lew Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 (edited) I do all my own maintanance on my lawnmowers, snowblower, chainsaws, generator and outboard motor and have never had any problems with anything. Everything is 4 stroke and I run regular 87 octane gas in everything and also use Stabil and Seafoam. In my 150 Yamaha I use Marine Stabil. I was talking to a small engine repair guy the other day who has many years in the business and he tells me I'm doing it totally wrong. He says anything that will be stored for any length of time should have the gas completely drained out including carbs and only re-filled when their going to be used. He also says I should be running hi-octane gas in the small engines even though the manuals call for regular. The generator is a back-up for power to the house and I'd rather not have to be refilling it in total darkness one night in order to get it going. Does anybody know ABSOLUTELY FOR SURE if everything should be drained completely or is it OK to leave stabilized gas in them and also, do they require hi-octane ?? For what it's worth, I run the generator for about 20 minutes every month just to be sure it's always ready to go when needed. Sorry for the long post but this is something that everybody has a different opinion on and I'm just wondering if anybody knows FOR SURE. Edited January 30, 2011 by lew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowanjo Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I got this from another forum I am sure people will have different opinions but I think it all comes down to the changes in configurations in last five year before the 10% ethanlol junk. Fuel stabilizer may or may not be compatible, I think you should drain it just to be safe. Not all fuel stabilizers are compatible with ethanol fuels. Fuel storage and winterization has to be handled differently when using E-10 fuels. Manufacturers are warning that fuels need to be stabilized if un-used for as little as 2 weeks. Not all stabilizers are known to be E-10 compatible. Non-alcohol based fuel stabilizer additives are a must for ethanol fuel. Fuel bought at the pump has ethanol in it. Junk fuel. ethanlol is basically alcolhol which evaporates and causes other problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercman Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Hi Lew i will tell you just what i found,on the internet not my opinion.Most Manufacturers suggest that gas be removed if not used for extended periods.they also suggest stabilizer, so it may be confusing. They suggest a min octane of 87, i personally use 90 in my snowblower. Generator companies suggest you start them at least once a month for 15-20 minutes. Thats all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Shearer Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I was advised by the people that sell Stihl products to only use high test gas as it doesn't have ethanol in it. It seems the ethanol wreaks havoc on the carb. Of course these machines are 2 stroke. As for full or empty, I always store them empty. Never had a problem....yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish Farmer Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I put stabilizer in my full 26 gallon built-in tank, My smaller boat that has 5 gallon tanks, I empty in a Jerry can for the lawn mower and snow blower. 2 of my motors are Honda's and the other is a oil injected OMC Johnson, so all my gas has no oil mix. I haven't had a problem yet Lew, knock on wood. I have heard that there is plans of refineries putting 20 o/o ethanol in gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smally21 Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 i dont think there is an absolutely for sure answer lew. you can research or prove either side of the argument. i have also stored all my small engines and marine equipment full and never had problems. only recently started using stabilizer (maybe its all this bad gas fear mongering). checked some manuals of my equipment and most reccomend removal of fuel for long term storage. way back when i was told that a full tank of fuel could not build up condensation or moisture, and corrosion would not start in the full tank, which i agreee with. we have all kinds of generators and small engines at work and their maintenance plan is just weekly starting. i suppose if one was to follow the manufacturers reccomendations they would be doing the right thing, after all, they designed and built the item, their warranty and reputation is on the line. i also think just by asking the question, or having a system at all your paying more attention to your equipment that many. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lew Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Thanks for the replies boyz. The reason I asked here was because I couldn't find my manuals, but after telling my wife they were lost she handed them to me in about 3 seconds......If you lose something and can't find it after looking for a week, just ask your wife Anyways, the manuals all say to run stabilizer thru the engine, then completely drain the tank and carbs for storage. Thanks again guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I run "ethanol-free" premium gas from either Shell or Ultra-mar in all my small engines, 2-stroke & 4-stroke alike. My equipment has never run better. I empty all my fuel for storage on smaller items, but my boat, being a larger tank, I store full of stabilized premium for the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinker Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I store everything full. I try to always run shell V-power with no ethanol, but sometimes just can't get it where I am. I've never in my life had a problem with bad gas, or dirty carbs. Just lucky? I dunno........I use seafoam as a stabilizer, and I run it as a cleaner once every fall or spring with a heavier dose. I swear, its the seafoam that keeps everything ticking along like a swiss watch! My small two strokes gas cans are stabilized every time, with V-power. My boat I will run whatever I can get if the shell gas isn't available, but I don't worry about that as much, cause I usually burn thru a tank in a week or less, so its not sitting around. