PURA VIDA IN COSTA RICA. Report.

[Moosebunk]

Day 1. THE AIR CANADA AMAZING RACE.

 

 

Woke at 0431 in the morning at a friends in Ottawa. Restless sleep to say the least, when I looked to Bren she was already wide awake. “OK hun, you shower first.” I said. Our honeymoon to Costa Rica was underway.

 

At 0530 we reached the airport to catch our scheduled 0730 flight to Toronto, which connected us to a 9:55 flight to the city of Liberia in Costa Rica. At this point we were all too excited for what lay ahead in the day, a day that turned out having the most disgusting series of events we could have ever been dealt.

 

At 0710 an announcement was made that our 7:30 flight would be delayed due to mechanical reasons. I approached the Air Canada rep and she was quick to change us over to an 0800 flight instead. Bren and I made a mad dash from gate 17 down to 29 and were boarded at 7:30 for our new flight.

 

While on board, at 0800 the Captain announces we will have a 10-15 minute delay to de-ice, five minutes later he follows that up with another delay of 10-15 minutes because the cargo is late getting onto the aircraft. It was at this point I pulled a small “Travelodge” notepad from my carry-on and began jotting things down. A flight attendant named Claude must have noticed me do this, as he came over to say hello. I notified him that we had a 0955 flight and he replied there were other passengers with that same connection.

 

0831 Captain announces one cargo door is still to close, that he has been made aware of people’s connections and he will notify us ASAP on the conditions of these flights. It’s about this point I say to Bren, we will be missing our flight to Liberia.

 

0838 it’s announced we will be pushing back momentarily.

 

0840 Claude returns to ask where we are going. “Antigua.” “No, Costa Rica” I tell him. “Ohhhh. Right” he says.

 

0845 and the plane finally pushes back but then just sits there for 10 minutes.

 

The Captain announces at 0855 we will now be shuttling over to the de-icing station and then after that taking a quick tour over to runway 14 which is close by. Also, he reports he is aware of our connections and they are having their stock people work on that.

 

Not a cloud in the sky, nary a gust of wind, the temp outside is a cool -23C.

 

Take off finally comes at 0915... 1 hour and 15 minutes late.

 

It was 0951 while in the air, when I reported to Claude that our Liberia flight leaves in 4 minutes. I asked about the status on that flight but he said he didn’t know. He tried reassuring us by saying that “maybe United through Miami could take us.”

1002 and the Steward came on to tell us all to “refer to the computer screens in the terminal” as to the status of our flights. He also asked that any people not connecting wait seated once we land in order for those traveling onward to exit the plane quicker.

 

1007 we landed. Bren and I seated in row 17 with 40 or so passengers ahead of us were awestruck to see that only 3 people remained seated. Getting off the plane finally I asked the agent at the terminal gate where the Liberia flight was departing from. She said the gate number as she pointed to the window and a far off terminal that looked to be a kilometer, if not a mile away. I asked, “Can you call the gate and tell them we’re on our way?” “No,” was her only reply.

 

It was 1022 and Bren and I had sprinted across the airport to arrive at our terminal... of course, the plane was gone. I didn’t have the wind left in me to cuss and throw a tantrum, Bren lead us over to Air Canada International customer service at 1025 and by 1035 they had already asked the question “could you maybe chose another destination, there’s not another flight for a few days.” “I told them “NO!!!. THERE IS NO OTHER DESTINATION. GET US TO COSTA RICA.”

 

1100 rolled around and the new plan was just as Claude the flight attendant had predicted, United from Miami to Liberia. Bren and I met a fella name Kamy and his wife who were in the exact same boat as us, they too had chosen Air Canada Vacations to provide them with their tropical trip to paradise. The four of us sort of worked together from this point.

 

By 1155 The Customer Service had nearly wrapped everything up when just before leaving Brenda noticed they had booked us on a flight that arrived in Miami today at 1900, but with a connection through to Liberia earlier on the same day. Nice work Air Canada. It was fixed quick though.

 

1200 we left Customer Service to get our luggage. On the way to carousel#1 we were first required to clear Canada Customs. Strangely we hadn’t yet left the country.

 

It was 1220 when we arrived at the station for international baggage. No carousel#1 was there, we actually needed to get to domestic. An Air Canada rep gave us directions to get there which ended up leading us to another disgruntled and lost airport security lady whom told us to get into a customer service line and wait for assistance. Only 10 minutes went by and come 1230 we were at carousel#1, problem was, our luggage was nowhere to be seen. Bren quickly got behind the line of 28 others waiting to speak with the baggage counter while I checked other carousels.

