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What can go wrong WILL go wrong - advice needed


Sterling

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As I described in previous threads, I have this awesome week-long trip planned in James Bay. Leaving Wednesday.

 

I've been preparing for this for months. To avoid any issues mechanically, I had everything checked and professionally maintained.

 

The 25hp 4-stroke merc went to the marina for low gearcase and oil change, winterizing, etc.

 

Last week I took the boat out to make sure everything worked. Trolling motor, transducer, outboard, batteries, everything was 100% ready to go. I had tested everything in the garage but wanted to take the boat for a spin anyway.

 

So I'm packing a few final things today when the wife asks "why is your motor leaking oil?"

 

Sure enough, there's a clear leak from right under the prop. I pop the prop off, lo-and-behold there is CLEAR damage to the prop shaft seal. You can easily see it here;

 

http://imgur.com/a/Yhx2N

 

So now I'm in a HUGE scramble to get this fixed. I located a dealer with the seals in stock and purchased them 10 minutes before close. I then called every marina in the area and managed to find a guy willing to fix it before Wednesday.

 

So my question is HOW does this happen? There was no fishing line in the prop... and I believe the dealer puts new seals when the oil is changed???

 

Could it be that there was water in there, it froze and blew the seal out?

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So my question is HOW does this happen? There was no fishing line in the prop... and I believe the dealer puts new seals when the oil is changed???

 

Could it be that there was water in there, it froze and blew the seal out?

 

I wouldn't expect the dealer to replace the seals when the oil is changed. If you're lucky, they may put new gaskets in the two screws in the lower end.

 

Was the oil a milky colour? That would indicate water in the oil.

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I wouldn't expect the dealer to replace the seals when the oil is changed. If you're lucky, they may put new gaskets in the two screws in the lower end.

 

Was the oil a milky colour? That would indicate water in the oil.

 

Nope, not milky. I'm told that means the interior seal is keeping water out.

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Like JohnBacon said, you might get new screw gaskets. I suspect they may have pressure pumped the new oil in a bit too vigorously and blew the seal out. Same thing happens when you over grease bearing buddies. As for the interior seal keeping the water out...hmmm.

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A 12 year old can change the lower gear oil. I know that because I can now. Get your self the hand pump from CTC or any marine dealer and do it yourself from now on. Make sure you change the "O" rings on both the drain and vent every time you change it. Depending on how many hours one puts on an engine annually it doesn't hurt to change the gear lube more than once a season. You Tube will have several videos of it being done. Once I saw it done I smacked myself upside my noggin for not doing it myself all those years. Many times marinas don't bother to change the 99 cent O rings or drop them on the ground and don't put them back in. Nor do they check the magnet on the screw plug for filings depending on who's doing the job. For a 25 it might cost you 10 bucks in oil and gasket rings, takes 10 minutes.

 

Do it in the Fall that way you won't forget when you are hot to get the boat in next spring. I even use the old gear oil to soak my needle nose in before the winter and wipe the bottom of the lawnmower shroud before putting it away for the winter.

Edited by Old Ironmaker
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I change my own as well but have tried several adapters that screw onto your jug and they all suck. I usually make a big mess but it does work. Has anyone found a good jug adapter filler that works without having the hose pup off the spout?

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A 12 year old can change the lower gear oil. I know that because I can now. Get your self the hand pump from CTC or any marine dealer and do it yourself from now on. Make sure you change the "O" rings on both the drain and vent every time you change it. Depending on how many hours one puts on an engine annually it doesn't hurt to change the gear lube more than once a season. You Tube will have several videos of it being done. Once I saw it done I smacked myself upside my noggin for not doing it myself all those years. Many times marinas don't bother to change the 99 cent O rings or drop them on the ground and don't put them back in. Nor do they check the magnet on the screw plug for filings depending on who's doing the job. For a 25 it might cost you 10 bucks in oil and gasket rings, takes 10 minutes.

 

Do it in the Fall that way you won't forget when you are hot to get the boat in next spring. I even use the old gear oil to soak my needle nose in before the winter and wipe the bottom of the lawnmower shroud before putting it away for the winter.

 

It's the prop shaft seal that needs changing (inner and outer), that part seems quite complicated, at least for a soft-skinned office-goer like myself.

 

You definitely won't get seals changed unless you ask to have them changed

 

As stated you get fresh gear oil and SHOULD get new gaskets on the dram screws

 

I'll have to remember to ask next time, I guess.

