Fisherman

Honestly, most radios are all made in Hop Sings factory in china. Standard maximum output is 25 watt on high, 1 or 5 watt on low. Most radios have the SO239 standard antenna connector, some used to have the BNC. As long as your power cables are clean and not corroded, they can be reused, any amount of corrosion, replace them. If your antenna is as old as the radio, it may be a good idea to change the antenna too.

Never had a problem with any of their transducer cables being pinched.

Not knowing what size/amps your trolling motor takes, Princess Auto carries down to 8ga. Also the option of getting a cheap set of jumper cables at Wallymart, take the ends off and there you go. 6ga would probably be more than enough.

First pic is upside down.

And keep a copy of the receipt with you in the boat/tacklebox or dry box, it's your ownership. The registration is not considered ownership.

Good reading, thanks.

If you extend the sides of the box a bit to fit snugly within the framework of the front rack, then it won't move side to side, front to back. Then get the ratchet strap with rubber coated hooks to hold it down.

Nice work, handy to have some tunes when the bite is slow.

I've still got my stupid phone, no internet or email. On the rogers pay as you go plan, $20 per month gives me a lot of text time and really low rate long distance which I only use in summer at the camp.

We're all just jealous of your comfy hut.

:rofl2:

That's quite the stove.

Oh ya, pic# 2 really shows it, in all the years, I have never seen the ramps level to get on the dock, it was always downhill.

I get mine from Maguires in Minesing. Tastes a 100 times better than that liquid sugar with food colouring.

Same as Marinco, best going.

The Marinco ones are pretty much bullet proof, short of dropping an anchor on them they should last a loooong time.

:rofl2: Laughter is good for you.

Not to ridicule any posts, but there's a fine line when I buy bearings and seals. The $1.99 junk will not see any action on my equipment.

Annually at the end of the season. Makes no sense to me to possibly have water infiltration sitting inside the hub and rusting the heck out of bearings and races during the off season. Problem solved before it becomes one.

No, they rarely carry anything over 3/4 inch. Unless you want to laminate a couple of 3/4 planks together, that may well work too. Check the thickness of your transom, some run from about 1 inch to 1 and a half.

I got the wood at a mill in Alliston, there are others out there.

Wet wood is no good. If it's the transom in the boat in your avatar it won't be too difficult. Take off the corners, motor, top aluminum cap over the rail and any other things like tie downs. The wood interior should come straight up. I did a couple of aluminum transoms in solid 1 inch maple and oak soaked in Thompsons water seal.

Time to set up a couple of trail cameras.

They may, but if they're lug centric instead of hub centric then they have to use an adapter plate, most of which don't have the remotest clue how to use. If they're hub centric, no problem.

Run a chalk line across the tread in a few places, then drive down the road for a 1/4 mile and see where the chalk is missing, underinflated, no chalk on the edges, overinflated, no chalk in the center. A crude method but it works.