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Trailer tires


davey buoy

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Replaced a tire recently and had the same type put back on. The"Tire" guy after his 90 day stint lol, told me you should use trailer tires with a "T" .The tire I purchased was a P215 70R 14. The weight reading was within specs. Would like to know your thoughts on this .

What's the difference?.

Edited by davey buoy
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Replaced a tire recently and had the same type put back on. The"Tire" guy after his 90 day stint lol, told me you should use trailer tires with a "T" .The tire I purchased was a P215 70R 14. The weight reading was within specs. Would like to know your thoughts on this .

What's the difference?.

 

I think the difference comes in the PSI/Load the tires can handle. I bought a set of Calisle Radials (which are ST - Trailer rated). Load rating was 1500 pounds per tire, inflated to 50 PSI. When getting installed the Tire guy advised that on long road trips, I could up that PSI (to about 60).

 

I don't think a normal radial designed for a Car/Trunk can do that. But I always stand to be corrected.

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I think the difference comes in the PSI/Load the tires can handle. I bought a set of Calisle Radials (which are ST - Trailer rated). Load rating was 1500 pounds per tire, inflated to 50 PSI. When getting installed the Tire guy advised that on long road trips, I could up that PSI (to about 60).

 

I don't think a normal radial designed for a Car/Trunk can do that. But I always stand to be corrected.

 

Your right,mine are 35lbs versus 50lbs,but I push mine to 40lbs.They tell me that's Ok. Mine are recommended 1675lbs each not taking in the safety factor on the tire as well. I'll go with it as I have for 5 years and the original tires came with the boat. Who knows how old they were?.

Edited by davey buoy
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for what its worth i has p metric tires on my ranger trailer and it was all over the road, i put proper trailer tires on and it tracks much smoother down the road.

the tire has a max psi rating for a reason overinflating can be dangerous as the tire heats up it's internal pressure will go up and so does the heat and it can result in a sudden tire failure.

unless the guy behind the counter has an egineering degree the advice of placing pressure above the rec max pressure on the tire placard is not only dangerous and irresponsible itis a good way of getting around selling you the wrong tire

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Your right,mine are 35lbs versus 50lbs,but I push mine to 40lbs.They tell me that's Ok. Mine are recommended 1675lbs each not taking in the safety factor on the tire as well. I'll go with it as I have for 5 years and the original tires came with the boat. Who knows how old they were?.

 

Found this that might be of help:

 

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=219

 

Basic just is it also has to do with Sidewall construction. Trailer Tires have stiffer side walls (to prevent trailer sway), where car tires do not.

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Dito above. Trailer tires have sidewalls designed to prevent lateral flexing and helps prevent trailer sway. Trailer tires are for trailers, car tires are for cars, truck tires are for trucks.

 

I understand the logic. To me alignment,over weight rated tires,is all that is required IMO. Don't get me wrong safety first always. I really don't understand the same tire on a SUV,with lots of people in it pushing the weight ratio,swerving in and out of traffic,and me let's say pulling my boat in a straight line. Really how much of a difference is there?. :thumbsup_anim:Great discussion guys!!!

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Trailer tires can withstand higher sidewall heat and flex.

Your boat trailer has very limited suspension travel otherwise you would need shocks. The tire absorb the little bumps while leaf springs absorb the nasty ones.

Sidewall heat is also generated through sway. Not just swerving from lane to lane but any correction in the steering wheel will cause trailer sway. Even when Billy Bob is motoring down the center lane impeding traffic, the trailer is still going to sway a little. It's really exaggerated in a poorly set up trailer, overloaded trailer and tow vehicles with a long overhang.

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Don't forget boat trailers are fairly low center of gravity compared to say a 15' travel trailer. The wind isn't going to rock it nearly as much. I can say this, we had a 17 foot travel trailer with truck tires on it once as the tire guy said it would be fine and was well within the ewight rating. That son of a gun nearly killed us one year. Switched back to trailer tires and it was like night and day different.

 

I am not going to say its the same for everyone and every trailer and every situation, but I mean its really not a huge price difference. Its just one less thing I want to worry about.

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I'll pipe in here although I'm no expert. Firstly, I don't understand why Goodyear Marathons get bad comments. I've had them on 2 boat trailers, one I owned for 6 years, and this one is now 5 years old. I've never had any issues and they perform very, very well. Most problems stem from rubber deterioration caused by exposure to sun. All tires have this problem which is why one should cover tires when parked outside and for extended periods. All tires should be replaced at regular intervals regardless of tread wear. This is usually not a problem with cars because we wear them out before they deteriorate.

