Fisherman

-Fisherman, this unit is fairly small...I think anyways. Its really not that bigs at all. Overall when its in the soft case its about the same size as a car battery id say. Once opened up its even more compact. I did see those smaller units at BassPro last night as well (not exactly the one you linked) and the cable is bloody flimsy it just feels weak. Its close to 18ga thermostat wire. I think the one you linked has a bigger screen, but the ones they had there last night were very tiny screens. Similar to an i phone. I'll agree, it's pretty thin cable, so far I haven't heard of anyone breaking off or having a pike swallow the camera.

The only thing I don't like about the full size models, they take up a pile of space and the cable is a royal pain. If it wasn't for the price I'd be getting one of these: http://www.aquavu.com/Products/Aqua-Vu-New-Underwater-Cameras/AV-Micro-5

I could tell you why but it would be deemed a politically incorrect answer and I'd get banned from this website.

You have cross contanimated yourself by touching diffewrent spots, and for godsakes don't scratch your jewlery bag or johnson.

Really thick oatmeal paste or the Jewelweed, rub the leaves and squeeze what liquid you get right on the spot.

I'll tell you what, without making it a them and us or these and those ones, it can happen to any country that is controlled by an elite group. They/we/most of us, don't have a revenue problem, we have massive spending problems, right from the bottom of the pile, Joe /Jane Public to the top of the Government heap. People keep spending beyond their means. Every little p/ant self centered group crys the blues and has money thrown at it. Stop it and only spend money where it is realy needed. If you run a deficit and have a debt, you will never see the light at the end of the tunnel..other than the train that's going to run your sorry butt over. If you want a 60 inch flat screen in every room with a bathroom for every room in the house, you either have the money to pay for it or you are in debt...'til death do you part from it.

The big thing I would question is dragging it around on the ice with no floor unless it's only going to one spot for the whole season.

Power steering is definitely good to have, takes the punishment out of "old shoulders". I think if it wasn't for Poopularis and Canned Ham having low prices and attempting to flood the market, most would probably buy, Yam, Kawa, and Suzuki. Although Honda makes excellent power equpment, they have been slow on getting with the program for ATV's. Arctic cow paddy wouldn't even make the list.

You really don't think the tax man is going to give you a free pass the taxman card. If they could put a meter onthe toilet bowl, I'm sure the'd tax that too.

What Drifter said for the basic fridge and sump pump, a 2K will squeek by, a 3K will be far more than needed. Do yourself a favour and avoid the knock off models, stick with a Honda or Yamaha, they are reliable and proven to work and not make you deaf.

2.5 watts at 12v is like trying to fill an empty 100 litre tank with 10 litres, some people just don't understand.

Nice pictures for sure. My mom had a bit of a funny saying, kids aren't really yours, they're only on loan until they leave the nest, then you realize how fast time flys. My oldest just turned 31 the other day, where did it all go....

Are you saying that at present you have the 12V fish finder batteries in parallel with the bow mount trolling motor battery? If so, you are killing the fish finder batteries at the same time. If not, I would leave them (FF) batteries separate, fish finders usually take less than 1 amp/hr to run and with 2 of them, you should be good for a week anyway. If you are using 2 trolling motor batteries, doesn't matter which way you go, in parallel together they will provide twice the time as one alone, so you are no further ahead. Keeping the one trolling battery in case of emergency is a good idea if you're down the river, if you are up --its creek, the current will float you back. You can get a multi position high amperage switch to use either #1, #2, both or both off. You can't wire the FF batteries into that circuit.

Do the oil changes yourself and you'll probably save half the price.

Because you're curious and some thing just need fixin

One would think that "started" means just commenced, but anyway, they have been there for a while and probably another month and half if not more.

Well then they must have finally got their act together. Countless times I've gone their for their special sales only to find out they were either out of stock, stock wasn't arriving or the old bait and switch technique. Last time was this spring, they wnted $387 for a Minn Kota trolling motor that Sail had on for $260. I'll drive the same distance and pocket the $127 plus tax.

I think you're about a month late, they've been in the rivers for some time now.

Oh gawd, this is beyond fubar. Are the two tow vehicles the same make? Some actually have a 5 pin conector for the brake controller(Some Ford and GM trucks if I'm not mistaken) and then the brake controlers don't like to work. If they are different then maybe that's the issue. Or, there's a hot short somewhere with you getting +12V that's feeding from the vehicle trailer plug, through the trailer and back into the tow vehicle. What happends when you disconnect the brake controller from the vehicle with the trailer plugged in? (Just disconnect the cable at the back of the brake controller).

I was working dispatch that night, one of the very few places that had power at the station. Even the A/C was working.

Okay, in addition, went out this morning with my ohm meter, I get a 2.1 to 2.2 ohm reading. If you get a zero, you have a dead short, if you get much higher than what I get, it's wired in series. My trailer brakes are wired as follows, the wire from the trailer plug(bottom left contact) goes to one wire(doesn't matter which side of the trailer or which of the two wires), connected there and then goes across to the other side of the trailer and connected to one wire. The other wire from the plug ground(bottom left contact) goes to the other remaining wire one the first brake and continues across to the other side remaining wire. That's it. I'm highly suspecting the wires inside the axle may be highly corroded and or the insulation is brittle, fallen off and may well be causing the ground shorting problem for the brakes. You say the fuse for the brake controller is shorting out now, with the trailer connected or not? Without the trailer connected, then there's something wrong with the wiring inside the van. Usually, (not always) the brake controller wiring runs black is positive, white is ground, blue is the trailer hot brake wire and the other colour is the wire that gets power on the "dead" side of the van brake switch when you step on the brake. Let us know how it goes.

If I'm not mistaken the deepest part is off the end of Avery Point towards the N/E, the rest is sort of a basin from 10-14 feet deep.

Some of the brake controllers are motion activated, some of the others are activated on a time basis, the longer you hold the brake pedal down, the more power is provided and the harder the brakes engage. I have to ask the inevitable, did you wire the brakes in series(one long loop) or in parallel? If you did series, it won't work, must be parallel. Did you run the ground wire from the brakes to the frame or to the trailer plug? If you know how to use an ohm meter, check and see what the reading is on the electric brakes alone, not connected to anything. I'll check mine to see what the reading is, tomorrow, too dark right now.

Definitely a great trip, like those sunset pictures.

Then again, most quebecers don't speak real french either, bunch of jibberish of made up words with an accent added. First time I went to get a tune up for the car and asked for a courroi , he looked at me kinda strange(fan belt) they call it a strap. Next, ajuster les soupapes, valve adjustment, after that, the mechanic just said point to what you want done.