Fisherman

No, can't you feel one leg longer than the other? About $35 for trailer plate plus tax on the sale unless you bamboozle the tax man and tell him you built it. No charge for transfer of boat registration. Safety kit, anchor or oars, $ 0-50, FLOATING 15M(50') with throwing device $10, PFD's for all passengers $$$$. Probably around $100. Boat licence, don't know if there's any cost involved.

Did you have a cape & sandals and a spear? Do you know Gomer Pyle?

$350, are you serious? That's robbery!. There was a similar thread about 2-3 weeks ago that covered it all.

HA, ha, $500.

25 years with the MP's, another 10 years as a civvy dispatcher for them, and now another year and a half at Range Control keeping the troops safe on the ranges and training areas.

First pic, left side, ARGO.

Ya, the realignment part is probably the most frustrating, something I forgot, some lower units slide off without a hitch, don't drop it!

Not that hard at all. Remove engine cover, look where the shift lever goes into the side of the casing, move the shift lever up and down, F-N-R and see where the linkage is held together with a short pin and cotter pin. Remove cotter pin, pull out the small pin. Tilt motor up, remove the four bolts under the cavitation plate. Now with a bit of luck, the lower unit should slide down, it may be persuaded with a rubber hammer. Once the lower unit is off, you'll see two long shafts, where they enter the lower unit, theres a cover with 2-3 small bolts, remove the, lift off the cover and the impeller is underneath. STOP, look which way it's in there, some have a little flat spot on the shaft. Get out the new impeller, apply a bit of vaseline to the wings or fingers and a bit inside the housing, replace the impeller, replace cover, replace bolts. Now at the top of the splined shaft, clean it with a steel brush, apply anti seize. Now comes the fun part. When you slide the lower unit back in, you must aline the shifter rod, the splined shaft and the tube that goes up for the water cooling for the engine. Replace lower unit bolts. Replace the small rod and cotter pin for the shift linkage. Now if all was lined up correctly, place the shifter in F or R, slowly pull the motor over, the prop should turn either forward or back, In N, it should free spin. Get out your big garbage can, fill with enough water to get about 1/2 way up the leg of the motor and give it a start, water should start peeing out within a couple seconds. Done. Good luck. Bolts are metric, most likely 12mm, the impellor cover bolts might be 7-8mm.

Helmet..what for, there's nothing between their ears worth saving. And they wonder why they get ragged on when they crash and burn with no helmet. Low end of the gene pool.

Docks 6 and 7 eh, I thought they were alphabetically posted.

That's not quite how transceivers work, you can only amplify signals sooo much and when you start out with a weak transmitted signal, you may as well be using a cooked noodle for an antenna. A poopy radio with a great antenna is far far better than the other way around. One thing to note, all radios have to meet minumim specs, check the fine print on the box where they are made, then you know what to buy.

Go to the local Township where the land is located, they have all the lists.

What muddler said, a few moments and a stamp or click of the mouse and having copies saves a lot of headaches down the road. Remember, "No tikey, no laundry", well, "No proof, no warranty" seems to ring a pretty good bell.

You better explain that a bit more...please enlighten me on how you would hook "it"(the bowl?) up to a fuel line and check "what" fuel level.

Moms are definitely precious, nice pics, remember when mine "camped out" with my little poopers about 20 years ago on her patio. Something they never forget.

Hard to send you somewhere when it's not shown on your avatar, but, you can also try Durham radio in Whitby/Oshawa. Never mind the little 3' antennas, much like womens moaning, "size and quality does matter" when it comes to antennas.

Two things I got on my present one, natural gas, no more humpin tanks around and, heavy cast iron grills, no going back to the porcelain, they crack and rust after a year or two

Great point Rick, keep my card right behind my DL.

Some swine musta lied to me then, then again I think some will do that cause they have a knot in their pants with Lou.

160F, if it's real cold out and you can't seem to get the temperature up, use the box it came in to cover it...betcha didn't save the box, eh. Leave a couple of small holes at the top to let out the vapour.

Put the site in your fav's. http://cbfb.proboards100.com/index.cgi?boa...amp;thread=3670

Apple and alder chips, fillet fish, sprinkle with coarse salt, let sit for 8 hours,(overnight), rinse off, place on racks and smoke for 8 hours. Some add the whole spicerack and booze, to me that's not smoked fish.

My wheel nuts require more torque than your motor can ever make 600lb/ft stock and gets 18/23 mpg.

It's on a Ford "Feeble Offering Roaring Dimly" and a Tornado, hahahahah Get a little closer to the snowbank, maybe you can blow some away.