Thinking about buying a new boat.

[Old Ironmaker]

You can buy a good and better used boat in your budget. No one is saying you have to spend over 20 grand.

[Sinker]

Call hastings marine and work out a deal on a boat with them. A buddy of mine got a brand new 16ft Lund fury with 40 yammy, bowmount, and graph for right around 15 grand. Way better set up than your looking at.

 

S.

[landry]

A better boat will come around. Be patient. Walk away from this one.

[Lape0019]

You've got two things going against you in this thread. You are asking about a Legend and you are considering under powering it. As a whole, I believe a Legend is a good boat. They just play mind tricks with you and you are falling for them which many many people do.

 

Both Tracker and Legend do this. They package a boat at a price point that makes people feel comfortable. After a year or two, they realize this boat does not perform the way it should...

 

The fact is, only you can answer this question but IMO (and many others here), that boat needs at least a 30 on it before 90% of the educated boaters will be happy with it. I've been in boats that are underpowered like that, it sucks not even being able to get on plane.

 

My own boat is rated for a 135 and has a 75 on it ( A Bass Tracker at that). I bought it this way not knowing any better but I also got lucky because the gearing will turn a bigger prop and I can still reach decent speeds. And speed isn't the major faster here, look at other items like fuel. Say you like cruising at 20MPH, that 15 might get you there ( I doubt it) but it will be at full pin, a 30 or 40 will get you there and more put will be at 3000-3500 RPM which will reduce your fuel consumption and make that motor run a lot longer without issue.

 

I get that warranty is important to you but what is really wrong with your old boat? would $1000-$1500 not fix it to the point where it would be good for another 10-15 years? Add that to the price of a new 25 and you are still ahead of buying a new boat and will have the warranty on the most important part. Most boat warranties don't cover half of the items you think they will anyway so before buying a new boat, read the warranty carefully.

 

And for the record, I know that the Tracker bashers were more than likely talking about the deep v hulls but my mod v has quite a dry ride and I would gladly buy another one. The only thing I would do different is max out the power to as close as possible (Merc doesn't make a 125 right now so it would be a 115...).

[Tjames09]

Somewhat unrelated but maybe helpful:

 

I got stuck out on Sturgeon in huge waves before a nasty storm rolled in. We were at the north end of Sturgeon and needed to head all the way back to the river. The waves were going directly west to east, and we needed to go south. My in-laws have an old boat not meant for fish with a 50 on it. The boat can go fast and gets on plane (I never realized it was possible for a boat NOT to get on plane). Anyways, I tried to boat back on plane (probably 75% throttle), and it was scary as hell bouncing all over the waves, it was definitely not safe trying to ride the tops of the waves bouncing from side to side. I ended up lowering the throttle to like 25% and driving on an angle in sort of the wrong direction zig zagging my way back riding the waves. It wasnt safe to ride the top of the waves with the amount of wind and the size of the waves.

 

I get what everyones saying in this thread about having power, but I feel like no matter the boat or the power, some storms you gotta go slow and ride the waves.

[John Bacon]

And for the record, I know that the Tracker bashers were more than likely talking about the deep v hulls but my mod v has quite a dry ride and I would gladly buy another one.

 

One of the issues with Tracker boats is the hulls cracking. Many refer to them as Cracker boats. I know someone posted that this issue has been fixed; but I would be reluctant to take a chance.

[Dutch01]

I've have a Legend 16' side console with a 40hp Merc 2 stroke. It runs 30mph tops with two guys and gear, but it takes a minute to get there.

 

In my opinion, I believe you need more power. I would not be happy if my boat had a 15 or 25.

 

You're not me, so it's your call. I'm just speaking from experience owning a similar boat.

Edited February 25, 2016 by Dutch01

[Lape0019]

JohnBacon,

 

Yes, They were known to crack and I too was concerned about this when I bought my boat but it seemed to have been related to specific models. All of the research I could find was the older 175TXW and the Avalanche boats. The avalanche was an aluminum formed bass boat ( I think a member her had one sink?) which they do not make anymore and aside from a thread every year or two about a hull cracking in their mod v because of a bad weld in the stringer, the issue does not seem to be as big as it once was.

 

My 190TX is a 2006 and it has quite a dry ride. The only time I have water in my bilge is it I take a wave over the back but coming off plane too quickly.

 

But for a boat like the OP is looking for, I have never read a single report or review of their Deep V boats cracking.

[gaspumper]

You all are beating a dead horse.The op has his mind set on getting the boat that he posted,your not going to change his mind,his money, he cannot blame anyone down the road when he is not happy.

