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Boat loads and Unloads Slick Now


Fish Farmer

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Re-did my bunks a couple months ago with new wood and carpet. What a pain trying to launch at a shallow launch, couldn't get the boat off the trailer. I saw some kits that you can buy that goes on your bunks made of plastic but were small pieces and thought they were too small and poor support. So I bought puck board they use in arenas, HD Polymer 1/2" thick. that stuff is slick. I made my own sliders. took off the carpet that would have rotted my bunks in a few years and re-did them with my own strips. Man, what a difference.

 

1_zps66b00a4b.jpg

 

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3_zps1fabdf04.jpg

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I had to buy a 4' X 8' 1/2" sheet TJ

Plastruct Polyzone

Vineland On. 4305 Springcreek Rd. 1 800 642 7797

It was expensive $135.00 a sheet. plus Stainless hardware $35.00

I cut it myself, 5" strips to cover the 2X6 boards.

I'm trying to recoop some cash so I posted on a selling and buying site.

I'll post here in the classified.

Now posted.

Edited by Fish Farmer
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How much do you want for two 4"x8' strips?

I cut 4' strips because I started the sheet that way. I can only cut 4' now because it's not 8' anymore.

$60.00 for 4 pieces 4" X 4', The guy that I bought it from said you have to allow for expansion, so I cut mine 4' then I cut 1/2 " off each piece, that's why I have a little gap in the middle of the bunk to expand as you can see in the one picture. I had it in the sun the other day and it never moved. The sheet cost me $135.00 and they were going to charge me $25.00 per cut. So I said I'll do it myself. That 4' X 8' sheet is very heavy. I had to cut it on the floor. They have big tables to cut it.

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Great idea. Just wondering it there is a reason cutting the material in 4ft lengths as to going the full 8ft length and one solid piece on the bunk?

For expansion Fishnsled. He also told me to drill the holes a little larger than the size of the bolts I use for expansion. I used 2 1/2" x 1/4" stainless flat head 1 flat washer and a nylon stainless locking nut, and used a 1/4" drill bit, & a 1/2" bit to counter sink the head. I't didn't seem to move the other day when I was out and it was in the sun all day. It may expand a bit but I didn't see it. Could be because cutting it 4'

Edited by Fish Farmer
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Great idea. Just wondering it there is a reason cutting the material in 4ft lengths as to going the full 8ft length and one solid piece on the bunk?

Another thing, watch power loading, you could put the boat into you backseat of your truck :D I experimented the other day at the ramp at 50pt. power loading, I put the nose right to the winch with ease. Don't unhook your winch hook till you get close to the water on the ramp, boat could end up on the cement :D

A few guys were at the ramp watching and thought it was a great idea.

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For expansion Fishnsled. He also told me to drill the holes a little larger than the size of the bolts I use for expansion. I used 2 1/2" x 1/4" stainless flat head 1 flat washer and a nylon stainless locking nut, and used a 1/4" drill bit, & a 1/2" bit to counter sink the head. I't didn't seem to move the other day when I was out and it was in the sun all day. It may expand a bit but I didn't see it. Could be because cutting it 4'

 

Thanks for the input.

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Looking Good. I found a product that I sprayed called liquid rollers that is the bomb. I went from not being able to push off my Ranger unless it was floating to now leaving the nose hooked till it is at the water to keep it from sliding off the trailer. The lauching can now be done with the trailer just back to the water and a gentle push and off it comes.

 

 

Art

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2 words.....Roller Trailer.

 

Looks good F.F.

 

I have a roller trailer with 2 sets of 4 pivoting rollers in addition to my fixed rollers. I have to keep my winch hook on as I back up to the water, but I can push it off or winch it on with it barely in the water. I often land it by pulling it onto the trailer with the bow rope and hooking the winch strap on for the last foot.

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Unless it's fibreglass, the last thing you want is a roller trailer, that came direct from the boat dealer. He said(which made perfect sense to me) that the surface area that supports the hull compared to bunks is way too small, you end up with a couple of square inches compared to a couple of square feet on bunks.

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I have a buddy who trashed his fiberglass boat with a roller trailer. Now the boat was old and the glass was not in great shape but he trailered it 100 miles to the ocean and it has crack enough to almost sink him.

 

 

Art

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I have a buddy who trashed his fiberglass boat with a roller trailer. Now the boat was old and the glass was not in great shape but he trailered it 100 miles to the ocean and it has crack enough to almost sink him.

 

 

Art

:worthy: Amen, just the proof ya needed.

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Real nice job FF! My order is in, 2 pieces 5" X 4' long. Are your 2x6 bunks bolted directly to the trailer without any other brackets? My trailer has silly looking brackets bolted to the trailer then bolted to the bunks, which raises the boat up even further. I'd like the bunks as low as possible for launching at shallow ramps.

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Real nice job FF! My order is in, 2 pieces 5" X 4' long. Are your 2x6 bunks bolted directly to the trailer without any other brackets? My trailer has silly looking brackets bolted to the trailer then bolted to the bunks, which raises the boat up even further. I'd like the bunks as low as possible for launching at shallow ramps.

Just a welded L bracket Brian, One on each end of the 2X6

I'm going out to the garage now and cut them for you.

Bunk_zps3fad2c13.jpg

Edited by Fish Farmer
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Unless it's fibreglass, the last thing you want is a roller trailer, that came direct from the boat dealer. He said(which made perfect sense to me) that the surface area that supports the hull compared to bunks is way too small, you end up with a couple of square inches compared to a couple of square feet on bunks.

 

It is a 17' aluminum and I have had no issues with weight distribution.

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My old 18" Starcraft rode on a roller trailer since new ('87) and shows zero signs of damage. I'm not just talking about dents, there's not even a rub mark at the point of contact. To further dispel the myth; when I hauled boats for a living, they road along just fine one 1 sqft carpeted steel bunks at the back and a 4" wide V block at the front. Side bunks were decoration and didn't contact the hull. We're talking about 40'ers sitting on VERY small contact patches. When it comes to weight distribution per square inch, it's your fridge you should be worried about.

 

And to stay ON TOPIC...

Composite decking boards are readily available and comparatively cheap but full marks for "thinking outside the (penalty) box".

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