Old Ironmaker Posted July 21, 2013 Report Posted July 21, 2013 I stopped in to see my local marine mechanic the other day and his compound was jammed packed with boats motors lined up for repair. He told me that the entire industry is swamped with repairs for 2 strokes around 10 years or older. Generally cylinder compression loss. They believe it is due to phase separation related to ethanol in older rigs. He suggested as someone here did that I only fuel up with 93 that is available from Shell and Esso. And be diligent using 2x4 or similar phase separation treatments. A heads up.
Sinker Posted July 21, 2013 Report Posted July 21, 2013 Esso has ethanol in all their fuel. Shell V-powerr is the way to go, unless you have a no-ethanol gas station in town like I do S.
aplumma Posted July 21, 2013 Report Posted July 21, 2013 Using a good gas stabilizer is important in the marine environment. I use Marine staybil in all of my gas except the cars/trucks because they rarely have gas stored for more than a week. Art
Bernie Posted July 21, 2013 Report Posted July 21, 2013 I think he may have meant 2+4 instead of 2x4.2+4 is a name brand stabilizer from Bombardier. Originally from OMC. This is a very good product and there are other good ones as well. Just make sure to use any fuel you buy in a short period and you will not have any issues. Anything that sits add stabilizers.We have seen a lot of fuel related issues at our shop as well. But it has been going on now for several years.
lew Posted July 21, 2013 Report Posted July 21, 2013 He told me that the entire industry is swamped with repairs for 2 strokes around 10 years or older. Just curious as to what he said about 4 stroke engines the same age ??
Crazy Ivan Posted July 21, 2013 Report Posted July 21, 2013 Is there really any gas available without ethanol? I think it is in all the gas station brands even though they may claim it isn't.
Sinker Posted July 21, 2013 Report Posted July 21, 2013 There are some gas stations that are ethanol free in my area. Other than them, its shell V-power that has no ethanol. I run it in everything I own. Way better mileage in my vehicle, and no issues with my 2 stroke engines. S.
Old Ironmaker Posted July 21, 2013 Author Report Posted July 21, 2013 wormdunker, on 21 Jul 2013 - 00:40, said: Please explain 2x4 treatemnt? Sorry 2+4, gas stabilizer to ensure phase separation isn't an issue with your fuel. Lew, He didn't mention 4 strokes other than always telling me to go into the showroom and buy one.
Handlebarz Posted July 21, 2013 Report Posted July 21, 2013 I always add stabil marine fuel stabilizer each fill up no matter what. I have read the stories and figure the price for it is added comfort of my mind
Garnet Posted July 22, 2013 Report Posted July 22, 2013 Pre 2006 fuel lines are not ethanol resistance. They deteriorate from the inside. One of the signs is smelling gas fumes.
Fisherman Posted July 22, 2013 Report Posted July 22, 2013 Pre 2006 fuel lines are not ethanol resistance. They deteriorate from the inside. One of the signs is smelling gas fumes. That's strange, why would my manual indicate that up to 10% ethanol use is allowed if the hoses are not ethanol resistant? Mines 17 years old with no sign of degradation.
Garnet Posted July 22, 2013 Report Posted July 22, 2013 (edited) They de grade from the inside. Go on the BBC you will find pages about fuel lines. Edited July 22, 2013 by Garnet
Fisherman Posted July 22, 2013 Report Posted July 22, 2013 They de grade from the inside. Go on the BBC you will find pages about fuel lines. Ya, I realize degrading is going to occur from the inside, that's where the gas flows.
Freshtrax Posted July 22, 2013 Report Posted July 22, 2013 Fuel lines have degraded since the inside since the beginning of the combustion engine. Ive had them go in cars, I find the ethanol fuel is harder on the carbs than the lines, Forget stabil and all that crap. Start your motor , shut off fuel, and let run till it stalls. Then turn it over and spray fogging oil down the carb with the butterfly's open. ..works for all my motors. No issues. I do tear down the carbs on the sleds at the beginning of every winter as they are tuned on the ragged edge of lean. Snow blowers, weed eaters and chainsaws get put away dry and fogged and rarely have any issues.
