs are expensive, compare that to buying a new car. The 2 cars we have on the driveway are 10 years old, I don't have too much of a problem spending 2k each a year on repairs and maintenance, that's the depreciation on 1 new car per year. My vehicles have paid for themselves and btw, I spend around 1500-2000 on maintenance an repairs for both so I'm ahead of the game. You are driving an 8 model year old car. It is at the point where it does not owe you anything. Repairs suck but paying for a new car hurts. Edited January 5, 2013 by bigbuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck2fan Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 My first car was a 67 Ford Galaxie 500 convertible I bought in 82. Developed some piston slap at 280,000 MILES so my dad said he would rebuild the motor. I get there to help him and the motor was still in the car, but he had told me he had done the top end, the night before? He said he took off the heads jacked the car up loosened every thing off the crankshaft, removed the pistons, replaced the 2 that were scored, did all the rings on the rest, WHILE STANDING in the motor bay. So all we had to do was jack the car up while he did the main bearings put the oil pan back on from underneath. I was skeptical but when he finished the compression was dead on for factory specs and I put another 55,000 MILES on it before the main crossmembers rotted out.... Now it would take more time to unhook the electronics on a motor than it did to fix and button up the bottom end of that 289. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinker Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 First mistake was buying a FORD! (sorry, someone had to say it) S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassmaster4 Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 american made cars are made to run as long as your still paying for them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camillj Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Ahhhh yes the old '70 Valiant slant six ... could see the highway through the floor-boards ... and always carried a can of WD-40 on cold days .... I called it the 'flame-thrower' .... and my first car .. '69 Camaro Z28 ... fill-er-up-and a quart of oil please ... but yes ... two of you get get in under the hood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pikehunter Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 (edited) Took it in this morning, the bill for installing a new throttle body, just shy of $900, tax in. Total came in at around $1650. I was also told to expect it not to run that great until I put as much as 1000 kms on the clock as the computer was reset? Yes the old cars did have their share of troubles and more frequently required tune ups etc. But at least you could easily change points, condenser, rotor, cap and plugs but yes not very reliable. I can remember my 67 Acadian. The distributor cap was split in two, plug electrodes were burned away to a thread but you could turn the key, even on a rainy day and it would fire up! Amazing! I did change all of these items soon after buying it. We changed a clutch disk and plate in a 66 GTO in my parents driveway...In the dark. I've even changed a water pump on a 68 dodge and a heater core on a 71 ford I once had. All this and more was years ago. With today's cars, forget it! I open the hood with good intentions and usually through my hands up discouraged! Edited January 6, 2013 by pikehunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplumma Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 I am glad you are back on the road, be happy it will be awhile before you have to repair it again most likely. Art Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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