Me Spud.

[DanD]

Shop slowed down this afternoon and decided to do some clean up. Well that lasted until I found a scrap piece of 3/8" plate steel. Hum I have a place for you and started cutting out the blade for a spud.

 

It's 8" long overall and 2" wide; the four teeth are 1/2" wide each. I ground and filed the teeth to approx 30°. I then tempered this mild steel by heating the blade until bright red and then dousing it into motor oil, until it cooled to handle.

Then I sandblasted it to remove the slag from the oil.

Tonight when I get home, I'll heat treat it in the oven; to take away its brittleness.

Next will be to weld the 7/8" diameter steel pipe to it, give it a final sharpening and a coat of paint.

The question I have, what length should I make the handle/pipe; for ease of use?

Also is a tee handle with a tether strap OK?

 

Dan.

 

[davey buoy]

All I can say Dan is my t handle is 9.5",so even if I am trying to break a old hole ,it can't go down. I don't use a tether,but then again I don't travel iffy ice.It's about 5' tall.

[Sinker]

I don't like a T handle, because I have been smacked in the head by it....hahaha......

 

Need something to tie a rope to though for sure.

 

I like a long, thin bit on mine. I find they penetrate best. A piece of old leaf spring sharpened up works really good.

 

Gotta have a good spud.

 

S.

[grimsbylander]

That's a great looking spud Dan. Just an FYI: Mild steel only has about .5% Carbon and for that reason, cannot be hardened. Tempering is actually the second step in treating carbon steel whereas you reheat the steel to a much lower temp in order to soften the steel slightly which will make it less brittle.

 

Good luck on the ice!

[DanD]

Not sure what this plate steel was from; but after I tempered it, the same file I used to shape it, barely scratches it now?

 

I don't like a T handle, because I have been smacked in the head by it....hahaha......

 

Was that because the tee was so big or was your head in the wrong place at the wrong time? LOL

 

5' long sounds good to me; I can always change the length, if its not comfortable for me to use.

 

Dan.

[misfish]

No old leaf springs hanging around Dan? Thats your ticket right there for a nice spud blade.

[DanD]

I did and thought I had it hidden away pretty good; but the midnight scrappers must have wanted it more then me?.

If it's not nailed or chained down, its gone the first night, if left outside; the second night if whatever was, along with the chain securing it. LOL

 

Dan.

[aplumma]

DanD you actually did harden the mild steel with the process it is not up to tool steel grade. The heating and quenching of the steel is key to forming the carbon crystals that raise the steels hardness. You can use glycol which is less flammable and in most cases will not crack the metal like water that cools the metal to quickly.This process then needs to be annealed which is to reheat the metal and slow cooling it. You can run it up to depending on what Rockwell scale you need IF you have the correct carbon content. You need 6-10% with a few other ingredients in the iron to get to 58 or above. You can also make a piece of hardened steel that when slapped on an anvil will actually shatter because as you make steel harder you make it brittle. An example is a knife blade that will hold an sharp edge and needs to be sharpened infrequently is a rockwell scale of 58-60 but when it needs to be sharpened it will take longer than a lower carbon steel blade. Now the same blade if used as a screwdriver it will snap the tip off instead of bending because it is hard but with that comes brittle. Ieafsprings are usually made from 1085 steel which is actually softer than tool steel because it needs to flex and the more brittle the metal is the less flex cycles it can tolerate. It is still plenty hard and sharpens quickly so as an ice spud or a machete it would be a good choice. You most likely have a piece of 1055 which is a nice steel a little weak for machete but if you sharpen it then heat treat and anneal you should get lots of good cuts before resharpening.

 

Art

[NAW]

My spud it around 5'. It works well.

 

It has a T handle. And a decently long tether rope. About 4' long.

 

One thing worth mentioning. If you plan on knurling the pole and T handle like I did.. Don't use to aggressive of knurling. I need to emery cloth mine down to make it less aggressive. It's ripping my gloves apart.

[Fisherman]

DanD you actually did harden the mild steel with the process it is not up to tool steel grade. The heating and quenching of the steel is key to forming the carbon crystals that raise the steels hardness. You can use glycol which is less flammable and in most cases will not crack the metal like water that cools the metal to quickly.This process then needs to be annealed which is to reheat the metal and slow cooling it. You can run it up to depending on what Rockwell scale you need IF you have the correct carbon content. You need 6-10% with a few other ingredients in the iron to get to 58 or above. You can also make a piece of hardened steel that when slapped on an anvil will actually shatter because as you make steel harder you make it brittle. An example is a knife blade that will hold an sharp edge and needs to be sharpened infrequently is a rockwell scale of 58-60 but when it needs to be sharpened it will take longer than a lower carbon steel blade. Now the same blade if used as a screwdriver it will snap the tip off instead of bending because it is hard but with that comes brittle. Ieafsprings are usually made from 1085 steel which is actually softer than tool steel because it needs to flex and the more brittle the metal is the less flex cycles it can tolerate. It is still plenty hard and sharpens quickly so as an ice spud or a machete it would be a good choice. You most likely have a piece of 1055 which is a nice steel a little weak for machete but if you sharpen it then heat treat and anneal you should get lots of good cuts before resharpening.

