Fisherman

Let us know how it turns out when you get a new module, might help the next guy out.

And don't forget to tie the boat down securely, front and rear bumper, don't want any 12 foot missles going down the highway...

Take those bearing numbers you have and go to Canada Bearing or any other bearing shop, they will cross ref them and get you rolling.

It's your motor, use it and abuse like as you wish, liken it to any other motor, do you drive a cold motor out of the stops like that..

1. That white ground wire is needed for the module system..suspicion..module is bad. 2. Disconnecting the green, disables the right trailer brake/signal..normal. 3. Green wire is now receiving power from the park light wire..normal. 4. Removing the ground, it should go out, but most likely grounding back through one of the other lights. 5. Not knowing the inner workings of the module, I still don't think the white wire(Jeep side) should spark. How about trying this test: If you have a spare 12 volt battery, check each trailer light individually. On the 4 Flat trailer connector, 12V - to the white, 12 + to the green, yellow and brown, one at a time. See that each light functions brightly, green and yellow will be bright, brown(park) will be a bit more dim, it's normal. If you have extra clearance lamps(yellow at front, red at rear middle) they will also light with the brown. The yellow and green are stop/signal but of course won't flash, there's no flasher in this test. If these all work, no exceptions, then the trailer is okay. Now take a 12V test light or a voltmeter set to 12V DC or higher. Black probe to the white ground tip on the Jeep 4 flat plug, red probe to the brown, should get +12(maybe a bit higher), red probe to yellow, have someone step on brake pedal, +12, do same for green, +12V. Now turn on your left signal on the jeep, ignition on, again check both the yellow and green wires, the test light will flash or your voltmeter will jump to +12V intermittent. Let us know. I'm still leaning a bit to a bad module. Brain poot..one more thing, with the Jeep ignition off, test for +12V between the white and green at the 4 flat Jeep plug. You should not be getting anything.

It shows the Yama 15's with optional 6 amp charger, can't see why a dealer couldn't order it. You would or may have to remove the flywheel to get at the wiring and add the diode pack to get 12V DC and a charging plug. Is there a hole or cutout where the optional plug would go on your motor? I know I can get replacement ones for my little Honda, had to replace a broken charge plug, took a couple days to order the part.

Okay, how about the fuel ine into the tank, kinked maybe?, how about crud at the fuel line intake inside the tank, or weak fuel pump on the motor. The motor doesn't need as much power in reverse to run the prop, that's why it runs okay in reverse. It's jut fuel starvation, possibly the float needle(s) are stuck. Is it a multiple carb? Did he set them up properly to get equal flow.

Read the first post again and check the link, it's a module that goes in series with the vehicle/trailer wiring. 12V power must be supplied from the battery to activate the module so that the computer for the vehicle lighting doesn't sense added power draw and shut down.

If you have followed the instructions and both trailers are doing that, then it may be a bad ground from trailer to jeep or possibly the black box is defective. Don't use the trailer hitch as a ground(not questioning your ability here), some try to do it with bad results. For testing, run a real ground wire from the base mounting bolts on one of the trailer lights to a clean ground point on the jeep, (not the hitch), maybe one of the screws for the light assembly.

For starters, there is only a very small listing of battery manufacturers, Johnson, Interstate, Exide and maybe one or two others, most batteries are "rebrands", big plastic sticker on the side. You want the "best" battery, either Trojan or Oddessy. Lots of dollars with a good warranty. You can get a resonably priced Deep cycle no name from Total Battery for about 1/2 of what you'll pay for the above kind. Go minimum with a group 27DC or better is a group 31DC. I just picked up a 27 DC for $79. Cheaper than Costco, Wmart, or CTC.

You may want to check at Comprop, they are plastic composite, maybe they have a model for you. If I rememeber corrrectly, Cabelas has props with replaceable blades, also composite.

Apologies sent to Musky and Specks, but I still feel the way it's written in the exceptions to Zone 16 at that river, leaves a bit open to interpretation.