 

Prior to these 2 boats I had to replace belted tires on a prior one. Since I never liked the performance of belted tires I started looking into getting radials. In doing my research it was explained to me that trailer tires have stiffer walls than car tires because trailers, not only boat trailers, don't have suspensions that cars have. Cars have shock absorbers, torsion bars, coil springs. etc. that all dampen the shock of hitting potholes and such stuff. Cars can operate safely with softer tires because of these suspension aids. Softer tires are desirable in cars because they soften the ride and run quieter. Trailers, as we all know, only have leaf springs and these give very little dampening effects. When car tires are used on trailers they collapse too much when hitting holes and bumps thereby creating excessive wear and possibly damaging the walls, and thereby producing dangerous driving conditions. A damaged wall can explode and we all know what that means. Soooo, I get the proper tires for the application.....the last thing I want is being responsible for taking lives. :w00t:

 

 

My 2 cents and that's worth what you paid for it.

Edited by Gerry
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Just a heads up for you guys running automotive tires on your trailers.

I haven’t found a regulation as of yet that states a trailer rated tire must be used; I’m waiting for the MTO to reply to that.

But I have spoken to a number of insurance appraisers/adjusters and they have had claims denied; when there was an issue (blow out causing damage for example) with an automotive tire being on a trailer.

So even if it is not a legal requirement that a trailer tire is to be used; you may find that you have voided your insurance for any personal property damage, because of.

Don’t believe me; call your insurance company and I mean the company not your broker.

I know what you might be thinking, how can they deny a claim when (if?) it is not illegal to use them. I just finished suing my old insurance company because they denied a theft claim on my son’s car. They said that if they knew the vehicle had the “performance enhancements” installed, they would not have insured the vehicle. We won the case because it was a restored 79 Firebird that made it appealing to the thieves; not the nitrous system. Yes a nitrous system is legal to be installed on a street vehicle; as long as the bottle is turned off and cannot be turned on from the passenger’s compartment.

 

Dan.

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I've always been one to take the advice of people who manufacture items because I figure they recommend things for a reason. If the company that built my boat trailer tells me I should use trailer specific tires, then that's what I'm gonna use. If they wanted me to use automobile tires on my trailer, they would have told me so.

 

Or maybe I'm wrong :dunno:

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Well, what I know about trailers, tires, boats, cars and trucks, most people ban fit in one nostril. So, unless I have compelling evidence that a manufacturer or general consensus is leading me astray, I'll follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

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Lew, nothing like pulling around a $50,000 rig and cheaping out on tires for it, lol!!!

 

No cheaping out Bill, The question was knowing the difference. I've seen mixed answers,some say yah,some say nay.Just wanted to know every ones opinion.Great discussion non the less. I personally will use the tires i have,well beyond recommended weight. For the amount of time (every weekend) driving less than a hundred "k",I'm sure I'll be alright. Money grab for t tires?,I won't go there,but weight I'm within spec. The price is not a factor in my decision,as I here they are close. .Maybe next year I'll change them ?. Maybe.Thanks guys.

Oh by the way the trailer is a ez load trailer with coil springs,nice tow for sure.

Edited by davey buoy
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the difference one is made for trailers, and has greater sidewall strength and stiffness, and the other is built with ride quality, handling, performance, etc. more in mind.

 

because car tires work doesn't mean its the right decision. a manhole cover would work as well but it is not built for it.

 

the amount you are driving really makes no difference, driving less than a hundred k doesnt mean you won't encounter any hazards, or develop the heat or wear that causes tire failures. tires don't come rated for trips plus or minus 100k, they come rated for the task they are designed for, be it cars or trailers and for the loads applied.

 

side by side a 15" trailer tire is cheaper than a decent car tire. why use the wrong one? the answer is likely because they were on the trailer or got picked up cheap or something..

 

sure everyone has an opinion. mine is use trailer tires cause that's what they are for. another opinion is don't encourage a guy to use improper equipment.

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the difference one is made for trailers, and has greater sidewall strength and stiffness, and the other is built with ride quality, handling, performance, etc. more in mind.

 

because car tires work doesn't mean its the right decision. a manhole cover would work as well but it is not built for it.

 

the amount you are driving really makes no difference, driving less than a hundred k doesnt mean you won't encounter any hazards, or develop the heat or wear that causes tire failures. tires don't come rated for trips plus or minus 100k, they come rated for the task they are designed for, be it cars or trailers and for the loads applied.

 

side by side a 15" trailer tire is cheaper than a decent car tire. why use the wrong one? the answer is likely because they were on the trailer or got picked up cheap or something..

 

sure everyone has an opinion. mine is use trailer tires cause that's what they are for. another opinion is don't encourage a guy to use improper equipment.

Your opinion is well noted. Thanks for the feedback!!. Improper equipment,nah,I'm not sold on that yet.

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