NANUK

Simply to allow for human error, unit is designed to withstand rain from the top, there is usually a rain guard on top of the condenser fan motor, a side spray might get water in to places you don't want. A gentle water spray is not going to clean much out of a plugged coil, you need to see water come out the other side of coil, might get some spray on the motor or electrical, thats why best to call some one qualified.

You mentioned the furnace is 27 years old, How old is the A.C ? Right now is prime time for any good HVAC technician, Most are busy and you will probably pay a premium for a new install. If you just want to buy some time, get the A.C checked, chances are its low on charge, (contrary to the popular myth, the refrigerant inside the system does not get consumed or get "depressed"). It means there IS a leak ! By law the technician will have to find and fix the leak before he can top it up, Depending on the location of leak, it might get costly. it might be as simple as a leaking access fitting, or as major as a leaking evaporator coil. like mentioned above, check the condensing unit outside, it might be plugged with weeds/debris, If it is dirty/plugged, turn the power to the outside unit OFF before washing with water, keep the water spray away from the fan motor and electrical panel, wait a few hours before you turn it ON. Better not to mix electricity and water, best to call a certified tech. As for replacement, Always more cost-effective to replace both furnace and AC at the same time, better deals in early spring or fall. Stick with forced air system like you currently have, simple and better air distribution, Ductless splits are for places with no ducts and involves running pipes and wires through the walls, not to mention condensate drains. I would stay away from Heat pumps as well.

Check the trim sender cam bracket on your motor, They are prone to crack and a known problem with Yamaha, The good news is that Yamaha has corrected the problem a few years ago, the new ones are made out of stainless and cost less than $15 at your local dealer, The cam bracket is located on the steering tube in front of the motor, it looks like a black plastic hose clamp, visually it might appear to be OK but if you can move it by hand, it is broken, There is an inside and an outside tab on that cam/clamp, make note of its location, The inside tab goes in a little dimple on the steering tube and the outside tab is supposed to go under the sender unit's little arm, The sender unit is directly in front of that cam and looks like a little switch with 2 wires and a little spring loaded arm ( # 3 on the diagram below ) install a new cam/clamp same position as the old one. This diagram shows the newer ss cam and screw ( # 1 and # 2 ) http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006%20and%20Later%204-stroke/F115TLR/BRACKET%202/parts.html# if your motor already have this ss cam, the problem might be with the sending unit or the trim gauge. .

Lebarons have them Or SAYAL Electronics 3791 unit 1-5 Victoria Park Ave Markham SAYAL Electronics 7701 unit 1-3 Woodbine Ave Markham

The only reels I use mono are my downrigger reels, and the best line I found for that is P-Line CXX Extra strong. Almost everything else I use braid.

I don't know what make of boat you have but Lund does not recommend any jack plates/spacers on their transom and will not cover transom damage under warranty, I am sure some other aluminum boat makers have the same policy.

I can't remember the name but a few years ago there was a recall on one of those after market swing hitch thingy, the problem is that they are made out of cast iron and some of them were breaking/cracking, I am sure you can find that in google somewhere, The reason I asked for the trailer make is because Shorelsnder has an actual front section with swing tongue, it's a welded heavy duty hinge and an easy exchange, I paid $150 for a straight exchange at the local marina.

What is the make of trailer ?

Or wrong detergent

The wagjag deal is for Jan,13,14 and 15, good for people who like to go during the week days. Full price for weekends.

Any synthetic lube will work, most synthetic oils stay liquid up to -45, I prefer Super Lube in a spray can.

Angling specialties @ Hwy 7 & Keel, if the location suites you.

A very good survival knife, Cold Steel SRK (Survival, Rescue Knife) or Cold Steel SRK San Mai III (Much superior & laminated steel)

Look at their sizing chart http://www.fishwest.net/sizecharts/redington.htm

"There is no head like steelhead"

Good idea to take pictures when you're taking it "apart" It will be a breeze to put it back together now....LOL

I work outside a lot of times during winter, after trying several types of ice cleats I find "GRIPONS" work best for me, They are made out of carbide steel and dig in the ice as soon as you start to slip, they don't wear out as easy as regular steel spikes and are rust proof, you can order replacement studs if needed as well .

Very happy with Simms G4 wading boots, good ankle support, exteremely comfortable. I would highly recommend putting Simms Hardbite star cleats as well.

I would stay away from Frog tog for a wading jacket, that stuff is not durable if you have to go though bush/brush. Patagonia SST or Deep are great wading jackets, Simms G4 are awesome but pricy.

Put the fuse or breaker as close to battery as possiable and Keep the battery In a ventilated box.

Down East Salties are what I use for my Lk Ont wire divers, those dipsys pull hard and no issues with Salties. Yes, they can be hard on the rod handles, I usually cradle the reel in Salties so only the hard reel seat comes in contact with the holder. A plastic rod holder will fail sooner or later, it may cost you a rod & reel when it does.

That's about right in the middle of this summer's heat wave, less in the fall or early spring Things always break when needed the most

I have been using Scotty releases with my sharks with no issues, I attach the release right above the shark.

I have used the regular round type, fish shape , 10, 15 lb sharks and a 13 lb torpedo weights and like torpedo & sharks, I prefer sharks over torpedo.

I sold a pair of those older mini mags last year for $370, they didn't have swivel bases.