 

1235 a hobo-looking-dood wished me luck. Said he’d been there 3 days searching for his treasured luggage. My honeymoon vacation coming to a suicidal bomb ending in Pearson Airport flashed before my eyes. At 1249 I looked over to see Bren had moved to number 16 in line. Number 16 was her father’s favorite number so I spared myself a gory demise and took it as a good omen.

 

Come 1300 at the baggage counter the worker explained it would be “a minimum of 3 hours to find the needles in the haystack. I suggest you go on ahead to your final destination and your luggage will get there sometime.” Leaving the counter I told Kamy and his wife the news. They had been waiting in line just a few people back from us. Onward to U.S. Customs we went.

 

1315 Bren and I got into another line at U.S. Customs and after a half hour wait we were two people away from the front of the line when Kamy showed up and said, “They found our luggage. Yours is probably back at baggage.” Bren and I approached the U.S. Customs person then at 1345 and explained we had to go back for our things and pleaded there be a way to skip the line upon returning as, we needed to catch our Miami flight. Her response, “Well, I guess that will be between you and all these other people in line.”

 

The time was 1420. Bren and I had recovered our things and actually come back to U.S. Customs to clear a shorter line. Five minutes after that I took time for some lunch and a beer.

 

2030 we were on the ground in Miami after a short delay on our Air Canada flight. We were quick to fall asleep a little later at the Marriott.

 

 

 

Day 2. PLAYA CONCHAL

http://www.paradisusplayaconchal.travel/

 

 

Miami airport was a zoo. It was here I think I encountered the greatest number of socially inept people employed anywhere on the continent. That being said, we cleared this Florida city rather quickly and touched down in Liberia by noon. Only 24 hours late.

 

There to greet us were a couple locos offering a ride to our resort. After briefly getting lost we arrived at Playa Conchal, a paradise on the Pacific shores of Guanacaste Costa Rica.

 

A garden resort embedded amongst the trees, this is the view from reception looking to the Pacific.

 

Our room wasn't ready upon arrival so we took a walk.

 

The Lions Paw. A Trent Jones golf course surrounds the property.

 

Playa Conchal meaning... Conch Shell Beach. Much of the whitish sand is actually granular remains of crushed conch shells.

 

496 rooms on the resort. For even more privacy one can rent a nearby condo and have access to all the amenities of Playa Conchal.

 

Finally our room is ready.

 

Everyday as it turned out the cleaning staff would get creative with our towels.

 

 

We unpacked quick so to get to the beach for a first sunset. It did not disappoint.

 

 

I ate a buffet supper feast of chicken, beef, pork, marlin, mahi mahi and maybe a veggie or two that evening. A real glutton right off the start.

 

After the meal Bren found her favorite form of evening entertainment. The Casino.

 

 

I on the other hand, found some creature comforts as well.

 

 

It was nice to be settled in. Bren and I had pretty much already solidified our weeks long excursion plans, and starting next day was the real fun.

 

 

Day 3. TERROR ON TENORIO.

 

 

Everyday at Playa Conchal had one constant, and that was the locust. These 4+ inch long grasshoppers were spotted at least once daily, and as wickedly cool as I felt they were, Bren had other thoughts about them.

 

 

After an early breakfast we caught a tour bus to take us to our first full day excursion. The plan was white water rafting on the Tenorio River.

 

On the drive there we had an excellent tour guide who passed along tonnes of interesting points about her homeland.

 

Costa Rica has had no military since 1948. Because of this, the government puts all revenue into their universal healthcare and education plans. The result is, a country which boasts the second highest literacy rate in the world, a staggering 97%.

 

People of Costa Rica do not pay tax. The government controls water and electricity so therefor payments made for those services are what fuels that economy. The only taxes come on alcohol and tobacco. Tourists paying the taxes on beer and spirits during vacation are actually putting Costa Rican children to school.

 

Pineapple was the countries biggest product for exportation until the late 90's, now, it is the microchip. Technology reigns supreme as the countries largest industry with tourism falling second. That reality may change though, as this country is rapidly becoming developed.

 

Costa Rica has 122 volcanoes, the highest being 3875 meters above sea level. Four of these volcanoes are continually active. Much of the countries electricity is harnessed from these thermal uprisings and wind is also their other environmentally friendly source.

