NANUK

Need some more information to know if you were quoted a fair price, Duct less systems can be quite expensive depending on the make, complexity of installation (power supply, condensate drains etc) number of evaporator coils and their locations (specially in a multi story application), Generally speaking, heat pumps are not a good choice below -10*C, simply because there is not much heat to be transferred from the outside at those kind of temperatures AND the compressor still has to run in heating mode. If you have a single story house and the basement is not finished, it is much better to go with a gas fired forced air furnace/A.C system. it might not be cheaper for the initial install(with duct work etc) but it'll pay for itself in a long run with lower operating costs and a lot better efficiency. BTW: Do your home work in regards to what documents/permits you may need to bring an air conditioning system(containing refrigerant) from USA, if you decide to go that route.

Are you using Lowrance supplied glass fuses? those fuse holders are known to get loose after a while, if thats the case, change them to automotive(blade style) fuses. also make sure all the spade connectors and the wires in those connectors are good and tight. you'll need a proper crimping tool.

Check your PM.

Canadian Tire sells flexable conduit(wire loom) like this http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/blackloom.php#cable-wraps2 you can find it in automotive elect section.

Daiwa Sealine SG27LCA or SG47LCA, dependable line counter reels.

Try Daiwa Samurai Braid, it cost more compare to Power Pro but its the best braid money can buy around here IMO

CARQUEST also sells the stuff

"S" terminal is not used on volt guage, they use the same housing for other guages so its easier for them to manufacture it with "S" terminal. on other guages the "S" terminal would connect to sender. on the volt guage there is a built in resister which feeds the voltage to "S" terminal from the ignition terminal, (if you check with a DC volt meter, you will get voltage readings between Ground & S terminal). just leave it alone or put some elect tape or an insulated empty spade connector on it .

Once you remove the bolts and are sure that the inner core is dry, fill the holes and cover the bolts with 3M 4200 adhesive, insert bolts and when tightening make sure you only turn the nuts NOT the bolts(very important), use flat over size washers inside the transom and regular size washers & lock nuts on the motor side, whatever adhesive oozes out just leave it alone, don't wipe it off, you can always cut off the access when dry, I wouldn't even bother. those bolts will not leak again for the life of that boat.

Please suggest a name for a 4 stk kicker made by a North American company.

I have been using Stabill, I now use Stabil Marine in every tank, I have never had fuel related problems with any of my gas engines, its is important to use a gas stabilizer in the summer because of evaporation caused by hot tempratures IMO. Seafoam is another excellent product. As far as I know Shell premium is the only gas without ethenol. I never buy gas from marinas so don't know about any ethenol free marine gas.

Daiwa Samurai Braid, cost a lot more then Power pro but by for the best and smoothest braid available around here.

Soldiers Bay Marine 134 Queens Ville Side Road Holand Landing ON L9N 1A7 905-953-0193, Speak to Paul(owner) tell him you would like him to look at your motor.

WTG on a great day with some good friends. Nothing wrong with taking home a couple of nice eater. still way less then your legal limit.

looks like a nice day!! WTG what port does he run the charter from?

As far as I knowm, Crestliner never made hulls for Legend boats, however they do make hulls for Triton's aluminum boats.

Proof of ownership is required, You don't have to carry the orignal, a photo copy is acceptable.

Get yourself a lower gear case oil pump ($10), you can use that to extract oil from the crank case through the dipstick hole.

Very nice!!! Congrats and many many years of safe boating.

Another vote for GooGone, designed for the job and works very well.

Its always a good idea to support the weight of the motor, specially havier 4 stks I can't see from the picture of your rig but transom savers need a hook up point on your trailer below the transom, do you have a cross member running the width of you trailer at the back? if you have a cross member, measure the distance(roughly)from there to your motor in tilted up (3/4 way) position, transom savers come in different legths but are adjustable within 6-10", If you do decide to buy a transom saver, go with one which keeps you motor straight. like this type with "Bolt On" bracket: http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_10205180____SearchResults

That is a rainbow trout. Juveniles have those big spots around lateral line.

The metal pin just slides out, might be a few years since some one took that pin out so it might need a gentle tap or two, after the pin is out just slide the spool off, install new spring, make sure the spring does not get caught in between the spool and rigger body and the pin is back in the clutch groove when you put everything back togather.

WOW!!!I have not seen a better thought/laid out & well made boat then this....WOW!!!!! and that Yamaha SHO, they don't call it "The game changer" for nothing. people have to get used to believing that its a 4 stroke. Congrats!!

Another vote for Michelin LTX M+S, have them on my truck for the last 5 years, The best all season tire IMO.