ch312

what would you like help with? i'm sure OFC could help you out

12 volt auto inverters are all different and each size is rated to power different items. for instance, a small inverto will do nothing more than charge a cell phone while the next size up may power your aerator and the larger ones will power a microwave and TV. i think they're rated by watts so you'd need to know how many watts your aerator draws and then by the suitable invertor. or buy a 12 volt aerator or rig up a mini board with resistors to lower the 12 volts down to whatever voltage is required for the frabill aerator. then for less than $10 or so you could power your normally battery powered aerator with the 12 volt system on the boat...

for the brake controller only it shouldn't take very long at all and anyone who can match colors can do it. my truck came with a tow package and already had the 4 pin and 7 pin installed. it took about 10 minutes to wire and mount the brake controller in the RV dealers parking lot... installing the 7 pin yourself should take an hour or so, maybe two at the most. the only "hard" part might be running the two wires for constant power (to turn on lights in a trailer and such) and for the brakes.

ah yes, you mean the type of people who demanded that the spring bear hunt be cancelled which has resulted in far more nuisance bears and close encounters which in turn means more problem bears than ever are being shot before deadly encounters occur? hunting is a valuable means of wildlife management. i just wish those who have never stepped foot outside the city limits could understand this. it's too bad he didn't have a firearm to deal with the problem animal before it killed his dog and endangered the mans life.

Due to work and a newborn, today was my first time out this season to pick some fiddle heads and was a bit discouraged when I showed up to the spot i've been picking from for years to see some plants that were already 20" high and tons of stubs remaining from other pickers. After wandering for 10-15 minutes I finally located a small patch near a downed tree that were just sprouting and prime for picking. After pondering for a minute I decided to check every spot I could find in the area on the north side of downed trees, heavy brush, etc and ended up with just over 3 lbs in about 45 minutes. Apparently the plants in shaded areas are way behind those in sunny areas and by the looks of thing's i'll be able to go picking again in a few days as I saw many that are still buried in the "knobs" and about to sprout. Get out there before it's game over until next spring

The wound isn't too old as the majority of flesh isn't dried up or healed yet and that black is either dirt or infection. Also, rabbits are well known for being very easy animals to kill which any hunter (both human and animal) would agree with. Squirrels and birds have a stronger will to live than most rabbits. As for your buddy prolonging the suffering of those 3 rabbits for no reason other than to increase meat production, that's borderline animal abuse and very selfish on his part. Are you sure it was coons that chewed their feet and not the mesh that was too large on the floor that was tearing up their feet? It just doesn't sound right that the rabbits would sit still long enough while a coon chewed on their feet? I raised and slaughtered rabbits for two years. Isn't it nice supplying your family with one of the healthiest meats out there at a lower cost than raising chickens? Any update on this little guy?

for trout or panfish i like red wigglers that breed like crazy in the compost bin. it's nice flipping over a melon rind and having hundreds of worms clumped together in a ball just waiting to be bait... to catch earthworms try to search at the bottom of hills when there is dew on the grass or after a rain. a red balloon stretched over your flashlight or the red material from "EXIT" signs works great.

x3 odds are it'll get infected and he'll suffer for a while before it kills him. if not, he'll be an easy meal for whatever predator decides to eat him as rabbits rely on a speedy escape if sitting still/camouflage doesn't work. sometimes finishing the job is better for the animal...

from an erie trib last fall... trolling on lake erie last spring for pike and this brute nailed a williams wabler... and finally, a double header from bronte last fall

what was wrong with yours? it seems like the only reason you'd have a leak is if a new seal is needed or there's a hole/leak in the drain line or pump?

very well said. it's sad that anyone would have any sympathy for whoever did this. the perpetrator deserves to be dragged behind a truck or simply tossed into a room with the family members of the victims for true justice to be served. it's no wonder criminals in canada are treated so well with all these bleeding hearts around...

hopefully someone has an answer... do hunters need to be concerned about ingesting contaminants while eating waterfowl?

http://www.flmnh.ufl.edu/fish/Gallery/Descript/Bowfin/Bowfin.html The bowfin is commonly known as cottonfish in some parts, due to the fact that when they are improperly cooked or eaten cold, the flesh is said to ball up in one's mouth like cotton. Food critics have given "Cajun caviar," a delicacy made from the eggs of bowfin, rave reviews. Reviews regarding the flesh of the bowfin range from "soft and pasty" to "passably palatable, while being one of the best of all smoked fishes". The bowfin is commonly used as laboratory test animal because of its status as a "living fossil." It is easy to maintain and has interesting behavioral and physiological temperaments. Young bowfin may be kept in an aquarium, however they may feed on smaller fish. i've never heard of smoked bowfin. who's going to be the OFC guinea pig?

