New to me bass boat, and a few questions for owners.

[Bass Tard]

Hey guys, I just picked up a new to me used bass boat. I've owned an '89 Bass Tracker 17' for the past 8 years and the time had come to finally upgrade. Did much searching and wondering what my next boat should be, really wanted something aluminum which turns out, is hard to come by in a bass boat. I also didn't really want anything over a 115, just due to fuel economy so to speak.

Oldy, in its last week out with me this year, we spent a week on Stoco lake for bass opener, fishing was hot, boat ran great.

 

While I was there on vacation, I found its replacement on Kijiji, I wound up sending the guy money sight unseen because he had someone else coming up to buy it, and I was too far away to come sooner.. I was pretty happy with the condition of it when I got there. Another "cracker"! Suits the majority of my wish list, and was "cheap" so to speak..

 

 

 

 

Just spent the week on pigeon lake with it, ran well, its borderline scary fast, but I want it to be faster. Caught a couple decent fish in it, but that's a whole nother thread.

 

So, my questions for bass boat owners..

Whats the advantage of a SS prop VS. aluminum? Will I still gain top end speed by going to the next pitch if I stick with aluminum?

 

The current trolling motor is a poop Motor Guide that's only 46lbs of thrust and 12V, which is much too small for this boat. I'm going to pick up a used Minnkota (way better motor) that's 24V this weekend, do I need to completely rewire from front to back to run a 24V?

 

Any recommendations for GPS/sonar units under $1000? I was looking at the Hummingbird Helix5, should I just troll Kijiji until a bargain pops up?

 

How do you organize your rods in the storage locker? Mine are all clanging together under the deck now, I looked at those plastic rod socks, but they're $9 each?! Seems expensive for what it is.. Just wondering if there's a better solution.

 

How do you guys clean your aluminum boats after they've been in the water for a week? Mine has dried on hard water spots since its a black powdercoated finish. It looks terrible after only one week.

 

And how do you protect your boat from docks? Do regular bumpers work on such a small freeboard? I wound up buying pool noodles while I was up there and managed to keep it off the dock "okay", but it didn't work great..

 

Thanks for looking, any insight would be appreciated!

Edited July 25, 2016 by Bass Trap

[Pigeontroller]

How fast does she go???

 

Get a SS prop, the Apollo by Michigan wheel products is not badly priced.

[Raf]

if you fish a body of water full of hazards or if you're prone to hitting said hazards with a prop, stick to aluminum for your prop.

Edited July 25, 2016 by Raf

[Bass Tard]

39mph was the top speed I hit last week in it. Its as fast as I've ever driven a boat and I got a bit uneasy as I started crossing wakes.

 

And I am prone to hitting hazards. Since I don't own a cottage, I got to new lakes all the time, and its always a learning process. I'm just wondering if a new aluminum prop will still net me the same top end gains as a SS would?!

[Lape0019]

Hey Bass Trap,

 

I'll start by saying your speed is too low. I've got the same boat with an 06 75 fourstroke and can hit 38 at WOT. I've had the boat since 2010 and still love it. I think you'll be happy with it! Also, most guys with the 90 are running between 44 and 47MPH. There is one guy running a tad faster biut he's running a 5.5" jackplate which if you care, will void a transom warranty which depending on your boat, you may or may not have.

 

Secondly, the big difference between a stainless prop and an aluminum is the way they flex, an aluminum prop if say a 21p under load with flex to a 20 of 19p prop it just doesn't have the same rigidity. A stainless won't lose its shape at all.

 

What is on there now (size and pitch) and what hole is the motor mounted on as it looks a little low to me. Mine was raised one hole when I got it so I'm assuming Tracker sets them low at the factory.

 

Fishfinder? Take a look around, you may be able to find a new old core unit from Humminbird. I know Paddletales in Winchester (call him, he will ship out if you're interested) still had a 959di for under your price range and radioworld.ca had a few the last time I checked. If you want a helix, get the biggest screen you can afford. I'd rather a helix 9 with 2d sonar over a helix 5 or 7 with si just so I could see more of the chart while running and so would not be easy to see in a 5" screen.