Sinker Posted July 22, 2013 Report Posted July 22, 2013 Storing things dry is never a good idea. I'd rather have them full, and seafoam added than stored dry any day. I've honestly never had a fuel issue, other than a bad fuel line. I replaced the line last year, and it was original from '93, so it didn't owe me anything. I've burned fuel that was almost a year old with no issues, so I'm not really sold on the whole fuel going bad theory. I do, however, try to run ethanol free fuel all the time. The only time fuel with ethanol goes in my outboard is if I need gas, and have no other options, and I will only get what I will burn put in the tank. I'm lucky to have a few local gas stations around me that are 100% ethanol free, so I use them always....or shell V-power when away from home. S.
Freshtrax Posted July 22, 2013 Report Posted July 22, 2013 Eh sinker... Why is it bad to store dry? I understand not storing with a half tank condensation and all. But can't think of a good reason not to want my lines and carbs dry while sitting all winter.
DRIFTER_016 Posted July 22, 2013 Report Posted July 22, 2013 One of the good things about living in the far North is they don't sell any fuels with ethanol in them up here. In the winter it gets too cold and the fact that ethanol absorbs water does not work well in a frozen environment. My buddies in Alaska tell me there's no ethanol in any of their fuels either. Pretty sure Nunavut and the Yukon are the same.
wormdunker Posted July 23, 2013 Report Posted July 23, 2013 Thanx for clarifing that Ironmaker. I'm adamant about having my gas engines running properly, so when I see a new item, I want to investigate. I NEVER run my equipment dry for off season storage!! I was advised by our local small engine mechanic that o rings, seals etc will dry & crack when dry. His advice is to have at least 1/2 tank of gas in your piece of equipmenmt before storage. Add the appropriate amount of gas stabilizer to the gas tank. Start the engine, let it run at 1/2 throttle for 2 -3 minutes to allow the "treated" gas to flow into all of the engine parts. Shut the engine down. Remove the spark plug(s), squirt 4 or 5 drops of oil (I use 10W30) into the cylinder(s), hold a rag over the cylinder, pull the cord a couple of times (this distributes the oil over the internal engine parts for lubrication during the storage period). At this point re install the plugs. NOTE - THIS IS WHEN I INSTALL NEW SPARK PLUGS!!! I own several pieces of gas equipment including ice auger, chainsaw, several outboards, weed eater, mower, leaf blower, pressure washer. This method WORKS regardless of manufacturer. I've done this method for over 20 years!! Hope this helps
Fisherman Posted July 23, 2013 Report Posted July 23, 2013 Well at 45 years old my Ariens snowblower gets put away dry every spring, bone dry carb and hose, it starts, on the first pull. Everything else gets put away dry in the off season, to each their own, Ice auger, 22years, chain saw 14, outboard, 17, does it seem to indicate a trend that works.
Freshtrax Posted July 23, 2013 Report Posted July 23, 2013 " allow the "treated" gas to flow into all of the engine parts". If he was talking about a two stroke I would get a new mechanic. . Proper fogging oil will take care of your crank seals, bearings and cylinder walls. I have never seen a carb bowl gasket "dry up". Or a fuel pump diaphragm either in one off season. To each his own. Last thing I want is any fuel sitting in my carbs all off season. A four stroke.. I'm not sure i would want my injectors wet or not but I'm no four stroke guru, my forte is two strokes.
wormdunker Posted July 23, 2013 Report Posted July 23, 2013 Freshtrax U r right. I should have stated - allow the treated gas to get into the carb, fuel line, & fuel filter.
Garnet Posted July 23, 2013 Report Posted July 23, 2013 My 1999 merc 225 fuel lines also say good for 10% ethanol. What needed to be replaced was fuel line from tank to bulb and bulb to motor. All these lines had red/orange stripe and aren't ethanol proof. Cost about $75.
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