SlowPoke

i-Pilot is sweet but conversion from the Powerdrive means you lose the foot pedal, Terrova conversion retains the pedal. If you're okay with that, you'll love it.

It won't be but it won't drive you nuts. A friend of mine has a Zuki 200 and 20 combo and the only concern is whether it will go slow enough. He has an 18' tho

"Most of the boats had left" can only imply not all of the boats had left. Not sure how you can read it any other way unless you are unable to define the word most.

I never said it wouldn't do musky trolling speed but you're not doing yourself any favours running a kicker balls out to hit 5mph when the main motor can do it just above idle. My high thrust 9.9 will do over 5 but I don't think it will hit 6 and at that rate probably using my fuel than my main motor!

Just my luck! I used to be in Cheektowaga daily but doubt I'll ever get back there now. Looking for the one on the bottom in the pic... http://www.attwoodmarine.com/userfiles/images/attwood-old/238142_grp.jpg

It wasn't unattended. The OP said most of the boats had left.

You can download a lot of legal tunes for the price of a cheap USB turntable and have a better digital copy. If you want to really enjoy your albums, invest in a quality turntable. I have a Rega RP1 and will be upgrading my receiver before I'll match its quality!

No, not likely an issue at any speed. Your hull would push it aside as you went over it. You could try 1000 times to get it caught in your prop and probably miss it.

I replaced my wood floor with aluminium but the same consideration applies... If you have sides or bulkheads that are fastened to the floor you may be required to use the same thickness that was in there. In my case I used 3/16" aluminium plate over 1/4" 2x2 angle supports to get close to the 1/2" voids where the sides and rear bulkheads met the old floor. If this is not an issue, I would use 3/8" minimum and wouldn't be afraid to use 3/4". Marine ply is very lightweight.

I like my Lowrance LSS-2 Down/Side scan. I find the down scan really allows you to inturpret what you see on your regular sonar and the side scan allows you to see what you never would have seen until passing directly over it. Down/side scans are most effective in shallow to 30' fow and 1-3 mph. It don't use it on the big lake or still/drift fishing. If you think it will suit your most common fishing methods, you'll appreciate it.

If you're considering a kicker, don't waste your time with a small HP. Noisy single cyl drink mixers with above water exhaust and not enough power to handle even a light wind. No too mention, as an auxillery (emergency) motor...almost better paddling. Do it right with an 8 or 9.9 high thrust minimum 4-stroke for walleye/salmon/trout. Musky guys would benefit from 15-20hp for speeds 4mph and up.

I wouldn't have touched the marker if there was anyone in sight and only if it was unattended for a long period of time. Maybe a primitive marking method but still effective. Structure or not, if you had a big girl follow you can leave it alone and come back to it later. With that said, it sounds like they went off the deep end. I'd be pissed if it was my marker but hopfully would have handled it better.

Cabela's and most other retailers won't carry the long posts. If you think finding a 27" post is tough, try finding the 238 slider!

Open water jigging is tough unless you have a very calm surface and a wide angle cone on your transducer. Your DSI won't likely pick up a jig under any condition. DSI units are most effective at a slow troll and even then fish may only appear as single pixels while bottom structure and growth seem very detailed.

Try West Marine if you have one nearby... The 238 series are hard to find for some reason, especially considering they come in so many new boat... add Starcraft, Sylvan and Smokercraft to that list. Should be $60-$80 max