Okay, how about someone that's close to that area call the local MNR office, get an interpretation and the name of the person/CO so that it's in stone. Then nobody wil find out the hard way.

More popcorn eh..

Well then you had better sign up for comprehension classes, he read it, I read it and it says artificial lures, only ONE SINGLE BARBLESS HOOK. It's in the exceptions section

Where's the "Who cares" option.

If you have a motor stand you can do twit there or leave the motor on the back of the boat. Take off the motor cover, put it in reverse. Look at your FNR shifter, follow the linkage inside to where it goes down, there is a U shaped clip with a small pin and cotter pin, with small fingers remove cotter pin and linkage pin. Tilt motor up and look under the cavitation plate above prop, there should be 5 bolts under the cavitation plate, 8mm I think, remove them. The whole lower unit will slide out, you mayneed a bit of persuasion, don't drop it. Once out, remove the 4-5 small bolts on top of the impellor housing, wiggle it loose, remove it, see the 6 fingered rubber wheel, pay attention which way the fingers curl, remove it. Check and see there's no othere debris in there like chunks of rubber from the old impellor. You can blow up the tube that goes up the motor leg to see if there's any other obstructions. Replace impellor and other parts, don't tighten like a gorilla it's not heavy metal. Slide the lower unit back in making sure to line up the water pump outlet with the tube beside the driveshaft, line up the shifter linkage, insert linkage pin/cotter pin. Check and see that FNR works. Do a test run in a garbage can with clean water, never, never, never start or attempt to start the motor without the water pump impellor submerged in water or using "ear muffs" which I don't think work on the smaller Hondas. Good luck.

Unfortunately a lot of the Honda parts are propriatary, only fit Honda and I haven't found aftermarket parts except for gas and oil filters. You should be able to get the sparkplugs at Can Tire, NGK DR5HS with a .026"/.06mm gap. If I remember correctly, I think I paid about $30 or so for the impellor on the water pump, a little expensive but no choice on that part. The carb overhaul kit is roughly the same price. Replacing the water pump impellor is not hard, I've done a few differend brands, the Honda is very easy. I can give you the step by step if you wish, I had it posted before, I'll see if I can find it for you.

Lack of cooling could be as simple as a plugged hose by a ciouple of spiders or a broken impellor in the water pump, not difficult to fix, about 20 minutes and $30. The motor running and shutting off could be a as simple as a bad set of plugs heat up and then won't fire (but I've got my doubts on that one). Carb could have a sticky float needle that won't let enough gas into the bowl. Not a hard job either, about 30 minutes and twisted fingers. Where are you located?

Three newborns and a bar of gold. Maybe $500+

Things you get to see when you're not in a rush

A lot of the newer mowers no longer have adjustable carbs other than the idle set speed screw. Most likely the problem is called put it away in the fall, forgetaboutit disease, then come spring it's expected to run like new. Either get the carb interior cleaned by someone who knows how, add a good shot of Seafoam to the gas and let it run a while. It removes the gum and varnish from the interior of the carb. Sparaying carb cleaner down the throat is mostly a complete wate of time and carb cleaner.

After the info that Steel'n'esox gave, 1500 blow ups for one year, I really wouldn't call that reliable. Not saying all Evinrudes are bad, but maybe some package deals come with headaches, that's why I said maybe take a look at others. I personally wouldn't trust Mercs either but that's just my lousy experience with them. I had an 84 Honda, never a problem with it, sold it in '96 and now have a 25 Honda, no problems. My youngest just picked up an early 90's Honda this year, runs like a top. I've seen too much cussin and swearing at the dock and on the water with others, but that's just one persons thoughts. Seems like the Nissans and Suzuki O/B's are okay too. Wish you luck with whatever brand you get.

A 2.5HP can't weigh that much however, I would remove it for trailering just to be safe and keep it from flopping around. With the 2.5, you have a back up motor just in case the other fails you, trolling plates don't do too much for mobility.

Just a Q, it appears you are "zeroing" in on bad motors, why not look at different brands.