Rizzo Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 I've got 2 outboards - a 2006 9.9 mercury 2 stroke and a 2001 50 Johnson 4 stroke. I've heard conflicting information regarding winterizing. Some say leave fuel in the lines (with stabilizer) to prevent drying/corrosion, others say drain all fuel out due to the damage ethanol will do. Is there a difference between how to winterize the 2 stroke versus the 4. In my 4 I actually use high octane from shell (no ethanol??)so does that maybe make a difference? Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbuck Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 Stabil Marine Formula takes care of corrosion issues. Leave fuel in the lines change your gear oil, fog and you are good to go. I'm doing my I/O late this month and it aint as easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike rousseau Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 I've only ever run stabilizer and changed the oil... Never had much of a problem... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rizzo Posted October 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 so does the stabilizer negate the effect of the ethanol? I always fog the 2 stroke but I've never fogged my 4 stroke, everything seems to be enclosed when I take the cover off, can't figure out where to spray it! The 4 stroke I usually let the pro's deal with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike rousseau Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 We have never fogged our motors... They always start fine in the spring... But keep in mind... I run my boat into December... And it's in the water in late march... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigeontroller Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 Fogging is for 2 strokes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecmilley Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 most 4 strokes should have the plugs removed and a small squirt of oil for long term storage, i 've never done it myself but that is out of both my owner's manual for a yamaha and a mercury. i always run my carbs dry you can put all the stabilzer you want in ethanol is still a solvent and can corrode lines and carbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scugpg Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 I heard running 4 strokes dry is bad for them. not true? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitbyboatguy Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 4 strokes: -drop a teaspoon of oil via the spark plug holes on top of each cylinder if it is being left for 4 or more months. Summer, winter or whenever it sits. -turn the flywheel by hand to get the whole cylinder coated. -DON'T run it dry. Put some stabilizer in it on its last run or 15 minutes. -Run ethanol free before storage. The manufacturers (from what I see) say don't worry about it but I do it anyways. Shell sells ethanol free (the high end one). I am pretty sure there are thousands of threads on this top on the net. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinker Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 Shell V-power has NO ETHANOL. Its all I would use in any small engine or outboard. I store all my gas powered equipment full, with seafoam as a stabilizer. NEVER had a problem with fuel, or start up in the spring. I'm running a '93 Mariner, so she's got a few hours on it, and never an issue with fuel. I've changed the fuel line once in all those years. Not to mention the chainsawes, mower, weed whacker, snow blower, and generator.....no problems. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tybo Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 With the boat and engine being on the newer side.You don't have to worry about the Ethanol. For your fuel line and components are made to support the drying effects from a wood alcohol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 And the real answer is...do what your owners manual recommends. My '96 Honda manual recommends running the motor dry until it stops and then draining any left over gas from the carbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Bob Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 Purchased new 1985 Johnson 50hp VRO outboard: I always use a fuel stabilizer (Sta-Bil, the red stuff)near the end of the season so I know it has run thru the system...but this year I did purchase the Marine Grade Sta-Bil, the blue stuff because of the ethanol now in expensive gasoline. I remove the plugs and fog both cylinders and turn over by hand. Grease all Zerk fitting on steering components and outboard. Drain and refill lower unit with lower unit lube or if I don't have any gear oil. Remove electronics and take boat to storage area where I plug in my onboard charger to maintain both batteries. Shed a tear or two because I know it's going to be a long winter, again... Come mid March I sport a HUGE SMILE while I remove boat from storage and start up in driveway while smoking out the neighbors... :unsure: ...of course always using the ear muffs for the cooling system. First day of ice off on Chautauqua Lake I'm out there crappie fishing....some go to the neighbors I previously smoked out... This has stood the test of time for me.... ...so I'm not about to change anything.... Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Cliff Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 Old school was run them dry but if you put that answer on your test to get your license now as a small engine or marine mechanic, you will get it wrong. New school is to use stabilizer. I always did it with my old boat and it would start right up first thing in the spring just like it did before I put it away. (Two stroke) I always did fog it! Same thing with my new boat. (4 Stroke) Stabilizer in the fuel, full tank of gas, change lower unit lube, do an oil change, grease whatever should be greased, and park it. Fog if it makes you feel better but I really don't think it is necessary on a newer motor and especially if you are running a synthetic or blend of oil. I get in it in the spring, turn the key and it starts and runs just like it did before I parked it in the fall. My old motor was 20 years old when I sold it and still ran fine so I'm thinking my plan works! Big thing on a 4 stroke though is to change the oil just before you put it away. Every gallon of gas you burn generates up to 15 gallons of water, (air/fuel ratio 14.7: 1) some of which gets into your crank case. Now if you are running your engine a lot for longer periods then that water evaporates off through your crank case vent no problem! However (especially on shorter runs) there are hydroscopic droplets of water that can remain in your oil, if left sitting on crytical components they can cause erosion. Will it destroy your engine? Well not short term but it