 

MG pro series 46? Absolute junk of a trolling motor. I upgraded to an 80lb MK terrova with ipilot and couldn't be happier. I upgraded everything from the 8 or 10 guage wire to 6 guage wire. Installed a new MK plug and breaker at the same time. I had just spent a lot in a TM and didn't want some old stuff to fail. Many people will run a 24 in existing wiring but I wanted to make sure I wasn't harming anything. Plus, there is a link on the MK site that shows you what they recommend for the length of wire used. In my case, I needed 6 guage.

 

Now, I do run Rod socks on all of my rods. It's more about trying to protect the rods but man it makes it easier to take them out of the Rod locker. You can buy a large role if that fabric on eBay and grab some heat shrink tubes and make your own for way less. Plus, it's way cheaper.

 

As for a leaning the hull, I haven't found anything that isn't labour intensive. I have polished the hull once and it looked great! It lasted well for a season with a wipe down with a spray wax after every dunk but the lines are back now. Water spots are a pain but the same spray wax does an alright job on them. I use the meguires stuff but there are better products out there.

 

If you e got any other questions about the boat, let me know and I'll be happy to help!

[landry]

I would wait u till then really min Kota ultrex and other units come out this fall as they will all have updated spot lock accuracy - if spot lock is on your wish list.

[Bass Tard]

 

 

Wow, great post, thanks!!

 

I don't really know much about the speed, what I read online was 41ish was the most I'd get out of this motor/prop setup. I have no idea what's the max RPM for the Optimax, so I was running it just under 5,000rpm to hit 39. I'm scared to break anything!!

Also, I'm not sure about prop pitch.. I believe it has a 19 on it now, and from what I understand, taking it to a 20 will get me about 5 more mph. Plus, it would just be reassuring to have a spare prop. I don't think I'll spend on a jack plate, its actually plenty fast (for right now), just wondering how I can get a bit more in the future.. I also don't know if it can go any higher or lower?! Haven't even thought of that..

 

Good info about the sonar too. I'll check on that radioworld site, and I'll keep my eyes out on Kijiji for something used. I've never had a GPS tracker, I've always just used my phone, but it would come in really handy since I'm always on new lakes.

 

And yes, this is the WORST trolling motor I've ever used. It was driving me insane. I've always had Minnkota for the last 15 years since having a motor guide stealth on our old boat and it was nothing but problems. This one is no exception. Found a used 76lbs on Kijiji for under $400, it has a built in transducer for when I do move the current fish finder up to the front. I miss my old minnkota foot pedal, much more ergonomically friendly.

I don't think the new hold feature really will mean much to me, its not something I'm ever concerned about.. If I'm going to walleye fish, I usually just drop anchor..

 

What do I search for on ebay for that rod sock material? I was shocked at the price, I thought it would be like $5 each, max!

 

 

[Lape0019]

Look on the back of the merc and you will see a white sticker with your model number on it. It will also have a mad rpm on it. Mine is 5500 but the governed doesn't kick in until 6200. If you look online with the serial number, you can find a lot of info on it.

 

On eBay, search wire cover and you should get a few results.

 

Moving the motor up or down on the transom is something that two guys can do but if you're not comfortable doing this type of thing, it's better to have a marina with the proper tools do it. And then there is the trim switch which I'll assume you are already using.

 

The place I was getting the speeds I quoted was here. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/tracker.htm

 

Just search 190 and you'll find a few guys running 21p props. It'll give you a good idea as to what they are all running. Their forums (tin boats) is also a great resource for people with frackers and little more they've done. They are running stainless for the most part which are typically a little faster because they don't lose shape. Your holeshot will be a little worse though as it will take longer for a bigger prop to spool up. I notice a difference between my 17 and 19.

[porkpie]

I know nothing about bass boats, but buy the rod socks. Some of the best cash I've spent, and worth it to keep the disaster tangles down in the rod locker.