[jedimaster]

Omg, do NOT buy that rig with a 15 are you crazy? I had a Lund with a deck in the front and floors and I had a 30hp 3cyl Yamaha. It hauled and got on plane great. A 3 cylinder minimum 30 hp. There is a big torque difference between the 2 cyl and 3 cyl outboards. A 15 may not even get on plane. That is very very very dangerous and will lead to long term reliability issues. Think about it. You say you wanna go slow, well a 15 plotting at full tilt will be slow every single time your in it. With a 30 you will jump on plane and then throttle back and cruise comfortably. It's not just safety and performance but longevity as wel. Outboards are expensive to replace. Jmho

[jedimaster]

Don't forget most 15hp are a 9.9 with a bigger carb. 25 is usually a 20 with a bigger carb. You get the idea. Get as big a motor as you can afford. Honestly if cash is the concern I would sooner buy the rig, sell the motor and buy a bigger used one.

[Dara]

You're getting taken apart there Wormdangler

[Old Ironmaker]

The fact is I'm not made of money. I'd love to go out and buy some massive bass boat with 300hp. What all of you guys are talking about is spending $20,000plus. I'd love to but I cant. I just want something reliable with a warranty and I fish small lakes.

Ive had a 12' tinned with a 9.9hp for years. I've got stuck in bad storms and I found driving slow with the waves was the way to go. There was one time I got stuck on an island cause I was camping on it.

Check the weather before you go, plan your trip, and boat safely.

No one said you have to pay 20 grand. You say you want something reliable and you don't need horsepower on a boat. A 12 footer with a 9.9 is almost over powered compared to the crap boat you are obviously buying. So why did you come here and ask and waste many here's time?

[Dara]

No one said you have to pay 20 grand. You say you want something reliable and you don't need horsepower on a boat. A 12 footer with a 9.9 is almost over powered compared to the crap boat you are obviously buying. So why did you come here and ask and waste many here's time?

Post of the month

[pike slayer]

My 12' is rated up to a 15hp. And the it just doesn't seem right to put the maximum rated motor on a boat. It just doesn't seem right in my head. That's like saying my trucks towing capacity is 10,000lb. Now should you be towing 10,000lbs? Probably not. That's probably on a good day with the wind at your back and going downhill. Now 8,000lb seems like a more safe safe weight. So for me same goes for a boat. A few mentioned going with 75% perfect of the maximum so that would be a 30hp that just makes more common sense to me.I question putting the maximum on the boat because it's probably the max weight the transom can handle and max power. Now can the hull handle that amount of speed and power of the max? No wonder way other say the hulls crack. They probably have the max and are out running a storm smashing waves. Now a few have mentioned brands but nobody has mentioned any models or anything comparable. And now Dara since you know what waters I fish what would you recommend for me?

[ecmilley]

no there built to a price and it usually involves comprmise somewhere, no boat is perfect theres is alway a degress of comprimise in any boat, and if you look around and compare boats feature for feature there really get to be close to the same price.

if

http://wwwa.autotrader.ca/a/Smoker-Craft+Inc/14+Big+Fish+%2f+20+hp+Suzuki+%2f+Trailer/WAUBAUSHENE+ON/Ontario/5_24672398_20110705124730716/?ms=boats&showcpo=ShowCPO&orup=9_15_15

i was looking for a tin boat in 14-16 ft i would try for open floor plan and a tiller.

this is an example no to much power perfect for trolling those boats can handle huge water for there size lots of space and easy to set up the way you like.

[davew3]

Worm Dangler, check on Kijiji and Autotrader. It is that time of year for private sales as people are up grading.

 

Not sure what vehicle you drive, or how far you would tow the boat, but get the biggest you can afford, for the K Lakes can blow up fast.

 

A good size out there would be 16 ft deep V with at least a 50 hp on it. If you buy small now I am sure that soon it would be "I should have got something bigger".

 

They are out there. I scored an 18.5 Smokercraft frazer with a 90 that I use on the BOQ for 4200.00 ya it is a few years old but it is in top shape.

 

Good luck.

 

 

[BassMan11]

No one said you have to pay 20 grand. You say you want something reliable and you don't need horsepower on a boat. A 12 footer with a 9.9 is almost over powered compared to the crap boat you are obviously buying. So why did you come here and ask and waste many here's time?

Yikes!

Edited February 26, 2016 by BassMan11

[landry]

Wormdangler - I am sorry but you are wrong. You are obviously an inexperienced boater and that's fine - we all were once.

Listen to the overwhelming awesome advices oven here.

You can afford a 16' with a 50 horse - no need to spend 20 grand.

It's a free world though - I just think you should stop convincing/arguing that the boat you are looking at is a good setup. It IS NOT but it will get you fishing so I guess it could be worse.

[pike slayer]

You correct I've been fishing for years but I don't have alot of experience with larger boats. I've always had 12'tinners canoes and picked up an older 16' a while back and i really enjoy some of the cpmfprts it has to offer.just seems like everything else in life you shouldn't be maxing out things. I see where you are coming from that my convincing/arguing but nobody has shown me any type of link or even a picture of another new boat to compare to. It might be wiser for most to buy used but I always buy used junk and just this one time I want something new. I have big plans in my head to put a ton of hours on it. So suggestions of brand with model and price would be very appreciated.

[dave524]

Some one else on the board just got a boat from this dealer recently, this looks really clean and in the same 12 grand ballpark as that Legend and far more boat.

