chris.brock Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 (edited) Picked up another Bravo long track , 93,last winter, it's been somewhat neglected by it's previous owner. On the snow, under load, it would make an ugly clunk sound and it felt like somewhere along the transmission, skip or slip then hook up again. I brought it home from the cottage, so I could look it over in the shelter of my garage. Everything I thought might be the problem looks fine, cogs, track tension, chain tension, chain gears, jack shaft, motor mounts etc. I have an idea, but would like to hear some people chime in. I miss Bernie being on here more often Edited November 13, 2015 by chris.brock
2 tone z71 Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 may want to service the clutches....listen to him ..could be the secondary buttons or springs
Ksword Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 (edited) I would look at track tension/drive sprockets condition - sounds like the sprockets maybe slipping. Edit - sorry..didn't fully read the part about you checking this... Earlier post about secondary would be next on the list... Edited November 13, 2015 by Kenny
Freshtrax Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 (edited) Also check the front trailing arm on the skid carefully make sure it's not cracked. Edited November 13, 2015 by Freshtrax
DRIFTER_016 Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 Is the flux capacitor within operational parameters?
manitoubass2 Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 flux u Dave Buncha fluxing idiots!
GbayGiant Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 Jack shaft Bearings. Does the Speedometer still work?
fishnsled Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 Jack shaft Bearings. Does the Speedometer still work? I had this problem 2 seasons ago. I was a light clunking as it would start out and then would be fine. Last trip of the season and the speedo stopped working about 20k from the truck. Service for last season was the bearings and shaft. drive belt, no goughing I'll assume you have checked the belt but could be as simple as this.
chris.brock Posted November 13, 2015 Author Report Posted November 13, 2015 drive belt, no goughing I'll assume you have checked the belt but could be as simple as this. I'm hoping u guys r right, because that's what I was thinking. The belt is worn but so was the belt on all my piece of crap sleds in the last 25 years. any other input is appreciated
Freshtrax Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 Tear down the secondary clean and replace buttons. If I remember they are a bit of a pain to get off on a bravo. Unlike most sleds they require a puller you can rent one at crappy tire for free.
Sinker Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 Id change the belt before tearing apart the clutch. I bet thats what it is. Our VKs at work are the same way when its time for a new belt. A worn out belt can also mess up your clutch. S.
lakerguy Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 is it a ratcheting noise you hear? If so could be your drive cogs are slipping under load cause their worn maybe
hutch4113 Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 I had something similar on a Polaris. When I would give it the beans, I would get a clunking/gear grinding sound. Ended up taking it apart - issue was with the bearings on the drive shaft - not that they were bad or anything, but there was a bracket that holds them to the chassis of the sled. The person who had "worked" on the machine the previous winter, had put the bracket only on one side - so nothing was stopping the bearings from shifting under load. So when the torque hit - the bearings moved - which allowed the drive shaft to the track to move - which allowed the drive wheels on the track to move. By the time I found it - it had actually started to eat a hole in the chassis. Anyway - ended up replacing the bearings (had it apart so why not) - put the holding bracket on properly, with one piece on each side of the chassis to keep the bearings in the center. Replaced the drive wheels (again - why not). When back together it was a rocket, with no slipping.
NAW Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 I didn't realize you could break a Bravo.. Weird.
manitoubass2 Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 I didn't realize you could break a Bravo.. Weird. If anyone could do it...???
ecmilley Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 Where does the belt sit in the secondary post a pic if you can. Measure belt width for wear andncheck secondary. But usually the problem your describingnis.in the driveshaft. The "speedo" bearing seizes up causing clunking severe slow down off the throttle. Easy enougj to replace and around $50. Take belt off elevate sled and spin track by handnmake sure its free then work backwords from there
chris.brock Posted November 13, 2015 Author Report Posted November 13, 2015 If anyone could do it... It's not broken, it's only slightly flux'd The speedo doesn't work. Leaf springs, no trailing arm, it's lame 250 so not much torque, everything I checked (original post) looked fine. Thickest belt I have in the secondary.
Kerry Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 Where does the belt sit in the secondary post a pic if you can. Measure belt width for wear andncheck secondary. But usually the problem your describingnis.in the driveshaft. The "speedo" bearing seizes up causing clunking severe slow down off the throttle. Easy enougj to replace and around $50. Take belt off elevate sled and spin track by handnmake sure its free then work backwords from there Here here! right on.That belt looks a little low in the secondary.Hard to tell with the older steel secondaries but I would bet it should be at least level with the circumference of the secondary.Newer ones you will be slightly higher in the secondary. Kerry
ecmilley Posted November 13, 2015 Report Posted November 13, 2015 that belt looks a little low and worn if i remember correctly that belts min width is 26mm new is 31 if iam right that belt is right at the min. also adjust your chaincase-- easy peasy loosen lock nut tighten adjustor by hand till snug hold and tighten lock bolt. for clutch servicing use a "brown" xtrafine 3 m scotchbrite pad and acetone to clean all th faces. to check track tenssion use a spring scale with 10 kg of force (22lb) measure sag in middle of skid should be 25-30mm or 1to 1.2 inches but i change that one driveshaft bearing every 2 seasons as preventative mainteneance n all my yamahas and jackshaft bearing and chaincase every 12000km or so
Freshtrax Posted November 14, 2015 Report Posted November 14, 2015 There should be a trailing arm on the rear skid. I broke mine on the bravo that's how I know. when I did the drive cog skipped. Under heavy load.
simonl Posted November 16, 2015 Report Posted November 16, 2015 If your speedometer isn't working that's a dead give away that the driveshaft bearings are done and ready to grenade themselves. Once the bearings start to fail, the driveshaft does not turn true and snaps the sacrificial drive pin that drives the speedo cable. I would bet the clunking you are hearing is the driveshaft flopping around under load. It is hard to feel play in it by moving it with your hands because track tension holds it in a fairly firm position at rest.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now