can reduce the life of it over time. One last note though, I always give all my linkages (throttle, choke,shift; anything that should move) a quick spray with WD40. This also helps to prevent drying or corossion. No matter how many people you ask or how many posts you read there are going to be a variety of answers regarding what has worked for them, (the people that post what didn't work are few and far between LOL.) Just take in all the information and do what feels right for you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 I run Marine Stabil in my 150 four stroke all year, then at the end of the season I put in some extra and fill the gas tank right up. I pull the plugs and spray a bit of fogger into each cylinder, replace the plugs and hit the key a couple time on & off fast just to move the pistons a bit and then shut her down till the spring time. Do the other fluids, grease what needs it and your good to go. Most years I jack the trailer up and put it on blocks just to take the load off the tires, although I didn't do that last year. Anybody else put the trailer on blocks ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 (edited) Anybody else put the trailer on blocks ?? Always Lew.. axle stands under the frame behind the wheels with the tongue sitting on the floor and then lift the tongue up. Allows the springs to hang and get some arch back and lets the tires be round. Also the perfect time now that you can spin all the wheels to check the bearings for side play etc. Edited October 1, 2011 by irishfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 I run Marine Stabil in my 150 four stroke all year, then at the end of the season I put in some extra and fill the gas tank right up. I always fill mine as well, Lew. The worst that could happen is that I'll have saved $1.50 a gallon over the following spring's gas prices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Cliff Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 I run Marine Stabil in my 150 four stroke all year, then at the end of the season I put in some extra and fill the gas tank right up. I pull the plugs and spray a bit of fogger into each cylinder, replace the plugs and hit the key a couple time on & off fast just to move the pistons a bit and then shut her down till the spring time. Do the other fluids, grease what needs it and your good to go. Most years I jack the trailer up and put it on blocks just to take the load off the tires, although I didn't do that last year. Anybody else put the trailer on blocks ?? When I used one, ALWAYS. Good point Lew! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 (edited) Every gallon of gas you burn generates up to 15 gallons of water, (air/fuel ratio 14.7: 1) some of which gets into your crank case. So lets burn a lot of gas and nobody will run out of water.. I think this is more like it: So the stoichiometry gives (118lb of C8H18 reacts with 400lb of Oxygen to give 353 lb of CO2 and 162 lbs of water). So per pound of gasoline burnt you get 1.42 lbs of water. Density of gasoline is around 6 lbs / gal and that of water is 8.3 lbs/gal. Plugging in those numbers you get 1.03 gallons of water are produced per gallons of gasoline burnt. Now to be able to compare apple to apple, I convert the water produced per mile of travel. Assuming 25 miles to a gallon average of a US Car that works out to be : 0.04 gal of water produced per mile Edited October 1, 2011 by Fisherman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 I leave my fuel tank where ever it is at after late fall Muskie and top it with fresh fuel in the spring. The condensation and water in the tank myth is just that.. they condense on the outside of the tank.. not generally inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Cliff Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 (edited) So lets burn a lot of gas and nobody will run out of water.. I think this is more like it: So the stoichiometry gives (118lb of C8H18 reacts with 400lb of Oxygen to give 353 lb of CO2 and 162 lbs of water). So per pound of gasoline burnt you get 1.42 lbs of water. Density of gasoline is around 6 lbs / gal and that of water is 8.3 lbs/gal. Plugging in those numbers you get 1.03 gallons of water are produced per gallons of gasoline burnt. Now to be able to compare apple to apple, I convert the water produced per mile of travel. Assuming 25 miles to a gallon average of a US Car that works out to be : 0.04 gal of water produced per mile What ever you say! All I am going on is what I was taught in school, perhaps you should be the teacher! Edited October 1, 2011 by Big Cliff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 Always Lew.. axle stands under the frame behind the wheels with the tongue sitting on the floor and then lift the tongue up. Allows the springs to hang and get some arch back and lets the tires be round. Also the perfect time now that you can spin all the wheels to check the bearings for side play etc. I've got a few 8' x 6x6 beams laying around here, so I'm gonna use them to prop the trailer up this season rather than my axle stands. Their gonna lay along the frames either sides of the wheels to even the load and give more support all over. As you say Wayne, it just takes the load off alot of parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 (edited) What ever you say! All I am going on is what I was taught in school, perhaps you should be the teacher! Somebody said Columbus discovered the "New World" in 1492, I think he was a "bit" late, it was discovered long before that, time to rewrite books should happen more often. As for making 15 gallons of water per gallon of gas, I've been in the fog and rain, but not that bad. Matter of fact, I wouldn't even think of trying to smoke whatever your teacher was on.. Edited October 1, 2011 by Fisherman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GbayGiant Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 Yamaha manual says to drain carbs. There is nothing about running the cylinder dry. I actually add cylinder lube in each one and crank the engine over with the safety off of course for a couple of seconds. Then I drain the carbs and have never had any issues. Hope this helps. Cliff has the right idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitbyboatguy Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 Yamaha manual says to drain carbs. There is nothing about running the cylinder dry. I actually add cylinder lube in each one and crank the engine over with the safety off of course for a couple of seconds. Then I drain the carbs and have never had any issues. Hope this helps. Cliff has the right idea. I forgot about carbs...from what I remember carb on any machine should be drained for winter.....EFIs dont' get drained. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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