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Posted

Do you guys tie braid directly to any of your lures. There are definitely applications where there is no need for a fluoro or mono leader and braid directly to a lure should work. My question is what type of knot do you use? I've had issues with knots slipping with braid. Suggestions?

 

Thanks!

Posted

The palamar knot is what I use but I tie a snap swivel to the line...saves me trying to cut braid all the time when I'm switching out lures,, and it also stops line twist

Posted

I have used the palomar knot and have tied direct for yrs for jigging walleyes on the Detroit River. I also use Flame Grn braid line so I can see my line and clients lines while fishing. If a walleye is going to hit a green, orange or white jig they are not going to be concerned about being line shy. And the DR does get quite clear at times, a N or NE will send sand and particles down river making it look muddy.

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Posted
The palamar knot is what I use but I tie a snap swivel to the line...saves me trying to cut braid all the time when I'm switching out lures,, and it also stops line twist

 

Same here....

Posted

I generally don't use snap-swivles because it's just another possible point of failure. Exceptions to this are spoons and spinnerbaits. Some lures like jerkbaits and topwaters don't achieve the correct action when not tied directly to the line. All my brait-lure connections are made with a palamar knot.

Posted (edited)

Uni-Knot for braid here....when using fluoro/mono leaders I attach them with either a barrel swivel or back to back uni knots...

I also tie braid direct to the lure sometimes.....different conditions (i.e heavy weeds).....

 

TDunn

Edited by TDunn
Posted

It's very difficult to make an improved clinch work with a braided line like powerpro or tuffline. Use a palomar or uni knot.

Posted (edited)

I always use a mono or flouro leader for abraision resistance, especially when trolling and bouncing my lures off bottom.

Too many times I have had clients not use a leader and all of a sudden when trolling the line will break right in front of the lure where it has been banging off bottom.

It's a good thing T60 Flatfish float!!!! :D

 

Oh, and for knots, Palomar, Uni and Back to Back Uni. ;)

Edited by DRIFTER_016
Posted
It's very difficult to make an improved clinch work with a braided line like powerpro or tuffline. Use a palomar or uni knot.

 

 

I have no problem with Improved Clinches on Power Pro/Ugly Braid/Fireline/ ect.

 

But I also agree with the Palomar!

Posted

For braid I always have a 5 ft fleuro leader spliced with back to back uniknots with complete confidence. When doing this in no way is there any hinderance coming out of the rod eyes. If doing this the fleuro must be at least 2lbs stronger than the braid or it will cut through.

Posted

Not to tromp your post GCiotola but since there is so much discussion on braid I have a question...When I'm running braid for trolling I notice that my lures don't run as deep as they normally do when using mono...anybody else?? If I put a fleuro leader on would that help??

Posted
Not to tromp your post GCiotola but since there is so much discussion on braid I have a question...When I'm running braid for trolling I notice that my lures don't run as deep as they normally do when using mono...anybody else?? If I put a fleuro leader on would that help??

 

 

What weight of braid are you running? When you switched from mono to braid did you "bump up" your pound test? Alot of people do this on braid because say 20 pound braid will be the same diameter as 8 pound mono (I know thats not exactly the rating but use it as an example).

 

You may have gone a size too big and now the thicker braid isn't cutting the water as good as the thinner mono you had...get what I'm saying? If you used to use 8lb mono or 10lb or whatever, try running 10 or 15 pound braid it is super thin and *should* cut water well and get you down there.

 

That's my thoughts though...anyone else ever have this problem remedied by what I described?

Posted

I find that many braids tend to float unless it says sinking on the package (Gorilla had a sinking braid). I noticed this when slip float fishing, the line to the float stayed on the surface.

Archie, I think you maybe got something backwards there (typo?) or I'm getting cabin fever crosseyes - 8# mono equals 30# braid, 8# braid is equal to 1# mono, making it much thinner in profile (average diameters of course). This thinner profile should (and does I think) cut the water better.

I'm thinking the depth problem tightline experiences might be more related to mono sinking easier than braid. I personally haven't really noticed less depth trolling with braid, nor had I heard of it. Something else to check out in soft water season!

 

Michael

Posted
I find that many braids tend to float unless it says sinking on the package (Gorilla had a sinking braid). I noticed this when slip float fishing, the line to the float stayed on the surface.

Archie, I think you maybe got something backwards there (typo?) or I'm getting cabin fever crosseyes - 8# mono equals 30# braid, 8# braid is equal to 1# mono, making it much thinner in profile (average diameters of course). This thinner profile should (and does I think) cut the water better.

I'm thinking the depth problem tightline experiences might be more related to mono sinking easier than braid. I personally haven't really noticed less depth trolling with braid, nor had I heard of it. Something else to check out in soft water season!

 

Michael

 

 

See, I knew I worded it all screwy :D. Thats what I meant...that equivalent pound test in Braid is MUCH thinner than it's equal pound in Mono (8lb braid is MUCH thinner than 8lb Mono). What I thought could be contributing to not sinking is that the OP has DRASTICALLY bumped up the pound test and his new Braid is quite a bit thicker than the old mono he had on. So that would appear to him, that the braid is not cutting water as good as his ol' trusty mono! Understand what I'm trying to say? :huh:

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