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floater,

 

They don't all suck, I bought my pump at CTC, no problem with it. It is made specifically for doing this job. It is pretty simple. I did have to buy a proper fitting for my 15HP Mariner, the fitting that came with it fit the 115 Mariner but not the 15. The 15 needed a Yamaha fitting. A pal bought one but the tube was too short to get to the bottom of the plastic jug. A trip to Home Hardware and a few bucks for a longer tube.

 

Sterling,

 

I know it is a different seal, I was just talking about the lower gear oil change you said you get done for you. As far as the prop seal I have been working on marine jobs with the guys out here for the last 5 years and never heard of that seal going, yet.

Edited by Old Ironmaker
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I change my own as well but have tried several adapters that screw onto your jug and they all suck. I usually make a big mess but it does work. Has anyone found a good jug adapter filler that works without having the hose pup off the spout?

 

I wish they still sold the lower end oil in the tubes. It was easier to add the oil from a tube without the pump kit than it is to use the kit with the bottle.

 

I wonder why they changed.

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One thing I always do is put the motor in gear( I use reverse) while towing. This stops the prop from spinning on the highway. The seals are meant to be submerged in water, not dry like they are when towing. This won't help you now, but on a long trip would be good to do.

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One thing I always do is put the motor in gear( I use reverse) while towing. This stops the prop from spinning on the highway. The seals are meant to be submerged in water, not dry like they are when towing. This won't help you now, but on a long trip would be good to do.

 

I do the same. That is what I was taught when I took my outboard motor repair course.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update:

 

So I managed to get the seal replaced at the 11th hour. The tech replaced the seal and said he ran the motor for 20 minutes without issue.

 

Towed the boat 1100km to James Bay and blew the seal again on the first outing. Clearly something else is wrong, probably a bent shaft or something.

 

Luckily I had my trusty trolling motor but was confined to a bay near camp.

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I change my own as well but have tried several adapters that screw onto your jug and they all suck. I usually make a big mess but it does work. Has anyone found a good jug adapter filler that works without having the hose pup off the spout?

I use the cheapo pump as well but replace the tubing with the rubber hose that carries washer fluid to your wipers. Don't forget to cut the end of the nozzle if it hooks downward as some do. Works fine.

Edited by moxie
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Oh I feel for you Sterling. Plan a big trip way up there and have mechanical problems. The shaft is bent I would bet.

 

I would never run a motor on the ear muffs for 20 minutes. Running at low RPM on dry land and running under load is a world of difference. Revving over idle speed on muffs is also bad or putting the engine in gear for more than a few seconds is discouraged as well.

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I ran my 15 HP Mariner kicker for 4 hours without oil added to the gas. Long story my responsibility. To make it worse the battery died and I came in wide open throttle on it for 5 klics at least. Finally the plug completely fried a few hundred feet from my slip. Only damage was the plug. Says a lot for a Mariner I'd say. So we all have had bad stuff happen. If you haven't had something go bad boating, yet either a) you haven't been boating for long or B) see A.

Edited by Old Ironmaker
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Here's another story. Had my boat on the water for a week on Temgamini and noticed a small fuel line on my boat was leaking. I found the closest marina on the water and headed for them. Thought my vacation was over. I called them before hand to let them know I was coming. As I pulled up to the marina barely getting there cause there was not a lot of fuel getting to the engine. I saw a teenager come over and he told me he was going to look at my boat. I thought to myself that's it the boats done for the rest of the week. Some kid is not going to fix my boat . Anyways he worked on it for about a half hour and fixed it lol. That kid saved my vacation.

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I'm not one to carry spare plugs unless I am away for a week or so and remote. No way I am about to tread water to change a plug. I can hardly get to the bottom plug on land. But I do carry some tools, a sharp knife, a spare fuel filter, electrical ties and of course duct tape. If anything it impresses other fisherman when they see my tools especially the duct tape. Older marine 2 stroke systems, I have zero experience with 4 stroke, are pretty simple. I bet 50% of on water breakdowns are simply loose wires and or fuel lines even I can give a quick fix. All it takes to run is spark, fuel/oil and air.

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Another option for ya would have been to pump the lover full of grease. Not ideal but could have got ya by for a week. Just keep adding grease every day to remove the water . I ran a old 65 merc with grease in the lower for a few years. Like I said it's not ideal but it will keep it alive.

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