^^^^^^^ what he said...

LOL @ some of these safety nazi replies. it's a deck the man was taking down, not the whole friggin house. considering the height and how rotted the deck was i'd say that bringing it to the ground to rip it apart was far safer and faster than dismantling it piece by piece as it stood. rigging up a fall arrest system to dismantle it or having a crane come in to lower the deck to the ground would be safer, neither method is practical for this. i guess i was the only one that was excited to see that your plan worked out? did you remove the lags from the ledger before doing this or did the contractor skip that part?

my thoughts exactly...

why anyone in ontario would limit themselves to one species with such a wide variety available is beyond me we're extremely lucky to live in a region with so many different water bodies and species of fish. take advantage of it!

talk about a bad case of having "eyes bigger than your belly"! minnows in my tank often take pieces of food that are too large and choke themselves out. there can be a ton of smaller pieces floating around that are perfect for them, yet they insist on being greedy. i guess bass are the same as anyone who has cast some muskie size baits in bass waters may know.

i've always wanted to see what a fish centered in a seamless stamped driveway with ashlar slate borders would look like... DO IT!

concrete is THE way to go and if done properly it will last much longer than any asphalt or interlock driveway. but, i'm slightly biased as i've been doing concrete work for almost 10 years now completing jobs such as garden curbing, foundations, massive driveways, pools, 50k sq/ft floors, high rise balconies, parking garages, etc. here are some price ranges for my area to give you an idea of what a contractor might charge to complete the entire job from start to finish: -concrete cost per meter $170+ -broomed finish $6.50+ -swirl finish $7+ -seamless stamped (looks like a large slab of stone) $8+ -patterned stamped like twocoda's (ashlar slate?) $9+ -exposed aggregate $11+ adding color to the concrete, which you can do for both broom and stamped finishes, will add $1-2 per sq/ft depending on the brand and type of colorant used. as for the concrete to be used, i always go with at least 32 mpa with 6% air for exterior horizontal concrete. the air is needed for the freeze/thaw cycles we have in this climate and the mpa refers to the strength. higher mpa is slightly more difficult to finish and costs a couple bucks more, but insist that it's used. some contractors will try to use 25-28 mpa, the same strength that's used in basements. the base is the most important part of the job so be sure to check your soil type to find out how much of what type of aggregate will be needed. a 4" slab poured on a properly prepared base should have no heaving or cracking while an 8" slab poured on a poor base will likely crack and heave within the first couple years. considering how cheap steel ($9 per 20ft length) and concrete ($170+ per meter) actually is, insist on a 5" slab with 10m bar at 16" centers. on a standard double car driveway that's 20 x 25, adding an extra inch of concrete and the bar will add about $600 to the cost which is very cheap insurance. steel bar in the concrete will ensure each panel (each square formed when you make crack control cuts) stays flush with the adjacent panel if any heaving does occur. it also makes it much stronger as concrete has compression strength, but nearly zero tensile. adding the steel provides the tensile strength that concrete lacks. insist that whoever pours your driveway does NOT use water to finish the slab and uses a jitterbug instead. adding water to the surface to make finishing easier is basically watering down the top layer of concrete which makes it much weaker. a jitterbug is a mesh roller type tool that forces the stones near the surface to be pushed down into the concrete allowing for the entire surface to be uniform for the best possible finish. not only that, but it also prevents "popping" of the surface stones by ensuring there is an even layer of "cream" over the entire surface. if you've ever seen a driveway or sidewalk with little divots and a visible stone in each divot, you've seen the result of a lazy contractor. pics, stamped concrete is not slippery as long as "non slip" or "anti slip" sealer is used. sealer should be reapplied every year or two depending on how much vehicle and foot traffic you have.

so you're saying it's okay to target spawning fish as long as someone is making money off of it? this mentality of river salmon being garbage fish and no good for nothing other than roe is what got us here in the first place. those who fish in lakes for the same fish also contribute huge amounts of money to the government and local economy. if there were a complete ban on roe, those people would have no reason to strip 50-75 fish at a time because there would be no market for the roe they're taking. there would be zero point in stripping eggs if nobody was going to buy them... again, the mentality that river salmon are garbage fish has evolved over the years and it's not getting better. if they were left alone in rivers and were permitted to reproduce, would that not eliminate the need to stock them in the first place? i often wonder what the salmon and trout fisheries would be like across ontario if spawning fish were completely off limits. isn't it odd that the species who are specifically targeted during their spawning migrations are the main ones who need stocking to keep fish able populations?

