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4Runner brake work. NF


captpierre

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Just picked up my 2013 ride from dealer for routine service.

Been a great vehicle so far.

78K km.

Was told have 30-35 % brake pads left.

Sliders seized and rusted.

They want to do all 4 brakes.

$1200

Does this sound right or am I being ripped?

My GMC Safaris (3) that I've had got 100-110K Kms before brakes needed replacing.

I drive conservatively. Mostly highway.

Coast a lot to lights.

Kinda disappointed.

I did decline recommended bake servicing in the spring.

Maybe that's why?

Appreciate comments from you boys.

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I would get a second opinion if you are concerned. the whole package pads and rotors should not cost more than $600 for the good stuff. labour maybe a few hours.

 

Personally If there is 35% left, i would replace them in the summer. buy the pads and sand the current rotors.

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If your sliders are seized then you'll only wear one side of the brake pads and rotors are probably toast. If they are really seized you may brake hard and go out of control. The rotors of today are throw aways anyhow.

 

Quickly hitting partsmonkey.. pads and rotors + some guide pin parts adds up to $630 and possibly another 80 bucks or so if you need all the rubber boots etc.

 

Shop rate is at or near $100 an hour and I'd say at least 4 hours there if your caliper pistons aren't seized. If they are, you're into more $'s for parts and labour.

 

One reason for calipers and such seizing is nobody really hits the brakes anymore and junk steel. I've always told my kids to get out on the road from time to time, look in the mirror and jam the pedal through the floor for a full lock up. It keeps things working and from seizing into the "groves" of light city driving.

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One reason for calipers and such seizing is nobody really hits the brakes anymore and junk steel. I've always told my kids to get out on the road from time to time, look in the mirror and jam the pedal through the floor for a full lock up. It keeps things working and from seizing into the "groves" of light city driving.

Lol kind of like doing a italian tune up.

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That's about average price for a 4 way brake job at a dealer, including new rotors. Servicing your brakes will lengthen their life for sure. I do mine when I change my tires seasonally, and once a year on my f150. I generally spring for a new brake hardware kit once per year for both vehicles also, new clips etc.

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Is there any issue with it? Brakes feel weird? What do they do in routine service? I may be wrong, but how can they tell without taking the brakes apart that the sliders have seized?

 

 

Up you're wrong. LOL

With the wheels off, push caliper piston back Approx 1/8" to 1/4", attempt to to move caliper back and forth on sliders. If the caliper does not move easily if at all, the sliders are seized; takes less then 5 minutes after the wheels are removed.

 

Dan.

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Good topic. I'd like to share my recent experience (June) of getting brakes repaired on my F150 that involved a quote from my local Ford dealer. Dealer quoted $2600.00 to install 4 new rotors, 4 sets of pads, & 1 front calliper that they say was seized. I almost went for the repair but, declined as I wanted to get prices for the parts. I called our local Napa dealer, was quoted $580.00 for their best rotors & pads. I did the job myself in my driveway. Yes it took 12 nhours of my time but I saved myself $2,000.00. That Ford dealer will never see me again! Oh & the front calliper was not seized. BEWARE!!

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Watch your fronts on the f150 and replace the brake clips yearly WD. Mine have a tendency to bind in the clips and it will cause a slight drag on one pad if I don't service and replace the hardware often, it could be mistake for a seized or sticky slide pin. Don't forget to clean out the rust and debris that forms below the clips on the caliper as well, that alone can cause poor performance. Funny enough my rear brakes had 100k and never an issue until I changed em.

Edited by porkpie
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Go to Rockauto.com for ANY auto parts and save a bundle.....plus you have a lot of different grades to choose from when it comes to brakes..........Here are HEAVY DUTY Power Stop parts for both front and rear including both new rotors and new pads all the way around for $356.....

 

Go on Youtube and watch how EASY it is to do this yourself and save about $800.....

