Fisherman

I would hope that if they build in Ontario that it's north of Toronto, like around Barrie, save me the trip in that retarded traffic to BPro. I'm sure there's enough customers in the area that would oblige.

Are you using marine epoxy or polyester resin? Big difference. Epoxies will give you a cure time on the container, anywhere from 5 minutes to 24 hours. Resin on the other hand can go from 10 minutes(like auto bondo) to an hour or more, depending on mix, humidity and temperature.

Unless your fuel pump is before the primer bulb, it will not stay real stiff. Mine gets pumped up a bit and then the motor fuel pump takes over and draws the gas from the tank. The rest of the time it's quite soft.

The vent has to be open, air replaces the gas as it is used otherwise you'll have a vacuum in there.

Princess Auto carries C/B's from 20-50A or the large Maxi fuses from 20-70A. They also have C/B's that fit into the same place that fuses go. From $3.99 for either.

We have 2 Ford 6.4 Powerjokes at work, one can't get under 20l/100km,(cab & a half), the other, a reg cab can't get under 17l/100km at the best of times, I'll keep my 5.9 Cummins that regularly goes 12.5l/100km.

Jeez, get Wayne to fly you down and boot you out on a static chute from 600, won't be too far off the mark and you'll have enough gawkers to point you in the right direction.

Princess Auto has them coming on sale on Tuesday 25th May, they are travel and storage covers.

When I was 38 or so, I started with a Scotty manual, had good strength, no problem, up and down was more of a annoyance than work. About 10 years ago I went with one more electric, alone in the boat, steering, reeling and cranking and netting..no I'm not an octopus, good move. Last year I found one more orphaned Scotty electric, no effort, pop the release, balls up, auto shutoff. If I knew then what I know know, it would have been electric from the start. I know, a bit more dollars, a few less beer and pizza and poof, an electric riggers shows up.

hahahahaha..ya they got those suckers wrapped up all right, Gp 27N battery at Wmart, $97, 155 min reserve cap, Gp 34D Optima at Wmart, $239 with 120 min res cap, either we have some really rich people, or a bunch really need to take grade 3 arithmetic over again..two or three times for good measure

For those that have a great raging hard fishing rod for the Optimas, you should really go and check numbers, ie the useful time period(amount of amps in the battery) compared to others of the same size(Group number) and then see the difference in price. I'm sure the guy that came up with the Six pack configuration must have figured we all drink beer by six packs...so they must be better than the "normal" shaped battery. But..it's your money..

I think I may have the smaller package, I only needed 3 per side. As for leaving the bow tied up, yes if it's a steep ramp. As for the grit, haven't had any problem with that. Mines aluminum, no problems.

Yes Roy, I've had mine for 4 years now, makes it a whole lot easier to launch, a quick tap on the brakes and the boat slides off and a a lot easier when cranking it back up. Last I checked, no appreciable wear on the glide slicks, should be good for a long time yet.

Nothing but gibberish and hyroglypics on my screen

Go with the Michelins, ya they cost a bit more, but, in the loooong run, they pay off, my next set this fall will be LTX MS/2, nothing else.

Somebodies been training a chimp to pound on the keyboard again

Best I can remember is prices are in US, thought it said somewhere in the catalogue. The only ones that are CDN are the flyers we get up here.

Unless the present owner comes up with the proper vessel registration paper, it's "his problem" if he didn't register it to his name after "buying" it and until he has the correct paper, then you can't legally get it transferred and registered in your name. Like Wayne, Terry and Roy said, get a "real" check done. If you don't and get caught on a routine check, don't come crying, the river's already deep enough.

Well maybe it has been found from the site above, it appears as #24 in the drawing, above the cavitation plate on the opposite side of the lower unit drain and fill plugs. Here: http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/34077.cfm

Booboo

Well I looked at a couple of the on line manuals, can't find a motor oil drain plug, must have been a real brain sturgeon to forget that one. Wonder why I have a Honda.

It may be a small screw on the side of the body of the motor case, just below the level of the motor inside, you don't have the manual.

No problem, for your question, I'll say that both of your batteries have been depleted to.. say 50%. The battery that is stored indoors will survive a bit better not being subjected to freezing, the battery left outside in the freezing cold will most likely freeze solid by the time you hit -20C and then be physically damaged..no revival. Now to go a bit further, when you leave batteries inactive (not on a maintenance charger for long periods such as over 30 days) they begin to sulfate,(chemical reaction) the slow steady reaction of the acid on the plates causes the plates to get a crystalized coating on them and it is really difficult to reverse that reaction. I know some of this stuff sounds like making yeast bread to some, but, go to the VDC Electronics site for some reading. Heck I've still got a 12V7A Gell cell from about 15-16 years ago when I used my F/F without having a big battery in the boat. What John Bacon said above is true, the cold just slows down the chemical reaction that "makes" the power when you turn the key.

Too complicated, for you I'll call it science or magic, take your pick, but that's how it works.

When a battery is fully charged, (specific gravity of 1.260 or about 12.7 volts measured after charging and waiting a day, that battery will not freeze until you hit about -60), if it gets that cold where you are, I'd be more worried about long underwear and having other parts get frosted. I store mine on the cement floor in the garage, although it's heated to about +5C, the floor is pretty close to 0C.