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Posted (edited)

Last year I came to the conclusion that if I wanted to succesfully fish the back lakes I needed a boat... as drifting the airplane and casting from a float bow is just not productive.. and at times a tad dangerous. Picked up a 12' square back Sportspal last fall and did a test flight with it strapped down tight before winter came. Found things flew the same, with the canoe having little or no effect on flight characteristics.

 

So I thought about it all winter. Most back lakes are so grown in I can't get to shore to unload.. reload a canoe and generally end up anchored in a small bay somewhere. There is no way to load and strap down a canoe when on the water... so when there's a will, there is usually a way. Got my last customer out of here on Wednesday and spent the last three days putting together, from my head, a canoe loader/unloader. I knew pretty much what and how I wanted to do it.. with some pivot brackets and telescopic tubes.

 

canoe1.jpg

 

The biggest hurdle was how to hook onto the canoe and after a trip to the "thinking" room, it dawned on me what to do..... and that's where the Purists might wanna stop viewing this thread and hit the back button!! lol Yep.. why not just cut holes for the tubes...

 

canoe2.jpg

 

Pivot bracets taking shape.

 

canoe3.jpg

 

First test flip before drilling any holes in the float decks or airplane.

 

canoe4.jpg

 

Flipped back down and knowing it's going to work.. time to commit!

 

canoe5.jpg

 

After a few flips and getting the pivot brackets bolted down. Time to positively locate the boat on the telescopic tubes so every flip is the same.

 

canoe6.jpg

 

Reinforced the cut outs in the canoe.

 

canoe7.jpg

 

Installed a pair of 6 rod holders under the seats. This way I can carry everything IN the boat that I need...ready to fish. Paddles, rods, two life jackets and safety kit in the bow. Just grab a tackle box and go fish..

 

canoe8.jpg

 

canoe9.jpg

 

All pivot and lock pins are aircraft mil spec quick pins and retainer chains so I don't drop any in the lake. These are also slick for your power ice augers lads! :)

 

canoea.jpg

 

canoeb.jpg

 

Note once it's flipped up.. the rod holders are upright = rods don't fall out!

 

canoec.jpg

 

You can't miss me... if you see me wave... wave real hard if it appears I haven't seen you when landing! :w00t::w00t::D

 

canoed.jpg

 

Hard to simulate being on the water... but it should actually be easier to load on the water than in the hangar. Done fishing and loaded in less than 2 1/2 minutes... boat in and fishing in less than 45 seconds. The telescopic tubes can also just stay attached to the canoe.. as the rear one is not in my way and if solo the front one can stay. If a passenger, then the front tube needs to be pulled out and left with the airplane.

Edited by irishfield
Posted

Haven't had it on the water yet.. so don't know how (un) stable it is. No fear... I always have a trout fishing vest on, with inflator rip cord when flying floats !! :D

Posted

Very nice set up. My only question would be, wouldn't it create less turbulance flying with the nose of the canoe at the front instead of the transom?

Posted (edited)
Very nice set up. My only question would be, wouldn't it create less turbulance flying with the nose of the canoe at the front instead of the transom?

 

No... it actually causes less turbulence in reverse. Same reason streamline strut has the blunt/wide end forward.. tapered trailing. The boat in this direction will actually create lift as well.. same as a wing shape. Even if none of those did anything.. the flat front is more predictable than what a tapered end will do in wind gusts... prop wash etc.. and besides that... need the tapered end at the back to clear water rudder cables! lol

Edited by irishfield
Posted (edited)
Great bit of inventiveness there.

 

THANKS....I'd patent it bigugli.. but I already have a drawer full of those useless documents ! :wallbash:

Edited by irishfield
Posted (edited)
Very nice set up. My only question would be, wouldn't it create less turbulance flying with the nose of the canoe at the front instead of the transom?
Edited by Mike the Pike
Posted

So that's why your post count has remained the same in the last little while :lol:

 

 

Very neat idea Wayne. That will be a sight to behold in the sky :o:clapping:

 

Joey

Posted

I go across there all the time Dan. Not an issue with lots to hold onto, but I always tend to bump my head and why I'm going bald. Other option is to just climb up the keel strips on the canoe and in the passenger door.