[John Bacon]

If most of your fishing is casting around logs and shallow weed beds, then I would recommend a cable steer bow mount over an iPilot. The iPilot / Xi5 units have an advantage for trolling and with spot lock, etc. But cable steer will give you better control when your manuvering around structure.

You should not have to upgrade your wiring for a 24v motor. A 24v motor actually draws fewer amps than a 12v motor; so your not going to be drawing any more amps than your current motor. Having said that; my boat was pre-wired with 12g wire which is inadequate for a trolling motor. I wouldn't assume that the stock wiring is adequate. I melted the fuse holder on mine.

[Garnet]

So the first question is max RPM. Likely 5600. So at full tournament or fishing load livewell full you want your boat to run wide open just below to 5600 with a descend hole shot.

 

A jake plate is the way to go. You should be able to buy a 4 inch jake plate cheap. Moving the motor/jackplate up 1/4 inch will add 200 rpm.

 

You will wire trolling motor in series so the 2 wire going to the battery compartment is all you need.

 

Don't start prop work until you get 24 volt troller. Boats are sensitive to weight.

[ecmilley]

those smaller aluminum bass boats usally had 45-55lb motors and are fairly adequate in that application, that being said make sure all cells on your battery are good if you feels its weak.

if updating to a minn kota cable steer 24vt make sure you have enough room for all three batterys, the minnkota foot pedal rather large as well you might want to trial fit it with the front pedestal seat in.

also motor heavier. lost 2mph when I put a kota on

[Lape0019]

Ecmilly,

 

That's an 18.5 foot bass tracker. It was for the longest time the larger mod v bass boat tracker made. The 46lb TM it came with was adequate in perfect conditions but terrible in anything over a 6" chop. I was fishing on lake st Francis with mine one day and all the Motorguide would do was allow me to turn left or right. It would not allow me to troll into the waves at all.

 

A 55 would possibly do it for the 17.5 model but this PT190 needs a 24v at minimum.

[ecmilley]

Ecmilly,

 

That's an 18.5 foot bass tracker. It was for the longest time the larger mod v bass boat tracker made. The 46lb TM it came with was adequate in perfect conditions but terrible in anything over a 6" chop. I was fishing on lake st Francis with mine one day and all the Motorguide would do was allow me to turn left or right. It would not allow me to troll into the waves at all.

 

A 55 would possibly do it for the 17.5 model but this PT190 needs a 24v at minimum.

had a 55 on a 18ft ranger that worked good in most conditions short of a gale and its not a light boat be surprised the 46 no good on something that weight

[bigbuck]

Know this, you hit a stump or a rock with a ss prop, you will be needing a new prop shaft etc.... costing a few grand. A couple mph is not worth it. Try a run at full tilt. You need to know where you are rpm wise at wot to help you with selecting a prop. A 24v trolling motor will make a world of difference but it adds the weight of an extra battery. You should re wire it with a good thick guage of wire, thicker the better because you will have bettercurrent flow to the motor, helping it last longer and work more efficiently. Go with brand new for a fish finder. You will have a warrantee. Save up a bit longer if need be. Enjoy your boat.

[DaveRoach]

Great looking set up........Congrats

[Terry]

I find if I hit wood with my SS prop it takes a slices of wood off the stump and does no damage to the prop

if I hit rocks it bends the prop and the prop is expensive to repair

the old chopper type ss props would screw up your lower end but with the rubber hubs in ss propers today you just spin the hub leaving the lowerend untouched

[Bass Tard]

Wow, thanks again for all the great answers! I'm going to check those forums so I can see what other people with the same boat as me have done. I will also check the sticker on the back and find out what my max RPM is, that's a great idea.

 

About the trolling motor, its definitely not enough. My old 17 had a 42lbs minnkota and it was hardly adequate, this boat is much bigger and only has a 46 on it.. I rely heavily on my trolling motor, it get probably 10X the use of my actual gas motor. I like the big pedal of the minnkota, the motor guide also seems really terrible in the weeds compared to my old minnkota. I'm really disappointed with this trolling motor setup. I'm not looking for ipilot or anything like that, my friend has one on his boat, I don't like the pedal at all. The one I'm looking at is a maxxum I think, and it has the same big pedal as my old motor did. It also has a transducer in the bottom of it, which aside from way more thrust, is the only other feature I'm interested in.

