Installing Downriggers

[alexmedic]

I just bought a set of used electric Big Jons.

 

I plan on installing the base plates ion each side of the boat, but I have no access underneath the boat so I can use nuts to secure the bolts/plate.

 

What kind of self locking fastener would all of you recommend??

Edited July 23, 2010 by Ten90

[Fisherman]

I just bought a set of used electric Big Jons.

 

I plan on installing the base plates ion each side of the boat, but I have no access underneath the boat so I can use nuts to secure the bolts/plate.

 

What kind of self locking fastener would all of you recommend??

Well, what kind of boat do you have? Aluminum or FGlass? You can't get under the gunnels at all? Is there is piece of trim that runs along the edge on the outside of the boat? My neighbour used a plank to go across the back of the boat and used "J" bolts to hold it down on the edge trim. Maybe give us a picture or two. Barring that, where are you in Barrie? I'm just down the road from you.

[PERCHER]

Like Fisherman said pictures go along way for ideas.There is lots of rigger guys on the board that could give some great suggestions if you posted a couple pictures.

Dan

[DRIFTER_016]

Is the boat aluminum or fiberglass?

 

We need pictures to give you options so break out the camera.

Edited July 23, 2010 by DRIFTER_016

[John Bacon]

I don't have pictures at the moment but I ran a 2x6" accross the gunnels used bolts and short pieces of 2x6" to secure the plank to the gunnels. All surfaces that touch the boat are carpeted and I didn't have to put holes in the boat. Plus I can attach more rod holders etc. to the plank.

[Pigeontroller]

A transome bar is one option...You can buy them or make your own.

 

 

[alexmedic]

Thanks for all the input so far..

 

My boast is a 2004 Starcraft Star Fire.

 

I was thinking of attaching the 4x4 base plates on the gunnels here...

 

 

There is also a 2" lip..

 

 

On second look, I may be able to get my hand in the wiring ports on each side to secure nut/bolts.

 

I do like the look of the transom mount as well though.

 

If any one has any other ideas, I'd love to hear them!

[John]

Those gunnels are pretty wide, you must be able to get underneath them somewhere. Looks like an ideal spot to mount some tracks with reinforcement plates.

[DanD]

I think the board is the way to go with the install and with that 2” lip on yours; you could make it removable with a set of truck cap clamps.

Something like these.

 

 

If these clamps can hold a truck topper on at 120K highway speeds; they’ll hold the board.

You would maybe need to exchange the clamping bolt for a longer one; to have a wide enough opening?

Another good thing about clamping on a board; there’s no drilling holes in that nice looking boat.

Just throwing out a suggestion

 

Dan.

[Fisherman]

In your first picture, take out the chrome cleats, use the holes for mounting a 6" wide plank across from side to side, use longer bolts and place a bit of carpeting between the plank and gunnels. Underneath, fit the longest and widest piece of aluminum plate, (3/16" is good) that you can get in there. Once it's sandwiched together, the downriggers won't move. using longer bolts lets you replace the cleats on top of the plank. Wood to use, oak or maple, give it a couple of coats of water sealer.

[ssminnow]

I remember looking at this boat when I bought mine. Is there side storage compartments that you can reach into to get access to the underside to fasten a backing plate and nuts? I might be thinking of the wrong years model but I think it was 2004.

[DRIFTER_016]

Here's what I would do.

Put an access cover on the inside of each gunnel to acess the nuts.

Pick up a couple of these covers (they come in 4", 6" and 8" and three colours. A 6" is probably perfect.) and install them on the inside wall of the gunnels in the proper location. Then just bolt on your mounting plates and go fishing.

[alexmedic]

I remember looking at this boat when I bought mine. Is there side storage compartments that you can reach into to get access to the underside to fasten a backing plate and nuts? I might be thinking of the wrong years model but I think it was 2004.

 

 

You are right about the side rod compartments, but I think they are foamed in there permanently. I found out when I try to pull them out to run my trolling motor wire!

[alexmedic]

Thanks for all the great advice everyone, I think I'm gonna go with the wooden transom beam and the truck clamps.

 

This board is such a great wealth of knowledge!

 

I thought I would pass this suggestion on as well that I received from another board - I thought it was a great idea as well......

 

"Gday TEN90

 

I have installed riggers on my last 2 boats, one was an aluminum Sylvan and one was a Fiberglass Grew, both had sides full of styrofoam. I used Toggle Bolts and had no problems, the first couple of times out I would check tightness but never had any problems with them. Here is how you use them;

 

1) find the toggle size that has an internal thread smaller than the holes in your rigger mounting plate. Unless you want to upsize by drilling out your plate and don't cheap out, buy galvanized or stainless steel so that they will last.

