Yamaha outboard service Brantford ares Recomendations?

[bass_man]

I am NOT a handy guy, if I fix it, it will stay broken for sure.

 

Drained the lower unit oil in both Yamahas last fall but I will want someone brighter than me to re-fill and install new plugs and test run them this spring.

 

I thought I would take them to my Local Yamaha dealer but he says he just does motorcycles and doesn't do outboards.

 

Can anyone recommend a quality guy in my area.

 

Jim

 

 

[BillM]

Jim, if you can type on a keyboard you can do this maintenance. It's dead easy.

[nancur373]

There's a dealer just outside Belwood. Can't remember the name. But it's simple to do. What size is it?

This may help...

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/1/LIT-18626-07-17_1378.pdf

[lew]

Refilling the lower unit is dead easy, as is changing the plugs and if you do it yourself you'll save a bunch of money.

 

I've got a 150 4 stroke Yammie and every fall I change the lower unit oil, engine oil, oil filter, plugs when needed and whatever else it needs and in total it's less than an hour.

 

Dealership wants about $300 for the job.

[grt1]

years ago, I was looking for a new boat and the only boat and motor dealer I could find was a guy outside highway 3 south of Hamilton, it's either that or proctor marine in Simcoe.

[scugpg]

bay city marine in hamilton are very good to deal with

[bass_man]

Thanks Guys, I am toying with the idea of doing it myself but I really am a clutzz,

 

I have a 40 hp 3 cyl and a 2 hp air cooled with a built in tank and I think they will need different screw-ins for the lower unit filler.

 

I can probably do the plugs OK but I will need to get a water muff for the 40hp.

 

If I start the 40, how long can I safely wait for the spitter to spit before damaging the motor.

 

Jim

[Sinker]

Thanks Guys, I am toying with the idea of doing it myself but I really am a clutzz,

 

I have a 40 hp 3 cyl and a 2 hp air cooled with a built in tank and I think they will need different screw-ins for the lower unit filler.

 

I can probably do the plugs OK but I will need to get a water muff for the 40hp.

 

If I start the 40, how long can I safely wait for the spitter to spit before damaging the motor.

 

Jim

Don't run your engine out of water. Get the muffs, or a barrel of water.

 

You can fill the lower units right from the oil jug without any pump attachments....its a little tricky, but totally doable.

 

This is really easy maintenance, and the only way you will learn is by doing. Very simple stuff.

 

S.

[aplumma]

A good manual will spell out what to do as well as videos that are offered on the internet. If in doubt a post here asking for a helping hand and a promise of an all expenses paid trip to the local fishing hole should have you more offers than you need to learn how to do the more basic maintenance.

 

 

 

Art

[grimsbylander]

I don't get out your way very often but I'll PM you next time I do. I would do it and show you how at the same time. We could cover plugs, steering, water pump and winterizing too. When did you want to do it?

[bass_man]

Thanks for that grimsbylander, I'm not in a big rush right now, I can't even get to my back yard gate never mind into where the boats are.

 

I am just trying to get my ducks in a row right now, that's why I was asking for recommendations so I could go ahead with what needs to be done after about 8 million tons of snow melt in my side yard.

 

I do hope to be ready for some early pike fishing as soon as the ice is out of the inner bay.

 

I'd be glad of some company if it appeals to you.

 

Jim

[Old Ironmaker]

Go to YouTube, even I did the winterizing. I don't like that you didn't refill the lower end with fluid, it can promote corrosion, maybe you did, I hope. I didn't know that before I watched the many YouTube videos over and over again. I got enough confidence and pride after doing the winterizing I changed the plugs and wires. I could reline a Furnace at a cost of 100 million dollars but was afraid to change the oil in a 2 stroke, duh.

 

If you are still sheepish after watching the many, many videos showing you step by step PM me and we'll do it together I'm not far from Brantford. I have the filler attachment for filling the bottom end with gear oil. The gear oil, plumbers antifreeze and fogging agent will cost about 40 bucks, they charge 150.

 

If you insist bringing it in the you are close to Don Hyde in Hagersville on #6 south of Caledonia or Proctor on Hwy 3 in Simcoe. They better give you a deal this time of year. Just ask them.

Edited March 1, 2014 by Old Ironmaker

[Old Ironmaker]

If I start the 40, how long can I safely wait for the spitter to spit before damaging the motor.

 

The motor won't "spit" until the thermostat opens I learned that on YouTube as well, go to YouTube. What's with the underline, that's better.

[HTHM]

A very good marine mechanic is Maximum Marine 1632 Wilson W, Ancaster, ON L9G 3K9, 905-304-5313

[Crazy Ivan]

Saving money by DIY is great but when my engine was new and still under warranty, I took it to my dealer to have it winterized every fall. If I ever need to resell, or anything needs warranty work, I can show receipts to prove an authorized dealer did the work every year. Just something to consider.

 

A dealer might not honour the warranty if the winterizing was not done properly. And 4 stroke repair is not cheap.

 

Now that my outboard is past it's warranty, I might try learning how to maintain it myself.

Edited March 1, 2014 by Crazy Ivan

[bass_man]

Thanks Guys, one of the things I like about OFC is that you will always get a broad spectrum of opinions and information, good hints and advice.

 

The 40 isn't new but it's new to me and worth way more than I can afford to spend to replace it.

 

The 2 hp was new when I paid $1000.00 for it 3 years ago and I cant afford to replace it either.

 

I can afford a couple of hundred to protect my investment but I have very little faith in service providers if I don't know anything about them, and that is why I was looking for recommendations.

 

I may be willing to try "with a little help from my friends" but tools and me have a love hate relationship, I love to buy them but they hate it when I try to use them.

 

Jim

[Pigeontroller]

One thing you shouldn't do is drain the lower unit and leave it stored empty...The oil protects the parts even when its not running.

[spincast]

just as food for thought - if the units are out of warranty and you are just looking for peace of mind, for this kind of thing, any marina will be able to help you out - you don't necessarily need a yammie dealer. I will put a thumbs up for Proctor too - great guys. But boy do they get busy come spring (more so than most, I found) , so be prepared to run it down at the first sign of warm weather if you don't want to wait 3 + weeks. I've been using CAS up on 401 and Cedarcreek the last couple years (mostly because I work in Cambridge) So far I have had nothing but good experiences with them. Souds like you got some solid offers from some solid OFCers too and that could pay you back in spades in the longer term.

[sofabed]

I would also recommend CAS in Ayr. I have only heard good things about them and they service a few of my friends boats.

[wdodgetruck]

You can buy the pump for the gear case oil at princess auto. It screws on the gear oil bottle and has the fittings for the lower end . Just screw it on and pump the lube in.