Posted

Thats Awesome Wayne!!! Great idea Ill be your first back lakes adventure clientLOL , Ive always wanted to do a fly in fishing adventure. Nice to see you kept yourself busy during the snowy season....See you soon at Lakair

Posted

Okay, time for the proverbial monkey wrench <_< , everything is good and stable on terra firma, but I imagine that the plane bobs up and down a tiny bit and the canoe empty will ride at a certain level and when you get in, (not saying yer a lard butt) but then the canoe goes down a bit, will the square holes for the rack accomodate that much movement up and down? f it was just holes on one side probably wouldn't matter but the rack bars go right through to the other side, catch my drift.

Posted
I'm gonna see if Solopaddler want's me to do his new Langford next..... :o:D

 

 

Don't scratch it Wayne, he cringed anytime we rubbed up against the rocks :) :)

Posted (edited)
Okay, time for the proverbial monkey wrench <_< , everything is good and stable on terra firma, but I imagine that the plane bobs up and down a tiny bit and the canoe empty will ride at a certain level and when you get in, (not saying yer a lard butt) but then the canoe goes down a bit, will the square holes for the rack accomodate that much movement up and down? f it was just holes on one side probably wouldn't matter but the rack bars go right through to the other side, catch my drift.

 

Once I get my fat ass out of the ganoe the boat will actually sit a bit higher.. or should I say the attach tubes will be a bit higher than the pivot attach brackets on the float. Push down on the tube to tip the canoe a bit and the pins (should) pop right in.. easier than with it sitting on jack stands. :rolleyes: The canoe isn't that rigid either... it 's made of such light alum that it twists end to end pretty easily.

 

I'll find out late next week, hopefully, how it works on the water..

Edited by irishfield
Posted

Great thinking there Wayner......I can see the dropping time getting faster with practice and the recovery time getting longer with a little breeze and wave action,but I'm sure you'll master it with practice too....TC and Tight lines all.....Chuck....

Posted
No... it actually causes less turbulence in reverse. Same reason streamline strut has the blunt/wide end forward.. tapered trailing. The boat in this direction will actually create lift as well.. same as a wing shape. Even if none of those did anything.. the flat front is more predictable than what a tapered end will do in wind gusts... prop wash etc.. and besides that... need the tapered end at the back to clear water rudder cables! lol

I had the same question Wayne and will bow to your expertise on the answer, but am still dubious. You might also want to go with back up rods to test those holders the first time (I worry about vibrations and winds sending them soaring).

I am envious of the ingenuity and the ability, as well as the opportunity, to create things such as this. You are like the kid in the candy store, that can also make new candy. And your hangar looks like the ultimate man cave.

Good on ya!

Jim

Posted
I had the same question Wayne and will bow to your expertise on the answer, but am still dubious. You might also want to go with back up rods to test those holders the first time (I worry about vibrations and winds sending them soaring).

I am envious of the ingenuity and the ability, as well as the opportunity, to create things such as this. You are like the kid in the candy store, that can also make new candy. And your hangar looks like the ultimate man cave.

Good on ya!

Jim

 

Jim.. I had half a thought to throw a strap around the front as well...but considering the 3/8" quick pins have about a 9 ton shear rating x 2 pins on each bar... compared to my float attachment itself that is only a single 5/16 bolt top and bottom of each strut, I think she'll be fine. Pivot plates have double failure built in and the canoe can't move once pegged. It's definitely stronger than when I flew it with CTC ratchet straps on it! :o

 

For peace of mine.. the front bow rope of the float will get tied to the canoes, plastic, handles... :D

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