Fisherman

No, unless you have a 24 volt charger which I doubt you have. Either use a 2 bank charger which has 2 blacks and 2 reds, one set goes to each battery or use you single 12volt charger one one battery at a time, no need to undo the other wiring.

Now that's a damm good explanation.

1, 2, 3...25, 26...hopefully you have good shoulders when it decides it doesn't want to start on the first or second pull.

I'm thinking they used the term "water" instead of glycol or a glycol mix to prevent freezing and corrosion. Then again, there's always some stupid Darwin awardee's that can't follow simple instructions when conducting repairs. You know, add water to your car rad in great quantities and it will freeze in the winter. Neglect batteries on the off season and wonder why filtered try again please don't work next spring. Leave the sun roof open and wonder why the cars full of water. and it goes on and on, there's almost an award for everyone if you try hard enough.

Cosmos, stop playing with the plastic cap on your johnson, only girls do that.

No oversight at all. I would tend to believe there's probably a healthy dose of antifreeze/anti corrosive/anti rust or whatever you want to call it in the pipes, just like automotive heating. I've seen a few from distance, I haven't seen anyone swinging a sledge hammer in madness cause the pipes froze. Way back in the '70's, they ran above ground steam heating in insulated pipes on a Radar Base I worked at. Never a problem even at -30.

I just fired up a brand new one at work a week ago. Just like the old ones, lever up to light, wait a minute or so then turn down to run. By far more heat than the propane ones. My own is a dual fuel, two burner, still going strong after 23 years. If you read the instructions, the likelyhood of having an accident with a naphtha stove is pretty remote. I've been using them since the late 60's. The only time I ever had a flare up is when you don't wait to the generator tube to get hot. As for the Easi lite models, they can be hit and miss. Take care of your kit and your kit takes care of you.

Nice info, thanks for the post.

Lansky hasn't let me down in at least 25 years.

"Different server", I dunno, last time we got minnows there, it was a nice little blond, maybe 20 years old. I wouldn't care if she could boil water, she gave us one monster sized scoop of minnows. Heck she could even be my boat bunny.

And these blowbaggers are supposed to be good sailors, hate to see that nitwit in the water.

Glen, you have a PM.

Okay, Smokestack, is there something you don't get from the link posted above that came directly from the Transport Canada Marine website? Glen is not looking for babbling or hypothysis, nobody said there was a "pink" slip. The ownership is the "bill of sale" you know, receipt, nobody is talking about the licence or registration. "O W N E R S H I P"

Bring her a big Timmies and muffin.

I'll have to wait until I get home but I'm pretty sure it's for all vessels regardless of motive power. It's just proof of ownership to alleviate any questions when you get asked. I keep all mine in one of those waterproof little boxes along with copies of Op card and fishing licence, radio op card, etc.

Does the licence prove the ownership of my pleasure craft? A licence does not prove that you own your pleasure craft. You must carry separate ownership documents with you. Cut and copied from here: http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/marinesafety/debs-obs-paperwork-paperwork_boat_licence-3211.htm#g7 Proof of ownership has absolutely nothing to do with vessel size or motor size

Definitely yes, go check the Transport Canada Marine site for the minimum required paperwork.

The ownership is the bill of sale you got at the auction, if you chucked it..go see a public notary and they'll swear out an avidavit for a small sum. The vessel registration/licence is not an ownership. Once you have the ownership, then you can get the vessel licenced(boat number).

Starting batteries have thinner plates and put out large current for a short time, deep cycle ones are the reverse. Most of the so called deep cycle/RV/Marine batteries are a hybrid, not quite one or the other. Real deep cycle batteries such as those used in golf carts, fork lifts, etc are pretty big and heavy, thicker plates. For the average Joe or Joan angler, the hybrids do the job and if the batteries are treated right will serve you a long time.

Use the standard setting, it will be fine. It's a standard lead acid flooded cell, not absorbed glass mat or gell.

Okay, somethings going ito space here, twice I send a "sorry didn't see it" with the quote and then it disappears. I think it's time for a new computer.

Something like this one: http://www.basspro.com/Power-Bubbles-Aerator/product/20898/

I had shooz, can't remember if they came with laces, don't know if they were black or brown or had straps. Now how about you give us the brand, model, etc and maybe we can help you out. PA carries a lot of parts.

Items that have integrated electronics with timers such as microwaves, some TV's, computers, etc may well not because most of the cheaper inverters are not a clean true sine wave. Most modified sine wave inverters may/will run motorized equipment although the motors may not run at the specified speed or get a "little warm". A small 120V AC pump may draw around 10-15 watts and even the cheapest of the 100watt inverters will suffice. Some come broken out of the box. I had 2 from CTC that wouldn't even power a 9 watt curly tail bulb at the trailer. Then I paid for a good one, no problems.