 

27% of the country is protected National Park. Monte Verde is their largest, and National Geographic has a full-time base situated there. The country’s soil is so rich it is said that if you spit the seed of a fruit one year, the next year that plant will be growing there. Abundant vegetation and volcanic soils create the perfect mineral based land.

 

San Jose is the capital city and is located mid country. I believe she mentioned that 3/4's of Costa Rica’s 4.5 million people live in that area.

 

After the long trek into the mountains Bren and I arrived at our starting point on the Tenorio River. We were quick to meet our guides Roy and his younger brother Daniel (Rookie).

 

After a brief “how-to” riverside seminar we put the raft in about 80 feet above our first initiating class 4 rapid. Roy asked that if we pick up any hitch-hikers (spiders) on route that we quickly get them out of the boat. We shoved off and hit the chute....

 

 

 

 

First one got the adrenaline up. Bren was a little freaked being that she has quite a fear of water and cannot swim. This river for the next 3 hours did wonders to tame that. 40-50 sets of rapids with some being real mind benders were what laid in store for us. A camera man met up with the group at two more points along the way and took some great shots.

 

Second photographed rapid ahead....

 

Scouting it out...

 

Taking the plunge...

 

Surfing it out.

 

About 2/3's along the way the group hit a big one. It was a big drop with an instant 90 degree dog leg right before hitting a rock, then, another big drop. Of the 5 rafts, 3 capsized. First raft and then ours got through unscathed, and just before hitting another rapid we got hung up on a big rock. That turned out OK because as the other 3 rafts came down; flipping over and spitting paddlers in every direction into the river, our raft was able to nab two people quickly before hitting the next run.

 

The last rapid of the day was the biggest. It came in two parts but only the last part gets photographed. It was all just a total riot until this point.

 

 

 

I GOT WATER UP MY NOSE!!!

 

 

We made it. I like in this pic how Daniel (on his first Rookie day as Captain) is fooling around giving his big brother Roy a karate kick.

 

 

Long story short. The rafting was definitely a trip highlight. On the way back to the resort we were pretty darned tired. Bren and I were quick to get back and eat, capture a sunset, take in a show, have some drinks and then gamble a little money. Slept like a rock.

 

 

TO BE CONTINUED....

[Moosebunk]

Day 4. HACIENDA GUACHIPELIN.

http://www.guachipelin.com/

 

 

Another early start, Bren and I had a big day ahead on a canyon and horseback tour in Rincon de la Vieja National Park.

 

High winds earlier in the week had altered some of the trip operator's plans. So, for a tour that normally hosts 50-100 people, Bren and I were more than pleased to learn that we were the only two booked for the day, and, that we would therefor be getting a private tour.

 

Ronald was our driver and main guide for the trip. A well educated and super polite fella it was great taking the tour with him alongside. Like the guide the day before, he spoke interestingly about Costa Rica (meaning: Rich Coasts) all day.

 

Upon reaching Guachipelin we were suited up for the canyon. 9 zip-lines, 1 rappel, 1 tarzan swing and a couple climbing stations all amongst the visual splendors of a deep spring and volcanic canyon were the morning challenges.

 

 

 

The zip-lining was tres cool. The longest was well over 100 meters. (the longest in Costa Rica is actually 785 meters and has 2 people zipping together down an overall 400 foot drop through rainforest clouds)

 

 

Bren was pretty quick to set aside her minor fears of heights on this day.

 

 

 

When Bren reached the top the safety guide told her that he didn't even need to help her. She muscled through all on her own. Sadly, he didn't say the same to me.

 

 

The canyon done, next stop was a pit stop. Bren said she didn't need to go that bad after being greeted at the bathroom door by this thing.

 

Just the main body minus the antennae on this critter had to be nearly 5 inches long.

 

We took to the horses. Ronald tells us he's picked the finest steeds for our ride, Psycho and Killer are their names. I'm not much for saddle sores, but from time to time Bren sure takes pleasure having a stallion other than me to ride. (And no, that's not an invite Markus or Bill)

 

 

We rode the beasts to a waterfall then turned them ponies around and giddy-up'd back to da ranch.

 

 

 

Scenic spot.

 

What normally takes 8 hours with the large group we finished up in about five. Got back to the resort early which was nice. Gave us the chance to take a swim, have wee siestas in the sun, suck back some tropical rum based drinks and make reservations with one of the a la carte restaurants. Come evening we hit the Blackjack table and actually remained even after two hours of sin.

