sneak_e_pete Posted August 24, 2015 Report Posted August 24, 2015 Using the 1 ounce per 10ft of water rule, if I am fishing 20 ft with a 2 ounce and move to 30 ft, is there an easy way to add a 1 ounce that can be removed just as easily? Thanks in advance!
doubleheader Posted August 24, 2015 Report Posted August 24, 2015 (edited) Sometimes I'll add a rubber core weight just above the BB weight. If you're not familiar it's a cylindrical shaped weight with a slot and rubber extending from each end. Insert the wire into the slot and twist the rubber at each end. That said, IMHO the old 10'/oz rule of thumb is way over-baked. If you run 10 lb Power Pro, Fireline, or some other similar braid at 1 mph you can even use 1oz bouncers in the right circumstances. The correct amount of weight often depends on many factors, but perhaps most importantly it is based on how forgiving the lake bottom is where you'll be fishing. The greater the need to precisely dance just on the bottom the more weight one should use. http://www.cabelas.com/product/Fishing/Terminal-Tackle/Weights|/pc/104793480/c/104779980/sc/104685480/Cabelas-Rubber-Core-Sinkers/742782.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Fweights%2F_%2FN-1100373%2FNs-CATEGORY_SEQ_104685480 Edited August 24, 2015 by doubleheader
porkpie Posted August 24, 2015 Report Posted August 24, 2015 (edited) I remove the top arm of my bottom bouncers. I run just the length that has the weight. I then put a snap swivel through the top, and I hang my bouncers off my main line from a heavy plastic quick change clevis if I'm in snag infested waters, or if I'm running just weed and sand flats, I hook the swivel into the back eyelet of the swivel on my main line. This allows me to rig my rods with harnesses, and run them in the rod holders while travelling without having bouncers flopping around. Then it's just a matter of a quick snap, and I can put a bouncer on or change weight easily. I run dedicated rods though, that are always set up with a snap swivel with a clevis right behind it. I just use these rods for bouncing. Edited August 24, 2015 by porkpie
Fang Posted August 24, 2015 Report Posted August 24, 2015 I've been ditching my old spinnerbait style bottom bouncers and going to a quick change clevice. You can convert yours by just cutting off the extension arm. Main line from rod to a bearing swivel. In front of the bearing swivel put on a quick change clevice and a bead. There are heavier clevices for bottom bouncers out there. Tie in your leader length after the bearing swivel to your worm harness. I also tie my harnesses with smaller quick change blade clevice. I can go from a 1/2 once, #3 blade to a 3 ounce, #5 blade in less than a minute. way easier to store too! just type in quick change bottom, bouncers into google
BassMan11 Posted August 24, 2015 Report Posted August 24, 2015 Saw these on Uncut Angling and they look like an awesome solution. Northland Fishing Tackle: SLICK-STICK® BOTTOM BOUNCER They have these as well: Northland Fishing Tackle: ROCK-RUNNER® SLIP BOUNCERS
adempsey Posted August 24, 2015 Report Posted August 24, 2015 (edited) I picked up a bunch of Mustad Sea Booms that work well. Northland sells a special clevis with their Rock Runner pencil weights . It's basically a plastic quick change clevis with a slightly longer body. As said though, a standard quick change clevis should work just fine. Otherwise, I am sure you could just clip on another 1 oz. pencil weight to the bottom bouncer with a swivel or rubber band etc.. Edited August 24, 2015 by adempsey
misfish Posted August 24, 2015 Report Posted August 24, 2015 Theres always these. Been using them for quick change ups while jigging.
muddler Posted August 25, 2015 Report Posted August 25, 2015 I use different types of trolling sinkers. Banana, minnow and bullet types. All have a snap at the end of the sinker. Simply adding another sinker fir a quick fix will do it. I modify the banana type by adding a cross lock type snap. Once I find the right weight I'll retie using only one sinker of the correct size for the area. I carry 1/2, 1,2 and 3 oz sinkers. That way I can quickly customize the weights to fish any depth up to 30+ feet. I troll with 50 lb braided line and add a 6 ft (or so) 12lb l mono leader on a ball bearing swivel. Works like a charm. Muddler
dave524 Posted August 25, 2015 Report Posted August 25, 2015 Been using Gapen Baitwalkers for maybe 30 years
kickingfrog Posted August 25, 2015 Report Posted August 25, 2015 Another option, although crude, is to use a 3 way swivel and a dropper line with a snap. You can add or remove 1ounce bell sinkers as the depth changes. My preferred method is the quick release clips and the single arm weights mentioned above.
sneak_e_pete Posted August 25, 2015 Author Report Posted August 25, 2015 Great suggestions as always!!! Thanks!
big guy Posted August 27, 2015 Report Posted August 27, 2015 Canadian Tire carries these, been using them for 2 seasons, work great http://www.matzuo.com/bottombouncers video:
KraTToR Posted August 27, 2015 Report Posted August 27, 2015 Canadian Tire carries these, been using them for 2 seasons, work great http://www.matzuo.com/bottombouncers video: +1 ..... Been using these for about a year and they are the best thing going.
Ron Posted August 27, 2015 Report Posted August 27, 2015 1 oz to 10 ft rule is good. Start with 1 oz rigs and have 1 oz egg sinkers. Want more weight? slip on egg sinker, make a sharp bend behind sinker and then a needle nose jaw width, bend the other direction to set the wire back in place.
fishindevil Posted August 28, 2015 Report Posted August 28, 2015 I just use a cross lock swivel tied to my braid then I can change out my bouncer to heavier or lighter and no re tie involved !!!!! Been doing this for many many years
fishindevil Posted August 28, 2015 Report Posted August 28, 2015 Same with my dropshot weights a small snap or cross lock swivel and I can change out my weight in a second and helps for line twist too ... As I put a micro ballet swivel above on my braid where it joins to my floro
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