Fisherman

Not questioning your electrical prowess, but, I question running the main motor with switch in position 2, feeding power to the kicker battery and the kicker, don't know if the kicker alternator would like it.

You would only need three batteries, 1 deep cycle/marine starting for the kicker and run the 'riggers. Then 2 batteries, 1 starting for the big motor and 1 deep cycle for the remaining accessories, lights, vhf, F/F, livewell, etc. Those two batteries are kept separate through an isolater only for the reason that when the big motor is not running, you will never run down the starting battery and be stranded. However whenn the big motor is running, it will charge both of those 2. If I can figure out how to draw some schematics for you, I'll do it a later today and post.

Ha, Ha, they may have grabbed my attention by showing me a ad that I might remember, but, I would consider it nothing much more than something dreamed up by a bunch of cavemen/women. When I see that, I generally equate the commercial/ad and waste of money to that product and don't buy it.

Not realizing you had a couple of extras there,(livewell, etc,) those could also be routed to a deep cycle that runs in parallel with your main motor through an isolator. That's easy enouogh to do. Again keep the kicker to run the 'riggers.

Rant It seems like most of the auto/truck mfgrs have hired a bunch of pea brained idiots to come up with advertising, Jeep has a bunch of singing wildlife jumping in through the sunroof, then there's some Lion idiot growling at spanky looking women, the nutbar driving the Ford pickup on the dirtbike track, come on, can't they think of anything intelligent to entice buyers.

Usually when the mfgrs say 12V 6amp output, it is generally an accepted fact that they put out around 13.5 to 13.8Volt DC, I know for a fact my old Honda, 7.5 did and so does my present Honda 25, otherwise you wouldn't be charging the batteries at any speed. What you are trying to accomplish could be done, but, it would take a bunch of solenoids/relays, far too much of a clusterf of wiring. I would let the big motor run the main battery, fish finder and VHF. A fish finder generally takes less than 1 amp/hr and the VHF maybe 3 amps when keying the mic on high power, when just monitoring/listening, usually less than 1 amp/hr and unless you're "like a woman on the phone all day"(not dissing the girls here), that battery will do fine. Let the kicker run your downrigger battery unless you plan on playing yoyo with them all day. I run everything off one battery, Fish/F, VHF, downrigger and haven't had any problems.

Same one as last week, now unless we get a major case of global warming and the icemaking stops about ...Dec 26 each year, and, doesn't snow for the rest of the year, it's pretty much as waste of material. Put a rotary brush on the front and make it a street sweeper.

Well, something to keep idle finger fingers busy, thanks.

Somewhere out there I remember seeing a remote located trolling/idle adjust for small kickers along with a remote foot operated(electric?) steering, maybe at Cabela's, maybe that would suit you.

Scotty's and Wmart probably has the best price.

Can't give you a picture right now, but my antenna(8') is mounted on a stainless ratchet mount on the right rear corner of the boat, the radio sits in a quick release box(out of the rain/sun) mounted on the downrigger plank, wiring runs as far away as I can get it from other electronics.

Never judged a group by the actions of a few, every agency is "different", as for your comment about the HTA and throwing that info out the door when you hit the road, my, my, people sometimes make comments when stressed or nervous, but to put that on a public board and try to get respect, as an ex, I'm embarrassed and I'll leave it at that.

Kindly enlighten us which section of the OHTA "allows" this.

901 996, just S/H luck

I look at it in more of a physics way, a dozen rollers tend to act more like pressure points on the hull while the boat is on the trailer compared to a couple of bunks on each side. Bunks spread the load out over a much greater area. Sort of the same reasoning as snowshoes, just upside down.

I made my own vertical rollers, 1 on each side from parts at Princess Auto, rubber rollers, rods, etc. Like the guys above said, with enough clearance that it will guide the boat onto the centerline, but give enough flopping room. Cost me about $20.

Well lets bring him up into this part of the world and add a foot or two of snow and see how far he gets.

Either my comprehension level has plummeted drastically or it's an error, Zone 16 pg 80 Rainbow, Brown and Pacific Salmon listed as open all year round from Notty/Boyne downstream(north to GBay) understand that no problem, then on pg 82 it says from the Notty/Boyne to the Pine, within that zone, Sport licence - 0, Conservation licence -0. If it's open on page 80(like it has been for as long as I can remember in previous years), then why indicate otherwise on the next page? Is this a catch and release only zone? Somethings not right, either or, leave it open or close it all the way up to the Pine, none of this C&R crap and damage the fish anyway.

And what brand of snowblower did you get?

Couple weeks ago the perch were stacked like that in Barrie, seems like they have disappeared in the last week or so. Tasty rockies, nothing wrong with a platefull of them.

Interesting, and maybe Tracker can explain that maybe rivets hold up longer and won't leak if you run right out there and change the owners name. More likely they would have taken it in for the whole summer and maybe lent you a raft as a replacement. No tracker for me, thanks.

Naw..naw..naw...got it all wrong ostie, get a couple of dem studded rubbers on der and send it to Mike in St Hubert, I bet she do 140 on de route 20 wit a tailwin.

You can buy direct from the distribution center on Tomken Rd in Mississasage

For the engine, 10W30 or 10w40 Amsoil marine engine oil for just about every listed marine engine mfgr and Amsoil 75/80W90 API GL4/GL5 lower unit oil.

Well, I'm still not convinced it's nothing more than "hypoid oil" depending on the classification, GL4/GL5 or the viscosity weight 75/90 or80/90. I don't think the kicker will have an electric shift solenoid in the lower unit. As for the synthetics, you won't catch me without them, I've been using it for over 30 years, for me it's worked with no wear. For what Yamaha wants for "their" oil I can get 2 litres of Marine synthetic, each to his own. And by "their" oil, it's nothing more than bulk bought and rebadged with a healthy price increase. Took a bit of searching but finally found a site that gives the specs for the smaller motors, GL5 lower unit oil like I suspected and also gives your engine oil and filter, take a look at the prices. http://www.marineengine.com/parts/sierra_p...024/yamaha.html