 

 

Day 5. EXPLORAR GUANACASTE.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guanacaste_Province

 

 

Nothing planned for the day Bren and I slept in until 8am. The locust was already up and sunbathing.

 

 

After breakfast it was decided we'd rent a moped, go on tour, have lunch somewhere and do some shopping.

 

Having had some recent vehicle rental issues I gave our ride a good going over. This chariot built not really for two was deemed unworthy.

 

 

Roads out there range from freaking horrible to freshly paved. One gaurantee though is that they'll all be windy somewhere. Zipping along at a max of 70km/hr was refreshing in the open air. Twenty klicks from the resort is the little surfer and beach resort town of Tamarindo so we headed there.

 

Arriving at the turnaround at the end of the road I parked the moped. A real mouthy and persistent loco transvestite barked spanish at me until I gave him $5 to watch my Harley for me while I was gone shopping.

 

 

We bought a few little things but our stomachs got the better of us. Day before I had asked Ronald where his favorite restaurant was, he answered "Golden Trip. In Brasilto." Golden Trip...??? I thought. Turned out "Trip was Shrimp" but the way he said it was messing with me Canuck mind. Anyhow, Brasilto was only about 25km's away so we skooted our butts over there for lunch and found the place with no problemos.

 

 

Fresh catch from the morning was red snapper, mahi mahi and fresh prawns. Bren went all shrimp while I had the snapper and prawn combo. DEELISH.

 

 

Late afternoon it was more poolside drinks, filling our faces and gambling. The show that night had great dancers doing retro-boogie. I asked for a scotch on the rocks at the bar and the tender filled me a beer glass full to the top with scotch. From that point on I ordered scotch every evening.

 

 

 

TO BE CONTINUED AGAIN.....

[Moosebunk]

Day 6 & 7. PESCA EN ENCANTO

 

 

All other days so far were making me miserable. NOT. But, these next two days which I left for last were the real good stuff. Our eerie friend wished us luck on our way to the deep sea.

 

 

Out of Flamingo we set sail by the power of twin Johnson 115hp 4 strokes, and while onward to the continental shelf's edge under the deep blue Pacific, I snapped some pics.

 

 

 

 

Life at sea was rich. Not so much on day 6 but on day 7 while inshore fishing did I get such a great show of wildlife. Stingray schools and individual fish were jumping everywhere. Flying fish. Sea turtles going solo and even mating. Two humpbacked whales, a few schools of dolphin, a mahi mahi chasing the teaser, baitfish feeding and birds diving all around set a grand stage for Bren and I. This big donkey sailboat was a nice site too.

 

 

But onto fishin' already...

 

20lb for mahi mahi and wahoo, 30lb for sailfish and yellowfin, 50lb for marlin.

 

12/0 for marlin.

 

Bren was drowsy on Gravol and hadn't yet got her sea legs when at 0935 the line on the port side outrigger fires. Very quickly the rod is off the Captain's deck and down into my hands. Feels GREAT to have that rip and tug.

 

No one knows what's on the line. The deckhands are quessing small marlin or big mahi mahi but the fish won't show itself. I don't much care... it's fun whatever it is.

 

At boatside we finally see it's a wahoo. Great. I never caught one before.

 

 

 

 

They guess it around 45-50lbs but I tell 'em by the time I'm 60 it'll be closer to 80.

 

I'm just shaking out the burn in my arms still when at 10:00 the Captain up top yells out MARLIN!!!

 

A huge fish comes smoking up through the propwash waves chasing a starboard teaser. It gives Bren a scare as it rolls up beside the boat swimming on it's side just below the surface. It's an oil slick of bright blue, silver and navy and as quick as it came it disappears into the abyss.

 

The Captain starts a figure eight pattern and the deckhands are at the ready. Minutes later a porpoising fin coming up the chute torpedoes right up between the teasers and pegs the lure. It so stupid on that you can't even imagine.

 

Bren is up. I motion her to the fighting chair but she's not only scared stiff the hands say, "NO YOU!!!" And when I get grip on that rod I was instantly tembling from the adrenaline rush.

 

The guides laughed after a minute or two when they saw both my legs bouncing off the toes of my feet while holding on to that fish. It took 5 minutes or so just to get control of my own body and collect my frazzled mind to think straight.