 

http://www.nichollsmarine.com/used/17'%20Monark_2002_12899.00.htm

[landry]

More boats will pop up soon in the spring but here are three to compare.

 

Very Nice Boat for same price before negotiations:

 

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-powerboat-motorboat/kawartha-lakes/2011-smokercraft-pro-angler-161-w-50hp-efi-merc/1142503593?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

 

My friend has this boat. Light to tow and so much room to fish. Make an offer as his price is too high IMO. My buddy paid 9000 for the same rig basically:

 

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-powerboat-motorboat/windsor-area-on/2004-princecraft/1100200271?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

 

This sold but was a great deal:

 

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-powerboat-motorboat/sudbury/2008-lowe-aluminum-with-2010-mercury-60-hp-sold/1136775545?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

[pike slayer]

Thanks for the links! Very much appreciated. I'm not in a rush to go out and get one just yet. I'm definitely still in research stage and figured you guys would be more then happy to help.

[jjcanoe]

Check out autotrader.ca, thousands of new and used boats on there. I used it to buy my brand new Crestliner in July. Saved nearly $10,000 over a comparable boat listed now. You can search by year, by price, by brand, by length etc... keep at it, I looked for several months before I found the perfect boat for me. Go out to a couple of dealers and hop into a boat or 2. Look at floor space, live well size, rod storage length, other storage areas, portable or fixed gas tank, console size and features, seating.... You won't be able to get a sense of most of these things unless you are physically in the boat. I eliminated one boat that was on my short list (a very short, short list) by setting foot in the boat at a dealer. Go to a boat show and do the same to narrow things down. Good luck

[Old Ironmaker]

In the event you do decide to look at used boats I found this in an old file of mine. From iboats. It will come in handy for you or anyone thinking of buying a boat in the future, myself included.

 

 

 

A Good Buyers check list.

 

 

The absolute FIRST and MOST important question you should ask the seller is this.

 

DO YOU HAVE THE PROPER PAPERWORK.

 

The boat is a useless paperweight without it.

 

Absolutely positively DO NOT believe that obtaining a title is easy because in most cases it isn't. As a matter of fact offer the seller an extra $100.00 to get the proper paperwork, I bet you 95% of the time the seller will say no at that point walk away no matter how pretty and shiny the boat is WALK AWAY.

 

We are going to Start with the hull.

 

The hull.

 

 

Start at the bow outside and work your way back.

 

Go over it from bow to stern with a fine tooth comb Are there any major knicks or gashes.

 

Are there any splits in the fiberglass.

 

Look for gel coat spidering or stress cracks.

 

Is the gel coat or paint faded or is bright as if it has been cared for?

 

Is the hull straight no major dents in especially on the bottom side. I.e. an obviously visible hook in the hull.

 

Is there barnacle build up on it anywhere?

 

How does the rub rail look is it mashed in anywhere? (signs that a boat was owned by an inexperienced owner).

 

Look for brown water staining visible around the transom motor mount bolts streaking down from them (for an outboard).

 

Look for brown water staining streaking down from the splashwell plug (again an outboard).

 

Look at the trim i.e. (lights, rubrail trim, horns, anything metal) does it look pitted and corroded or well maintained?

 

Move to the inside of the hull.

 

Start from bow to stern

 

How is the general condition of the upholstery does it look well cared for?

 

How solid is the floor in ALL spots if it is spongy squishy or weak in any spots walk away (unless you are looking for a project). Don't believe that it is going to be a simple fix boats tend to rot from the bottom up.

 

Lift all the hatches and look underneath are there any signs of dampness or rot?

 

Poke prod and feel everything especially all of the hidden areas.

 

Look in the ski locker if equipped how does it look any signs of dampness or rot?

 

Look at the seat bases for signs of dampness and rot.

 

Look at the carpet is moldy and mildewed, or does it have normal wear.

 

If the floor is Plywood encased in fiberglass which is painted look for signs of delamination (fiberglass pulling up).

 

Test all of the electronics.

 

Make sure the bow and stern light are functioning properly.

Make sure the horn is working properly.

Make sure the bilge pump and blower are working properly.

Follow the wires do they look like they are properly connected and running through proper USCG approved fuse boxes? Does the wiring look like proper marine grade wire.

Test the radio and speakers make sure they are connected and working properly.

Test the steering to make sure it functions properly and easily.

 

Move to the stern.

Lift all of the hatches and motor cover.

 

Inspect the motor mounts do they look dry and clean inspect for dampness and rot.

 

How does the bilge look is it clean or has someone been draining the oil into the bilge?

 

Are there signs of brown water stains in the bilge area?

 

Inspect the transom from the inside look for signs of rot.

 

Tap on the inside of the transom with a rubber mallet how does it sound does it sound rock solid or kind of hollow does it feel solid or does it feel like mush.

 

Am I missing something here because as far as someone sending you links to new boats and respective prices it is up to you to do that. It's called shopping around.

Edited February 29, 2016 by Old Ironmaker