i'm not arguing and i fully respect your opinion as it's definitely a different strokes for different folks type thing. i've been lucky enough to have ridden with literally hundreds of riders and ATV's over the last few years and it's very clear that those who ride big bores usually have a more enjoyable day with much less rider fatigue after the 50km+ runs we often go on. using a 700 and 450 as an example, the 700 will top out at 100 km/h while the 450 will top out at 80 km/h. so, if you're cruising through fields or on the ice at 75 km/h the 450 will pretty much be "red lining" which greatly increases your chances of overheating while the 700 will be cruising along. i see it time and time again where we're forced to stop and wait for the smaller machines to cool down. as for the obstacles, i wasn't really referring to insane obstacles. even a 12" log or vertical creek bank is much easier to get over with that extra snap of power to get the front wheels over and to give you an extra pop of momentum to get the rears up and over. many small bores lack power and feel sluggish in doing so. this often results in the rider becoming very fatigued by the end of the day as the small bores often require much more body english to maneuver. it's common for the small bores to be in 4x4 the majority of the time when navigating tricky terrain (which also increases fatigue if you don't have EPS) while the big bores are still in 2 wheel drive. my point is too many people buy small machines and it ends up costing them thousands by the time they sell the first machine to upgrade to what they should have got in the first place. turning a 1000 into a 500 is as simple as turning a screw or using a programmer while turning a 500 into a 1000 means buying a new machine and losing a ton of cash. people who ATV almost always upgrade, not downsize you're right, a 500 is definitely capable of doing anything a big bore can. but, riding is so much easier and much less fatiguing when you have more horses available. much like outboards on boats, most people opt for the more powerful motor right off the hop rather than starting with a small motor and upgrading later as life is easier and cheaper buying the right tool the first time.

the extra power is welcome when you're trying to turn some heavy and aggressive 27" or larger tires through peanut butter mud. i've seen quite a few small bores simply bog down before going anywhere in the really thick stuff where the big bores needed the extra horses to get the tires spinning. sure you can get into clutching, but the small bores lose too much top end speed if you go that route. the extra power also comes in handy when you're trying to get the front end up in a hurry, such as onto large logs, rocks, creek banks, etc. i see it time and time again where riding is just overall easier with that extra snap of power you have available. a lot of 500's and lower will also have lower top end speed compared to the 700's and such meaning the small bores are run at full throttle just screaming when the big bores are only at 3/4 throttle and cruising even though they're both going the same speed. this often means waiting for the small bores to cool down after overheating... that said,not too many people downsize after owning a big bore. but, many people waste money buying a smaller ATV when they should have just got the only one they'd ever need the first time. limiting the power until you're ready is as simple as adjusting the throttle or you can even use a programmer and adjust it however you'd like. i've just personally seen too many people buy small machines thinking they'll be okay only to lose a couple grand when the upgrade a year later...

well, i sure wouldn't be trapping dead cats setting live traps for cats is 100% legal, but using kill traps would likely end up costing you a nice chunk of change and possibly jail time if caught. i took it upon myself to make sure that doing so was legal before buying a trap. although they'd never go on record saying this, the local SPCA fully supports the trapping and extermination of stray/feral cats as they spread disease, reproduce like crazy, and kill millions of small game and birds yearly. i believe they keep them for a maximum of one week before disposing of them? i also believe it costs $50 or more for the owners to get their cats back from the SPCA. although it may not be best for making friends, you could technically set the trap in the middle of your yard where it's visible to your neighbors and they can't do anything about it if their cat wanders into your trap. people really need to stop being so ignorant and learn the facts about the harm house cats cause when they roam free. some negatives of cats roaming free: -crap makes a mess in gardens and spreads disease -urinating/spraying smells horrible and also spreads disease -get into garbage more than coons around here -fight and cause damage to cats and small dogs who are leashed -kill millions of small game and song birds yearly for fun, not to eat -have even caused vehicle accidents due to people trying to avoid them -uncontrolled reproduction ensures this gets worse every year the only positive for cats roaming off their property is less crap to scoop out of the litter box, if they even own one.

call me crazy, but i honestly believe basic medical training and some sort accident scene control should be part of obtaining a drivers license. even if you're not willing to physically help an accident victim, at least you'd be able to help control the scene and help prevent further damage to the victims. it could also help you save yourself or passengers in your own vehicle one day. i'd say the majority of drivers are totally clueless when it comes to an accident and helping others. how about first aid kits and some minor safety gear? it's mandatory in a boat and i dont think any of us have an issue with that. why not apply the same to passenger vehicles?