 

2) Set your plate on your boat and mark dead center of the holes and center punch(aluminum) or drill (with a small bit for fibreglass), this is crutial in order to maximize support of the toggles and you do not want the drill bit to walk

 

3) find a drill bit that is a small fraction (1/64) larger than the head of your toggle bolt and drill your whole, ensure that the whole is deep enough that your toggle will pass entirely thru the solid surface material. Use a flash light to see if your hull is full of styrofoam, if it is, take a piece of coat hanger and bend at 90 degrees, put it thru the whole and ream out the foam. Then use a vacuum cleaner to suck out the scrap, the toggles are designed to hold mass when expanded fully so you don't want the foam to interfere, you may have to drill a second whole before trying to vacuum if the foam was sprayed in due to air tight spacing.

 

4) drill all 4 holes and vacuum out

 

5) run bolt thru all 4 mounting plate holes and screw on toggles, remember that the toggles open up against the back of the surface material, make sure not to put them in backwards (I did this the first time)

 

6) just before you are about to push the toggles thru spray a small bit of expansion foam in to the holes, remember expansion foam expands exponentially so a very small squirt will do. The reason for this is as follows (a) reseals the whole you have drilled ( expansion foam has an adhesive in it that will bond to all surfaces stopping the rods from backing out or the toggles from moving and stopping water from finding its way in to the wholes © it is water resistant and unlike silicon will not break down in moist conditions for many many years(d) if you decide to sell the boat and keep the riggers it will hold the toggles firm so you can back out the rods (e)it will seal the top of the holes stopping your rods from rotting off

 

7) push all toggles thru the holes and physically lift up the bolts by hand, hand tighten all the bolts equally. When I put mine on I went a full turn and a half with a rachet past hand tight. Do not over tighten, you can warp aluminum or crack fiberglass.

 

8) With this set up I run 13lb balls off the riggers on 3.5ft booms in any weather and have never had a problem.

 

Cheers

 

Saugeen"

[spincast]

I have the same boat - Starfire 160. I bought a piece of 1" maple and cut it to fit, and drilled holes to match the rear cleat holes, moved the cleats back 3 inches or so, got some 7/16th alumimum flat stock . Drilled through the maple and flat stock at the (previous) cleat holes and rigger mounts, installed flat stock under the maple at the rigger bases and under the gunwhales. Then added 2x4 supports under the riggers and mounted door hinges at the bootom of these to the rear casting deck. Used some of the big plastic (sorry can't remember the name) handles to attach the board to the gunwhales. It takes 5 - 10 mintes to set up the riggers et all. The door hinges on the castiing deck fold down when not in use, but provide support to the board when in use. Let me know if you want pics to help visulise and I will do over the weekend. So far its held up like a charm.

 

 

[Sinker]

If I had those gunnels, I'd be installing tracks on them for sure. The board works ok, but the tracks are the way to go.

 

S.

[spincast]

If I had those gunnels, I'd be installing tracks on them for sure. The board works ok, but the tracks are the way to go.

 

S.

 

 

unless you happen to have a custom cover that has snaps rivetted under the gunwhales. Cover wont fit once you put the track on.

[Tybo]

I have a custom cover on the boat and use tracks. I have no

problem with my trailer cover.There is 3 mount so far and going to add

another two.

[F7Firecat]

Get a set of tracks and mount them on the gunnel. A little bit of ingenuity can go a long way. You should have some access under them somehow.

 

www.trojantackle.ca/

 

has everything you need and he is local!

[Sinker]

I just installed a set last week, and teh cover also goes right over it no problem.

 

s.

[spincast]

you guys are more fortunate than I. My cover is so tight I can't add anything and still do the snaps up. Even where I moved the cleats - cant do them up now. If I could I would. Next year I plan on installing a set of rails in the bow so I can have rod holders up there.

[alexmedic]

Well it took me a while to complete my project. Things just seem to take longer to do these days with a 11 month old and a 2 1/2 year old!

 

So here are a few pictures of my downrigging setup:

 

 

I ended up using marine plywood. A good friend of mine had some leftover and was more than happy to help me cut it to fit.

 

\

As you can see in this picture, there is no room for lateral movement. The vertical piece of plywood is just an 1/8 of an inch from the gunnells. The 2 back cleats stop the board from shifting back and the clamps keep it all in place. I also added a piece of felt to the bottom of the board to prevent any stratching to the gunnels. A 1/8" thick piece of aluminum was also added to the top just to prevent the clamps denting the wood.

 

 

The clamps hold everything together, I have had it on the highway and at 120 km/h - not a wiggle.

 

 

As far as powering the riggers, I just used a 3 outlet extension cord. I siliconed the single end shut and the double end has a cover that can be used to keep moisture out when not in use.

 

 

 

 

 

But what I found was really the best thing about this project was the amount of support/suggestions from all the members. IT WAS AMAZING!!!

 

A special thanks to Pigeontroller and Spincast. The emails that you guys sent helped a tonne and my design is really just a copy of a little of each of yours.

 

 

In conclusion, the set-up was a success. Hit Simcoe today and caught a 9lb laker! Pictures to follow when they get emailed to me...

[John Bacon]

Nice work... a lot prettier than my setup.

[lew]

Excellent job, nice to see someone take pride in their work !!

[spincast]

Nice job, looks great.