 

 

The marlin pulled unlike any other thing I have ever experienced. A lot of boat work needed to be done just to keep up with it, sometimes the Captain had to put the throttle right down to lay chase. It was nothing on this one surface run for the fish to peel off 60-70 yards in mere seconds heading straight back from the boat. When it did crap like that, with both hands on the rod it felt like the fish was splitting me straight down my spine.

 

The hands were cheering and yelling "REEL REEL REEL" so much so that one would think they were in the chair. One handed me a full bottle of water during the fight and I downed it in 3 gulps. Sweating from every pore and aching from fingertips, through arms, shoulders, scapula, back and right to hips I was exhausting faster than anytime I can ever remember in my life.

 

 

It was a tough task for Bren to get pics. The boat was whipping around not just from the waves but from the maneuvering. Two co-captain deckhands, me, a fighting chair, sometimes the boats structures and two outboards all were obstacles. Bren had to stay back out of the way on the starboard side, find her sea legs best she could and expect to capture the marlin while my camera was stupidly set to macro because the wahoo shots hadn't actually been taken yet and the last pics were of fishing hooks. Suffice it to say, the few glimpses she managed as pics were not at high percentage for quality. That said, she did get one that really counted.

 

 

A marlin is nuts. Diving, jumping or running it did all of it with immense strength and an unpredictable lightening fast speed. The fish dominated me to a point where I didn't even care if the fight ended, yet, unable to reel because of not being able to hold the rod with just one hand, nor grip all that well with my fingers on the retrieve, I just wouldn't say die. I wasn't strapped into the chair and I was getting a blister on my thumb and tight muscles in my calves from trying to brace myself at times from going forward.

 

The Captain kept the boat moving and sure enough the fish got to port side where one deckhand made an attempt to cut the line just above the 10 foot 120lb leader. He missed. The fish slowly krept back, trying to sound, and so to remedy this he came over and sinched my drag tight. When he did this I lifted up out of the chair to my feet from the weight of this diving beeyotch of a fish.

 

Both arms burning to just hold on I yelled at him right then, "it's too tight loosen it." And so, as one hand went to do so the other guy told him no. The fish was hardly away, probably just 10 feet below the boat. But, when it dove hard again and pulled me to my feet, I fought to sit and moments later leaned back hard on the marlin and the line snapped.

 

I was like stunned. The boys were happy as pigs in poop and they congratulated me and pat me on the back. The fish they told me was 400 to 450 pounds and there was no way it was ever coming in the boat. The plan was a release by cutting the line at the leader but just that I didn't know that. So, when they missed, the tightened the drag knowing they would lose the line.

 

Truth of it all was, I didn't have a milli-ounce of energy left to go on. This marlin was a battle which left me absolutely humbled, postively spirited, and somewhat physically nauseated. It was godly for me to just experience.

 

Very short time after the marlin Bren's chance came at 1150 when she sat down for a challenge of her own with a feisty mahi mahi.

 

 

Didn't take my girl that long at all really. She proves again that she can fish with the best of them. I lost a mahi mahi of my own later in the day actually. Good thing she caught this fish cause we couldn't have had fresh mahi mahi for dinner that night had she not.

 

 

1345 and 1435 two more marlin came up on the teasers but were not hooked. Thank God for that, unless they were maybe 100-150 lbs or so. Haha.

 

I couldn't say enough about the amazement of fishing come the end of that day.

 

 

Fast forwarding, the second half day (day#7) of inshore fishing ended as a skunk. I had wished we'd gone back to the deep sea but it was Bren's vacation too and she had scheduled appointments for a massage, pedicure and other pamperings.

I'll live.

 

 

Day 8. ADIOS.

 

 

Final day. Time to go home. Outside our door on the wall waited the usual freakish pest.

 

 

And we made our way out.

 

 

The trip back to Canada was pretty uneventful this time around, but, after picking up the kids and staying back in Ottawa for a few days we were forced to fly again with Air Canada to get home. True to form they didn't disappoint us this time. We were dealt one bizitch stewardess who gave Bren some attitude; and was speechless after Bren gave it right back putting her in her place. Yet, when we arrived in Timmins the Air Canada counter said because my bags were checked right through to Moosonee as my final destination I should "technically" not have been made aware nor seen this...........

