scugpg Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 I noticed tonight that I should be looking at replacing my trailer bunks. They look to currently be 2x6 pressure treated wood with carpet (not sure if they are glued anywhere...staples on at least the sides). So I think I can measure and template the new bunks w/o any issue. So I have some questions: 1. What materials are best? (style of carpet, type of wood, staples or glue?) 2. Should carriage bolts work for this application; (drill out the hole so its below the wood line) or should I be looking at another option? I'm hoping to do this at a lake so I'm not stuck jacking the boat up off the trailer. Thanks in advance guys!
vance Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 I redid mine a few years ago and it is easy,the hardest part was removing the old carpet. 1 remove the bunks,replace the hardware using stainless steel screws,I just replaced what was there without any modifications. 2 went to BPS and bought bunk carpeting of the right length and using long stainless staples put it back on and tapped down all the staples with a hammer to make sure everyone of them was well seated and put bunks back on trailer. vance
Terry Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 when I did mine I measured and put carpet on the new wood at home then went to the lake put the boat in and installed the new bunks didn't take any time at all I used tacks to install the carpet on the bottom of the boards
Roy Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 Re-did mine as well. Here are a few tips....mostly common sense stuff. Like most, I didn't have the luxury of putting my boat on another trailer while I changed the bunks so I had to carefully measure the bunks for the new wood. Specifically the exact position of the carriage bolts. Once done, I went to the ramp, launched the boat and had the old bunks off and the new ones one within 5 minutes. 1- Do not use pressure treated wood. Find the straightest lumber you can. If there happens to be a slight "wow" in the wood, install the piece convex side up. 2- Bore countersunk holes in the exact locations needed to line up with the metal bunk supports on your trailer. Make the hole tight enough that the bolt doesn't spin. 3- Cut your bunk carpeting to size. Do not cover the underside of the bunk, leave it bare. I used 1" stainless staples with an air gun. 4- If you'll be installing the bunks at a ramp, make sure that you can easily remove the old ones. Bring everything you think you'll need for removing the old bunks and installing the new ones. It's a cakewalk. Good luck. Any other questions, feel free to PM me.
Billy Bob Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 Roy, why are you advising against pressure treated lumber ? ....replaced my non-pressure treated bunks years ago because they rotted in about 7 or 8 years....now the pressure treated lumber has been on their for almost 20 years with excellent results. But I did replace the carpeting on the bunks (same lumber) in 2008.
GBW Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 what ever you do, DON'T wrap the wood 100% around with the carpet. Why? it traps the water in and takes for ever to drain and dry thus causing the wood to rot much faster. keep the bottom open for drainage, after all, the boat doesn't touch there anyway.
HTHM Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 The reason to not use PT wood is that the chemicals contained in the treatment are corrosive, and can eat through a metal hull.
scugpg Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Posted July 9, 2011 That's great guys thanks! Would cedar be the best wood choice then? What about carpet would fairly thick outdoor carpet work?
misfish Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 Home depot has heavy outdoor carpet. Thats what I used.
Roy Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 Yeah Bob, I could have been less emphatic about it. For me, untreated wood is cheaper, and will last at least 10 years. Also, I kinda dislike having pressure treated wood anywhere near aluminum.
Roy Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 If you really want something nice, install "Glide-Ons" on top of the carpet. Google it.
scugpg Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Posted July 9, 2011 (edited) Roy I don't think they can be used on riveted boats. Will check out the depot for carpet So cedar should be best? Edited July 9, 2011 by scugog
Roy Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 Roy I don't think they can be used on riveted boats. Will check out the depot for carpet So cedar should be best? Cedar is too expensive, use pine. Lots of guys with riveted boats use Glide-Ons.
misfish Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 Good old spruce sealed and painted,covered with carpet, will be fine aswell. The thing is,you dont want the water to absorb into the wood.
DRIFTER_016 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 Good old spruce sealed and painted,covered with carpet, will be fine aswell. The thing is,you dont want the water to absorb into the wood. Yep, I used 2X6 spruce and sealed the wood with a couple of coats of varathane before carpeting. I also did mine the hard way. I raised the boat up off the trailer (using jacks and blocking) then just removed and reinstalled the bunks.
scugpg Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Posted July 9, 2011 I gave in and got some cedar today. I wasn't too bad but I figure it will last as long as I have the trailer. Home depot had the carpet and TSC had the stainless hardware at a reasonable price...if I don't get to it by Monday might go to a fastener place to get them cheaper. Good point I will stain the wood before I put it on!
John Bacon Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 If you really want something nice, install "Glide-Ons" on top of the carpet. Google it. If you are using "Glides-Ons" do you really need the carpet? When I replaced the bunks on my old trailer I just put Glide-Sliks on the wood and didn't bother with carpet.
Roy Posted July 10, 2011 Report Posted July 10, 2011 If you are using "Glides-Ons" do you really need the carpet? When I replaced the bunks on my old trailer I just put Glide-Sliks on the wood and didn't bother with carpet. No you don't need carpet except for esthetics.
TennesseeGuy Posted July 10, 2011 Report Posted July 10, 2011 No you don't need carpet except for esthetics. Best if carpet color matches drapes.
scugpg Posted July 10, 2011 Author Report Posted July 10, 2011 (edited) Crap taking the cedar back its been treated with stuff says don't use with aluminum.....pine it is Edited July 10, 2011 by scugog
dhickey Posted July 10, 2011 Report Posted July 10, 2011 Hmmmm ASH or IPE The problem with soft woods is that it expands and absorrbs water like a sponge. Ash or Ipe(ipae) will last a lifetime
scugpg Posted July 10, 2011 Author Report Posted July 10, 2011 Guys would hot dipped galvanized hardware work or should I go stainless. Want to make sure it won't react with wood or aluminum
DRIFTER_016 Posted July 10, 2011 Report Posted July 10, 2011 Guys would hot dipped galvanized hardware work or should I go stainless. Want to make sure it won't react with wood or aluminum Yes, galvanized is fine.
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