Fisherman

Jeez, get Wayne to fly you down and boot you out on a static chute from 600, won't be too far off the mark and you'll have enough gawkers to point you in the right direction.

Princess Auto has them coming on sale on Tuesday 25th May, they are travel and storage covers.

When I was 38 or so, I started with a Scotty manual, had good strength, no problem, up and down was more of a annoyance than work. About 10 years ago I went with one more electric, alone in the boat, steering, reeling and cranking and netting..no I'm not an octopus, good move. Last year I found one more orphaned Scotty electric, no effort, pop the release, balls up, auto shutoff. If I knew then what I know know, it would have been electric from the start. I know, a bit more dollars, a few less beer and pizza and poof, an electric riggers shows up.

hahahahaha..ya they got those suckers wrapped up all right, Gp 27N battery at Wmart, $97, 155 min reserve cap, Gp 34D Optima at Wmart, $239 with 120 min res cap, either we have some really rich people, or a bunch really need to take grade 3 arithmetic over again..two or three times for good measure

For those that have a great raging hard fishing rod for the Optimas, you should really go and check numbers, ie the useful time period(amount of amps in the battery) compared to others of the same size(Group number) and then see the difference in price. I'm sure the guy that came up with the Six pack configuration must have figured we all drink beer by six packs...so they must be better than the "normal" shaped battery. But..it's your money..

I think I may have the smaller package, I only needed 3 per side. As for leaving the bow tied up, yes if it's a steep ramp. As for the grit, haven't had any problem with that. Mines aluminum, no problems.

Yes Roy, I've had mine for 4 years now, makes it a whole lot easier to launch, a quick tap on the brakes and the boat slides off and a a lot easier when cranking it back up. Last I checked, no appreciable wear on the glide slicks, should be good for a long time yet.

Nothing but gibberish and hyroglypics on my screen

Go with the Michelins, ya they cost a bit more, but, in the loooong run, they pay off, my next set this fall will be LTX MS/2, nothing else.

Somebodies been training a chimp to pound on the keyboard again

Best I can remember is prices are in US, thought it said somewhere in the catalogue. The only ones that are CDN are the flyers we get up here.

Unless the present owner comes up with the proper vessel registration paper, it's "his problem" if he didn't register it to his name after "buying" it and until he has the correct paper, then you can't legally get it transferred and registered in your name. Like Wayne, Terry and Roy said, get a "real" check done. If you don't and get caught on a routine check, don't come crying, the river's already deep enough.

Well maybe it has been found from the site above, it appears as #24 in the drawing, above the cavitation plate on the opposite side of the lower unit drain and fill plugs. Here: http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/34077.cfm

Booboo

Well I looked at a couple of the on line manuals, can't find a motor oil drain plug, must have been a real brain sturgeon to forget that one. Wonder why I have a Honda.

It may be a small screw on the side of the body of the motor case, just below the level of the motor inside, you don't have the manual.

No problem, for your question, I'll say that both of your batteries have been depleted to.. say 50%. The battery that is stored indoors will survive a bit better not being subjected to freezing, the battery left outside in the freezing cold will most likely freeze solid by the time you hit -20C and then be physically damaged..no revival. Now to go a bit further, when you leave batteries inactive (not on a maintenance charger for long periods such as over 30 days) they begin to sulfate,(chemical reaction) the slow steady reaction of the acid on the plates causes the plates to get a crystalized coating on them and it is really difficult to reverse that reaction. I know some of this stuff sounds like making yeast bread to some, but, go to the VDC Electronics site for some reading. Heck I've still got a 12V7A Gell cell from about 15-16 years ago when I used my F/F without having a big battery in the boat. What John Bacon said above is true, the cold just slows down the chemical reaction that "makes" the power when you turn the key.

Too complicated, for you I'll call it science or magic, take your pick, but that's how it works.

When a battery is fully charged, (specific gravity of 1.260 or about 12.7 volts measured after charging and waiting a day, that battery will not freeze until you hit about -60), if it gets that cold where you are, I'd be more worried about long underwear and having other parts get frosted. I store mine on the cement floor in the garage, although it's heated to about +5C, the floor is pretty close to 0C.

Man, how stories are twisted, many years ago battery cases were made of a porous material, not leaky but just porous enough that the acid could react with the cement, Cement is a base substance (alkaline) and when it reacted with battery acid it neutralized the fluid in the battery, therefore no more electrical reaction or "the battery died" because it was sitting on cement.

Nice camp grill, works well but, I think you really need to get back to nature a bit more....motorhome is overkill, I see a basic hutchie in your future..

The battery that is giving the 10.2 reading has a bad cell, most likely shorted and not much you can do about that one, hopefully there's some warranty left on it.

I have some mountain property for sale in Florida, real cheap. Now you know which battery guy to stay away from, he's full of it.

Going by your quote above, I'm suspecting that you are failing to completely recharge the batteries at the end of each day. People buy batteries, use them and when they go bad, they blame the battery, the charger, their dog, the wife, etc, when in most cases, it's the operator. Batteries are like expensive girlfriends, you put them away wet(discharged/partially discharged)and they will get angry and moldy(won't work to their full capacity anymore). Even the best brands and quality batteries "don't like" to be discharged much below 50%, some will tolerate down to about 80% discharge but that is the extreme low end. You must recharge them, and keep them on a charger such as the one mentioned above, CTEK or Battery Minder(VDC Electronics). They will maintain your batteries over the storage season. My boat battery is 7 years old, stil holds 90% load rating. Last year my RV battery finally pooched, but, it was 11 years old. Treat them right, they will reciprocate.

Tighten the spindle nut real good and tight all the way..You will never work on any equipment of mine that has bearings. We are not dealing with Terex Titans or transport trucks, it's a small trailer wheel bearing.