 

I do think wedging another battery in the rear compartment is going to be a bit of a disaster, but I'll look into it some more. I may have to mount them somewhere else. I'm also going to need a three bank charger.

I'll probably try and find a used one.

[Lape0019]

I sandwiched three batteries back there when I upgraded. It can be done. My starting battery is a 24 but my trolling batteries are 27s. I could have gotten away with 29s I think but the 27s haven't given me an issue in 4 seasons.

 

As for a battery charger, I bought a used MK330. It was considerably heavier than the old one I took out. Because of that, I didn't mount the motor in the back of the boat. I could have but it would have added more weight back there. So, between removing the old one and installing a second battery back there, I figure I added 10lbs or so to the total weight.

 

I'm not saying you should do this, but just giving you options. When I bought my charger used, the guys had clips on it already so I didn't have to do anything.

[Lape0019]

I sandwiched three batteries back there when I upgraded. It can be done. My starting battery is a 24 but my trolling batteries are 27s. I could have gotten away with 29s I think but the 27s haven't given me an issue in 4 seasons.

 

As for a battery charger, I bought a used MK330. It was considerably heavier than the old one I took out. Because of that, I didn't mount the motor in the back of the boat. I could have but it would have added more weight back there. So, between removing the old one and installing a second battery back there, I figure I added 10lbs or so to the total weight.

 

I'm not saying you should do this, but just giving you options. When I bought my charger used, the guys had clips on it already so I didn't have to do anything.

[Old Ironmaker]

Nice ride, congrats. There are bad Trackers and good ones too. I hope you lucked out.

 

As far as props go, if you get a aluminum prop to give you a good hole shot it is at the sacrifice of top end speed and vise versa.

 

Go to iboats.com and go to the props discussion forum. If your answer is not there it doesn't exist. I find many guys really over think prop selection as they put to much science into it and there are so many factors like weight distribution and water conditions that make each and every boat unique.

 

I have to add hitting waves and wakes doing 40 something MPH will make an aluminium even glass boat leak faster then drilling a hole in it. Sorry to say especially a Tracker. They are not built robust enough to ride them hard and the shallow draught of any alum. Bass Boat even more so. Hold on Bubba, is it aluminum?

Edited July 26, 2016 by Old Ironmaker

[grimsbylander]

Go to iboats.com and go to the props discussion forum. If your answer is not there it doesn't exist.

 

Iboats.com is far from the only place to get good prop or set up selection.

 

Bass Trap, pm me and I'll send you info.

[Old Ironmaker]

I didn't say it's the only place, of course it isn't, it's a good one though.

[Bass Tard]

Lape, so your three bank charger, you just clip it in and out when you want to charge? I had no idea 10 or 20lbs would make such a difference on the boat. I should start weighing people!!

 

Ironmaker, I'm hoping this one doesn't wind up cracking, I'm really not out there in any kind of poor conditions, I'm the first guy to call it when the weather looks no good. Most likely, I'm in a channel, fishing boathouses.

[Lape0019]

Bass Trap,

 

Don't worry too much about that hull cracking. I read most of the reports that were out there before buying mine and it seemed to be more focused on the 175 and the Avalanche (this one was bad and I think a fellow member her had his sink). I've seen a few reports since then of cracks in the hull but no more than any other boat. Treat it right and drive within the conditions and you'll be fine.

 

And yes, my charger is actually mounted on the wall of my garage. I pull the boat into the bay and put the battery clips to the terminals and plug in the charger. Probably takes me 30 seconds more than if I had it in the hull already hooked up.

 

My main concern was that the boat already sits low in the back of the water and I didn't want to make it worse. Probably wouldn't make much of a difference but I figured why not as the charger was already setup for it.