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUSTER Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I always drain the carbs, dirt bikes,gen set,outboard,chainsaws etc , fixed jelled carbs too many times, stabill or not. And high octane is money in the bank, buy quality fuel or repair and maintenance bill later. same cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Bob Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I have the same 1985 50hp Johnson VRO outboard and here is what I do every fall. When it looks like I might be using the boat for the last time I start adding regular Sta-Bil to my tanks....on my last time out I pull the gas line to the motor and run it out of gas but then keep restarting it while using choke/primer until it will no longer even try to start.....doing this adds more oil to the cylinders...when home I spray a fogging agent into both cylinders and turn the motor over by hand....then I drain and refill the lower unit with fresh gear lube....also grease all the zerk fittings and it's set for the winter. On ALL my 4 stroke engines like the lawn mower, snow blower and back up generator I always add Sta-Bil to the gas and run them DRY for the off season, except for the generator because that could be put into service at any time so I just keep fuel stabilizer in the tank at all times but come summer I drain that tank fuel and burn it my truck while adding fresh fuel and more Sta-bil. This has worked for MANY years for me and I'm not thinking of changing these practices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigfisherman Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Both boat and car are full of Shell 91 and stabilizer, learned the lesson the $$$ way 6 years ago I left sunoco 94 in the car for 9 months the fuel turned into varish and killed my Aeromotive external fuel pump luckily the injectors where ok.. never had an issue since switching to shell 91 and its stored even more often now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Man Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I run "ethanol-free" premium gas from either Shell or Ultra-mar in all my small engines, 2-stroke & 4-stroke alike. My equipment has never run better. I empty all my fuel for storage on smaller items, but my boat, being a larger tank, I store full of stabilized premium for the winter. Ditto for me. I empty everything except the boat. In the boat I always use Marine Grade Stabil and ethanol free premium in everything. The only exception to emptying some equipment would be if it has a steel fuel tank. Then I'd recommend filling it as full as you can get with stabilized gas. With 2 strokes, particularly in carborated engines, if you are burning E10 gas, you should increase your main jet size to the next larger size due to the extra O2 the burning ethanol produces. E10 can cause a lean fuel condition in 2 strokes and make them run hotter if they aren't re jetted for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flash67 Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I ONLY fill up with high octane Premium 91 at any gas station for my 98 SkiDoo Formula III 600 Triple. INCREDDDDDDDIBLE difference between 87 and 91 fuel. ALWAYS use premium on small engines, it DRASTICALLY helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBR Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I did business with Mercury Marine in Fon du Lac for years so when the E10 thing came up I called an engineer friend. He stores his outboards with full fuel tanks and a treatment of marine Stabil. uote name='lew' date='30 January 2011 - 08:10 AM' timestamp='1296393037' post='545393'] I do all my own maintanance on my lawnmowers, snowblower, chainsaws, generator and outboard motor and have never had any problems with anything. Everything is 4 stroke and I run regular 87 octane gas in everything and also use Stabil and Seafoam. In my 150 Yamaha I use Marine Stabil. I was talking to a small engine repair guy the other day who has many years in the business and he tells me I'm doing it totally wrong. He says anything that will be stored for any length of time should have the gas completely drained out including carbs and only re-filled when their going to be used. He also says I should be running hi-octane gas in the small engines even though the manuals call for regular. The generator is a back-up for power to the house and I'd rather not have to be refilling it in total darkness one night in order to get it going. Does anybody know ABSOLUTELY FOR SURE if everything should be drained completely or is it OK to leave stabilized gas in them and also, do they require hi-octane ?? For what it's worth, I run the generator for about 20 minutes every month just to be sure it's always ready to go when needed. Sorry for the long post but this is something that everybody has a different opinion on and I'm just wondering if anybody knows FOR