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2013,4runner,4.0l+v6,1504997,brake/wheel+hub,rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,13824?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+%2F

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Thanx for the info Mister G. I'll bookmark rock auto for sure. I watched several YouTube videos before I started my break job. I failed to mention in my previous post that the dealer's quote did not include replacing the e brakes which I also did for an additional $80.00 in parts.

Good point Porkpie about checking the clips & other hardware. Thanx

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Thanx for the info Mister G. I'll bookmark rock auto for sure. I watched several YouTube videos before I started my break job. I failed to mention in my previous post that the dealer's quote did not include replacing the e brakes which I also did for an additional $80.00 in parts.

Good point Porkpie about checking the clips & other hardware. Thanx

The trick sometimes when ordering from Rockauto.com especially if they are air filters OR cabin filters is to keep adding extra filters in the basket until the shipping increases. So for a rough example a cabin filter is $3 but shipping is $5.......add a few more cabin filters until the shipping goes up.......so many times you can get 3-4 filters shipped to you for the same amount as one filter.....and they don't have to be the same filters.

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If your sliders are seized then you'll only wear one side of the brake pads and rotors are probably toast. If they are really seized you may brake hard and go out of control. The rotors of today are throw aways anyhow.

 

Quickly hitting partsmonkey.. pads and rotors + some guide pin parts adds up to $630 and possibly another 80 bucks or so if you need all the rubber boots etc.

 

Shop rate is at or near $100 an hour and I'd say at least 4 hours there if your caliper pistons aren't seized. If they are, you're into more $'s for parts and labour.

 

One reason for calipers and such seizing is nobody really hits the brakes anymore and junk steel. I've always told my kids to get out on the road from time to time, look in the mirror and jam the pedal through the floor for a full lock up. It keeps things working and from seizing into the "groves" of light city driving.

Thanks for that. I hardly ever lean on the brakes hard.

So you are saying that is a good thing to do occasionally ?

Until the antilock system kicks in?

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It's actually good to get the ABS pulsing IMHO. I feel it keeps lazy caliper pistons from seizing. Light stop and go you may not even be using all 4 brakes, it may only be the one that extends the easiest and then the lazy ones seize.

 

And Ketch.. thanks for the laugh. Leah worked for Manzone in Oro / gasoline alley when she was about 16/17. His idea of a "tune up" was to take an old ladies 440 Newport for a full throttle boot to Orillia and back !

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Up you're wrong. LOL

With the wheels off, push caliper piston back Approx 1/8" to 1/4", attempt to to move caliper back and forth on sliders. If the caliper does not move easily if at all, the sliders are seized; takes less then 5 minutes after the wheels are removed.

 

Dan

Learn somethin new every day! :). Thanks

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When you go to the dealer, it's instant rip off. I built up trust in a local shop, and go to them with all my problems. I too drive a 4 runner, but would never get it serviced at the dealer!

The guys I deal with now are as honest as they get. I've built a great relationship with them and it has saved me tons of money! That being said.... with 3 cars in our driveway, I'm pretty sure I've put a couple of his kids through college LOL

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Say what... on todays POS hub design there is no reason to do the wheel bearings before the hub fails (and they will). Todays terrible design is unserviceable, with two bearing way too close together to take the torque load they are supposed to. I've replaced countless hubs on family vehicles in the past years, yet my '69 Bee still has it's original bearings in place for 47 years and they will be going back cleaned and repacked during the restoration this winter.

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Say what... on todays POS hub design there is no reason to do the wheel bearings before the hub fails (and they will). Todays terrible design is unserviceable, with two bearing way too close together to take the torque load they are supposed to. I've replaced countless hubs on family vehicles in the past years, yet my '69 Bee still has it's original bearings in place for 47 years and they will be going back cleaned and repacked during the restoration this winter.

 

i've got a 2005 f-150 with 105,000 km on it, front passenger bearing went on me a couple weeks ago, the wheel was moving when i drove to the mechanic, cost $661 to get the one replaced. front drivers side has started squaking, so time to start thinking about replacing it. I was looking at just replacing the hub, since its 5 bolts to remove it, once you get the brakes off.

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