Fisherman

Items that have integrated electronics with timers such as microwaves, some TV's, computers, etc may well not because most of the cheaper inverters are not a clean true sine wave. Most modified sine wave inverters may/will run motorized equipment although the motors may not run at the specified speed or get a "little warm". A small 120V AC pump may draw around 10-15 watts and even the cheapest of the 100watt inverters will suffice. Some come broken out of the box. I had 2 from CTC that wouldn't even power a 9 watt curly tail bulb at the trailer. Then I paid for a good one, no problems.

Short answer, NO, battery powered ones are usually, 3-12 volt DC, household ones are 120volt AC. That said, you can get better quality ones compared to the chinese junk. Or, you can go with a larger 12 volt battery, 100 watt AC inverter and then use your house pump.

If you want speed then you want Scotty's.

If you have a 12 volt battery of any size, take 2 wires, battery negative to the ground side of the trailer plug, (it's the one that has the cover around it). Take the other wire from the battery positive and insert it into each one of the the other holes, you'll find out what light's up and what doesn't and if any bulbs are pooched. As for useing the trailer ball/coupler are your ground, only lazy people do that. Run a dedicated ground from each light socket to a central spot and up to the white trailer connector. The biggest annoyance is some turnip going down the road with lights blinking cause they don't have a proper ground. Ya don't know if they're going to stop, turn left/right or attempting lift off.

Go to Princess Auto or CTC and get the 7 pin flat blade connector for the vehicle end. Use the same 5 wires he did, the other 2 are for trailer power from the tow vehicle and reverse lights, neither are really needed.

Hard to feel an earthquake when you ride an ATV for work....

x2 what Art said and if you stop somewhere for lunch/gas put it in the truck, how long does it take to unwind a couple of wingnuts.

Thanks for the info wayne.

Why anyone would use pressure treated is a little beyond me. Albeit the bunks may only be in the water for a short period of time, I really don't think immersing PT wood in the lake is a wise idea. Secondly, how deep into the wood do you think the actual PT goes? Maybe one mm. Cedar on the other hand has the natural oils to prevent rot and for the amount of time the bunks spend in water, I'd dare say the cedar will hold up as long as any PT'ed spruce or pine.

What..no diapers..looks pretty pristine.

Cedar, hard enough it won't damage and is naturally rot resistant.

If he keeps the pikes jaws shut long enough, the pike can't "breath" and will die of oxygen starvation.

He doesn't need the 4 to 5 converter, he can use the 4 wire system at the back of the truck that's already there for the 4 pin.

An eagles head in Pic # 1.

2-3 hours, that's criminal. Maybe with a couple coffe breaks and lunch included. Princess Auto carries the brake controllers from $85 to $130.

Number one, what brand of truck and how old? Most (about 2000 and newer) domestics and some imports have a plug under the dash that the wiring harness for the brake controller plugs into. Unfortunately those that don't means more work. If you don't have the trailer package, then you need to run at least one more wire from the front to rear 7 pin connector. Left/Right/Park/Trailer Brake/Ground. The other 2 are for reverse lights on trailer and one to charge the trailer battery, I don't use either of those two. Most of the brake controllers come with pretty explicit instructions, pay real close attention to the colour codes, white is negative, black is positive, blue is trailer brake and the other colour(usually red or red stripped) is the tow vehicle brake signal to turn the brake controller on. If you have to add wiring through the firewall, sometimes theres a rubber plug than can be knocked out or poked through to get the wiring through it and run it along the frame rails to the back. You can get rid of the rear 4 pin conector and run those wires into the 7 pin. If you ever need to use a 4 pin connector, there are adapters readily available. More questions, ask away. If you don't do it yourself, I would go to an RV place. They install enough of them to prevent problems that some have no idea what they're doing.

Yes, they had all three colours available, I have the greyish ones, fit well.

Nice find Capt Hooked.. . And I'm pretty sure they didn't have motor boats and nylon nets then either.

You realize you just cost me $99...not often I spend that much for shades. Definitely nice and hopefully won't scratch as easy as the plastic ones. 2 year warranty to boot.

I know, there's discrepancies, and the top line says...Regulations are current to 2013-04-16 and last amended on 2011-07-29..left and right hands are shaking but not each other if you know what mean.. I'd also bet that if you threw that one to the MNR, they would have to go for a triple dose of rogaine, no hair left to scratch.

Ya'll better read para 2. (1) and (a) of the second link. The common MNR Regs are not the end to end all regulations. 2. (1) These Regulations apply in Ontario.

Hmm, unless I can't read, the first link is to the MNR Ontario regs(the common ones everybody reads) and the second one is Ontario fishery regulations, absolutely nothing to do with Federal.

Why the $1299, call it $1300 for the extra dollar + the $75 prep + the tax on all that. Drive south for the day and save.

Even if gas was 10 cents a litre, it would never be used to run a generator to watch huckey.

Never understood new math, but that equation is right.