SURE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimace Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I have always stored my boat and sled full. With Shell V-Power and conditioner. No problems. I too was wondering about this. Interesting. As for fuel, I was flexible with my boat as we had always used it so much. Now that I have a little boy running around father and I do not get out as much. The boat sits more, so I think I am going to be a bit more strict and run V-Power. The Sled gets nothing but V-power. Unless I am on the trails and have no choice. I do not mind that as the gas gets burned off that day. I hate ethanol. I stay away from conditioners that are not isopropyl alcohol based. Read the labels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handlebarz Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Not sure if I am right or wrong here but this is my way Boat I always run marine stabil and leave it full at end of season. 4 stroke gas mower sits out all year right now its covered in snow nothing added to gas and oil is just topped off has been running like a charm for 8 years when I bought it 10 years ago I had problems after changing the oil and spark plug and air filter the second set worked great and has been in there for the last 8 years heck I think the spark plug will break if I try and take it out LOL. Dad has the same mower and has trouble all year but he empties the gas in the fall and changes the plug oil and filter yearly go figure??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickingfrog Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Hey guys, I'm just sitting back and trying to learn form others on this one. I have some questions: Does it make a difference where the engine/fuel is stored? Heated/unheated garage. Would the climate make a difference? Coastal regions- wet, south-warm, north-much colder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCTFisher9120 Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Sorry I can't give feedback to you but when I pick up a little used outboard(8 or 9.9) I should be buying the better gas and not the regular stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattletrap2 Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Just a note on storing fuel. I had a '95 Plymouth mini van with about an 1/8th of a tank of regular unleaded in it. I had it sitting in my yard for almost 3 years. Any time i wanted to start it, it started and ran fine. I took it for a spin and it ran great. A few weeks ago, I sold it. I went and added $10.00 of regular unleaded to it and this didn't even bring it to 1/4 tank on the gauge. I took it in for an emission test and it passed with flying colours! Just how bad did this gas get in all that time? One argument I heard a long time ago regarding running everything dry for storage, was that any seals could dry out over the storage period. I have always just used Stabil stabilizer in my motors and left the fuel in them. It has worked for many, many years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danbouck Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 I have seen this conversation go back and forth on here a few times. Everyone's way is usually the right way when the debate is over. My boat motors gets marine stabil year round, everything else like lawnmowers etc get nothing and always start right up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canon Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 well, I may change to 90 for my snowblower after read this post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish_fishburn Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Cannon, you will see a huge difference by using hi-test in your snow blower. It will run better and have more power under a heavy load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canon Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Cannon, you will see a huge difference by using hi-test in your snow blower. It will run better and have more power under a heavy load. cant wait for a try! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanD Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Here’s my two cents on this; keep tanks full and sealed; carburetors empty. On injected model engines, just keep tanks full and sealed; fuel injection fuel rails are not vented like carbureted engines are. There is an in-line check valve that keeps a solid column for fuel between pump & injectors; the air cannot get at the fuel. Most (not all) toys & equipment will likely have a fuel shut off valve to the carb(s); if not install one. When you’re done using whatever, turn the fuel off; run the motor until stalled or manually drain the carb’s float bowl (if there’s a drain valve/screw) Older equipment used to always have some form of manual vent valve for the tanks; make sure they’re closed when storing. Most new(er) equipment have self venting caps or valves; replace it with a manual vent or have a second cap for storage purposes; that you’ve permanently sealed. A sealed tank will all but stop evaporation and moisture contamination of the fuel; with a proper dose of stabilizer will keep the fuel’s volatility up to a usable level. Just remember not to fill the tank to the brim; leave a bit of room for expansion and contraction; during temperature changes. It’s Mother Nature fiddling with the fuel that causes it to go “bad”; keep her away from it; as much as possible and it will have much longer shelf life. Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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