NANUK

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I assume the unit is icing up inside (evaporator coil in furnace) If the filter is clean and the fan is running chances are that it is low on refrigerant. Call a certified technician, the system has to be leak tested and recharged, Make sure the technician attach an ODP sticker when finished, that basically means that there are no more leaks in the system at the time he leaves. It is illegal to charge a system with refrigerat without repairing and leak testing it,

That's called "Making oil", it is gas mixing in oil. Not unheard of in 4 stroke outboards, Make sure you do a proper break in procedure as recommended in the manual. In extreme cases a replacement of thermostat might be required but don't panic for now. Hopefully the problem will go away after the break in and rings will seat properly.(most do) Never over fill the oil, a hair less is better. Keep an eye on oil level.

Isn't it a brand new boat ? I would take it right back to the dealer and tell them to make it right.

Stay in marked chanels if doing any speed, That area is full of treacherous rock shoals. Every peice of structure looks ideal to fish but find some weeds close to sharp drop offs

The existing prop size sounds right for that motor, also the speed you mentioned is what you will get from that setup. I assume you're running around 57k - 58 k RPM @ WOT, you don't want to drop on pitch if those are your RPM. every deg of pitch will make approx 200 RPM difference (lower pitch = higher RPM )

8 years with Top Gun custom cover, No mold, mildew of any sort whatsoever, I have never even washed it since 2004

X2 for Yamaha , not only reliable but the best tiller handle with RPM control. As for boat HP capacity rating, it's only a manf recommendation in Canada. Do not go over the rating if you plan on fishing USA side, it is enforced on that side and you could be pulled off the water . Another thing to consider is insurance, putting a bigger motor is not a good idea if there is ever an issue with a claim.

BPS Walleye Angler Special are great all round rods, very light and sensitive, I have a 7' version wich is a bouncer rod but also excellent for casting and trolling (my favourite) they come in various sizes and you don't have to break the bank to buy one.

whatever cover you have it make sure it's made for tavelling as well (that's why I suggested a tight fit in my previous post) You want to keep the road grime and mud off the boat when driving down the highway in a heavy down pour. Indoor storage is the best for storage, especially during winter if you can.

Top Gun !! I have a custom cover, 8 years and no tears or rips, The key to a good cover is a tight fit so it doesn't flop around in the wind and damage itself. Custom covers are not cheap but well worth it.

Cheese only makes them stronger

Leave the existing wiring for manual operation. Get a float switch, mount it in an un obstructed and suitable location in the bilge area. One wire from float switch to + terminal of battery (use an in-line fuse) Connect The other wire from float switch to live (+) wire of bilge pump. Now you can turn the pump ON with your existing manual switch of it will also work automatically if the float switch activates due to water level in the bilge.

How much oil was on that plug ? It's normal for the bottom plug to be a little "wet" and having a bit of carbon compare to the other 3, Like mentioned by others, keep an eye on oil level and NEVER over fill, in fact it is better to keep it slightly lower then the full mark on the dipstick.

The oil stains on drive way will disappear in a few weeks, I get them every year, they are not permanent.

I use Team Daiwa Luna 253 for casting and 300 for trolling. I like the Luna better then my Shimano Calcutta B,

I have used Scotty, Canon and Big Jon, I like the built quality of Big Jon and functionality of Canons Currently running Canons and very happy with them.

Another vote for Shoal Digger jigs, the best quality in that style (weight forward) jigs, tipped with a micro tube. Williams half & half Or just a live minnow sitting at the bottom

Clean the aluminum base with a wire brush or fine sandpaper, just don't over do it or it will be too loose, Use a non pertrolium base lubricant if you really have to like bees wax or graphite. Using a pertrolium base product like WD40 or grease may cause the plastic seat post to swell over time and make the problem worst.

2 drift socks tied to front bow eye (one on each side) just long enough to reach midship will slow the boat down almost to a halt , MinnKota are ok for occasional use but if you're going to be using them on regular bases, Amish outfitters trolling bags are the way to go with adjustable cone opening.

I have been using Krown Rust Proofing for the last 16 years, No rust on my vehicles

Lots of them all around the lake,depends what part of the lake you're fishing. do a goole search. Look up these for a starter Virginia Beach Marina Harry' bait Bonnie boats Blue beacon marina Just to name a few

I prefer my Daiwa Zillion over all the other baitcasters

Deep cycle batteries usually have "Amp Hour" rating Starting batteries usually have "Cold Cranking Amp" ratings Are you sure the ones you mention are deep cycle? Just wondering

Pro J tackle (Warden & Sheppard) has them when season opens