 

 

.......... and so it is therefor Air Canada's policy that I am to make the damage complaint at my final destination with an Air Canada customer service there. I said, "You know full well I'm flying AirCreebec to Moosonee now, there's no Air Canada counter in Moosonee. What are you trying to do, pawn off the damages on AirCreebec? What is you name?" I asked the AC rep. "Jenifer." "Jenifer" what I asked, while reaching for my trusty Travellodge notepad." "Just Jenifer," she replies.

 

"I can't believe you people with Air Canada," I announced. "I know, Air Canada sucks." replied their Timmins service rep "just Jenifer."

 

 

 

DAS FINITOS

[irishfield]

Wasn't "Captain White or Captain McLeod" was it ! LOL Hope not.. or I'll kick them for you bunk!

 

Sounds like in the grand scheme of things... you had a GREAT time Drew. Too bad about the Marlin "release" though.

[HTHM]

What a wonderful report! I see the honeymoon was a great time, despite the nonsense from Air Canada. Thanks for sharing this with us.

[Moosebunk]

They didn't see it as too bad at all. That's the way it's done Wayne, fish get's cut off once they get it boatside. It's not like you can put your hands on a fish that big and hold it for a pic either. It's like a thrashing 8 to 10 foot long fish with a spear on it's nose. They don't keep 'em that size either where we were. They release all billfish.

 

I found it weird at first cause I didn't know it was going to happen, but I understood later on.

[huntervasili]

Wow Great report Bunk! thanks for sharing those awesome pics with us. almost like I was watching ya the whole way. Thanks and what a great time

[tbayboy]

Amazing report Bunk, your Marlin story gives Hemmingway a run for the money.

[TennesseeGuy]

Hey Bunk, thanks for a fabulous report. We appreciate your taking the time and going toall the effort.

 

I'll be passing this one on to others.

[solopaddler]

Drew, that was epic man!

What an amazing report and an even more incredible trip!!

Thoroughly enjoyed reading that, big thanks for taking the time.

[fatherof3]

great report and pics,looks like an amazing place to go.

[Smokey]

Great job on the report Moose. Thanks for all the great pics as well.

[BillM]

That report was great!!! Perhaps you should have brought home one of those ugly buggers for bait in the spring?

[LeXXington]

Always a super read and the pic's WOW

[Crazyhook]

what a report!

 

dude that Wahoo is just awesome!!

[Mark Kulik]

Wow! that brings back memories , we loved Costa Rica, nice Wahoo, you'll remember that trip for a while!

[Bernie]

That was a terrific report Moosebunk! The marlin must have been a blast. My brother hooked into a shark deepsea'n a couple years back. Same thing happened to him, no way they were bringing in the shark. Aching muscles for a couple days after. You had a great time it appears. Well except for your A+ report of the E-minus Air Canada.

[douG]

Many thanks, Andrew. Just a wonderful report.

[Joey]

Wow Drew, now that was a report. I loved it. Had to take a few breaks while I read it, but made it through and it was fantastic!!!

 

Love the pics and the stories. I noticed the bucket under Bren in the fish fighting chair, is that in case someone craps themselves fighting a monster, hahahahahaha.

 

Thanks for the awesome report.

 

Joey

[addict]

the pictures speak a thosand words very sweet trip.

[Dondorfish]

Absolutely an awsome report - one of the most enjoyable - well, since your last report!

 

 

Don

[steverowbotham]

im jealous, and now more looking forward to my February trip to Costa Rica

[Hooked]

WOW, that was a stellar and a half post! Were there any mosquitos out there, or similar irritating bugs like them at night? Perhaps ones that can take yer freakin finger off? Can't believe how freakish those bugs looked, and HUGE! I bet a 2lb fish out there fights like a 20lb salmon here, what a treat all that musta been. Looked like an awesome time.

[blizzcat]

wow. great pictures!

the trip looked perfect to me, great ideas for things to do, and it looked completely amazing.

did it cost a small fortune?? (sorry if thats tactless. haha i'm always wondering how much things like that cost)

nice post, i enjoyed reading all about your adventures, except for air canada being a big failure of course

[Photoz]

WHEW W W W W . . . . . . I'm sure glad I went to high speed . . . . it used to take a half hour to go through one of your reports on dial-up . . . . . . better'n readin' a big, fancy book . . . . . makes me feel like I'm right there too!! Now . . . . . how many weeks do ya need off to rest up from your vacation? Best report I've seen since YOUR last one!! Now I need a vacation . . . . I'm exhausted just reading about yours!