 

Art

Interesting info, thanks Art

[grimsbylander]

DanD you actually did harden the mild steel with the process it is not up to tool steel grade. The heating and quenching of the steel is key to forming the carbon crystals that raise the steels hardness. You can use glycol which is less flammable and in most cases will not crack the metal like water that cools the metal to quickly.This process then needs to be annealed which is to reheat the metal and slow cooling it. You can run it up to depending on what Rockwell scale you need IF you have the correct carbon content. You need 6-10% with a few other ingredients in the iron to get to 58 or above. You can also make a piece of hardened steel that when slapped on an anvil will actually shatter because as you make steel harder you make it brittle. An example is a knife blade that will hold an sharp edge and needs to be sharpened infrequently is a rockwell scale of 58-60 but when it needs to be sharpened it will take longer than a lower carbon steel blade. Now the same blade if used as a screwdriver it will snap the tip off instead of bending because it is hard but with that comes brittle. Ieafsprings are usually made from 1085 steel which is actually softer than tool steel because it needs to flex and the more brittle the metal is the less flex cycles it can tolerate. It is still plenty hard and sharpens quickly so as an ice spud or a machete it would be a good choice. You most likely have a piece of 1055 which is a nice steel a little weak for machete but if you sharpen it then heat treat and anneal you should get lots of good cuts before resharpening.

 

Art

 

Good info Art. If Dan got any significant hardening results from what he did, it was not mild steel...eg 1018. Mild steel in it's native state is about 70 on the Rockwell B scale...not the C scale. 70 HRB is below 0 on the HRC scale as above mentioned (58-60), Any hardening you get is really only case hardening which would not be of significant help to a heavy spud as the material below will quickly give way. Also, a salt brine is a better choice than oil for that application(there's many old quench recipes including dish soap!). O-1 is an example oil quenched steel.

Regardless, it appears that Dan is not using mild steel.

[porkpie]

I welded a piece of pipe for a T handle on mine, it works well. I used a thinner piece of rebar though, so it makes it much more comfortable to use!

[DanD]

Thanks for the explanation on metal treating; all I knew was, I wanted the metal harder then it was and I seem to have done it?

I did do a few steps before dunking it in the oil; as in heating and quenching, heating to a golden colour and letting it sit too cool on it own; but I didn't think anyone would be interested in hearing all of it. LOL

Like I said in my other post; the same file I used to shape the blade, now barely scratches it; beginners luck?

 

Dan.

[Smokercrafty]

Some crazy info on steel here. Love it! Dan, a suggestion of sorts. When making my spud, I went a little further, and made it a 2 piece setup. The lower piece being 3/4* solid round bar welded to a piece of sharpened leaf spring blade. The top, being tubing, which I welded the nut into. At the top, I welded a larger lock washer in which I tied my rope tether to. More of a time killer for me at work, as I too, rarely head out onto sketchy ice.

[aplumma]

Most of my metal knowledge comes from knife making so it is narrowed down to high carbons and stainless steel. I used to go to a friend's machine shop and had access to all of the cool toys and books. He sold it and I really miss seeing him and the access to those toys. The process of turning metal into a tool or item will always fascinate me and the artistry in metalworking is greatly admired by me. GBL thanks for the lesson you sir have an excellent base of knowledge. One day a beer and a lesson is in order.

 

Art

[grimsbylander]

Most of my metal knowledge comes from knife making so it is narrowed down to high carbons and stainless steel. I used to go to a friend's machine shop and had access to all of the cool toys and books. He sold it and I really miss seeing him and the access to those toys. The process of turning metal into a tool or item will always fascinate me and the artistry in metalworking is greatly admired by me. GBL thanks for the lesson you sir have an excellent base of knowledge. One day a beer and a lesson is in order.

 

Art

 

Sounds great Art. I would sure like the opportunity to learn about your knife making skills. I'm a machinist by trade and have worked with many grades of aluminum, stainless, tool steels, inconel, waspoloy, and titanium BUT never had time to make components on the more artistic side of metalworking. I have one custom knife that's 30+ years old and has never made a cut or touched a stone. I can't bear to diminish it's condition for some reason. Here's a couple pics, wish I could make something like this.

 

 

 

Sorry for the highjack Dan! oops!

[DanD]

That\s no highjack.

I'd proud to show off such a nice knife myself!

 

Dan.

[aplumma]

[grimsbylander]

Very nice Art. How do you find the time??? lol

[FloatnFly]

[attachment=24670:IMG_1303.JPG

 

Here is what I am working on right now.

 

Art

 

[DanD]

It is what it is; all that's left is to attach a tether strap.

From the tip of the blade to the handle is approx 5'.

 

 

A thick coat of tremcld is a half assed welder's best friend. LOL

 

.

 

Dan.

 

PS:

Art you've been watching to many Arabian Nights movies. LOL

Very nice knives guys.

 

[aplumma]

The knife called a kukri knife was a military issued blade and is to me an amazing knife. The blade is quite heavy and has a few different ways to use in combat. The Cutting part has a curve forward to keep your wrist straight while chopping or slashing. The back of the blade can break bones without breaking the skin. using in a side slapping motion will knock out anyone you wish to detain as well as the pommel which is a solid piece of metal.The notching of the blades base is to keep the blood from the blade from running down your hand and making them slick. The handle has a raised area in the middle so you can keep a loose but firm grip and pivot from one part of the blade to another. The fit and form of quite a few knives that has withstood the test of time have fascinating history that deserve to be remembered.

 

Art

[ketchenany]

Do You guy watch a program called forged in fire! They forge some amazing pieces.

[manitoubass2]

Nice work DanD and Art!

 

That knife is saweeet!

[DRIFTER_016]

[attachment=24670:IMG_1303.JPG

 

Here is what I am working on right now.

 

Art

 

Planning on becoming a Gurkha Art?