Working on ye olde boat

[DRIFTER_016]

45 minutes ago, BillM said:

Good job Dave!  Make sure to seal that thing up tighter then a ducks ass

OH, it'll be sealed.

I have 2 tubes of 3M-4200 and a tube of liquid urethane to lock it all together.

[Old Ironmaker]

I've had the pleasure helping a pal that has a small marine repair shop. I've done 4 transom replacements over the last few winters. I put a few coats of Spar Varnish before sliding it back in. We also used a tube of 3M 5200 to seal the tops, screws and drain holes. Like you said Dave I will be dead and my ashes spread across the sea, lakes and land of this great nation and a bit in The Erie Barge Canal before those transoms rot again. Doing a good job there Big Dave. 

Off topic off course. A little fact we didn't want to know. If a person that weighs 200 lbs. and the body has 20% water why doesn't the cremation joint give back 180 lbs. of ashes? Where does all but a few handfuls go? After I left the steel plant I worked in the refractory business for a bit. We had to replace some refractory in the cremation furnace. When I asked what temp do they lower it to rake out all the ashes of the deceased? We learned that they only lower the furnace temp at the end of the day to reduce energy costs and reducing thermal shock that contributes to refractory lining failure. Therefor the urn will contain a combination  of all those cooked that day. I hope that practice has changed in 20  years. Oh my. 

Edited May 20, 2019 by Old Ironmaker

[BillM]

I found a spot on the back of the transom of our '03 Lund ProSport.  Still solid, but I have a feeling I'll be doing this in the next year or two, lol.   

[DRIFTER_016]

A little closer to being done.
Covered in 3M-4200, liquid urethane and paint.
Probably take half the summer for it to wear off.  ?

Should get the motor put back on next weekend. 

Edited May 20, 2019 by DRIFTER_016

[misfish]

Sweet job .

[Tom S]

Can I ask the reasoning behind the 10 coats of clear? Wouldn't it be faster and more reliable to glass and vacuum bag it? Or is it a matter of keeping things simple?

[DRIFTER_016]

28 minutes ago, Tom S said:

Can I ask the reasoning behind the 10 coats of clear? Wouldn't it be faster and more reliable to glass and vacuum bag it? Or is it a matter of keeping things simple?

Don't have the resources to do that.

The original was just plain marine ply with no sealing.

It lasted 28 years, so this should last longer and I'll be dead before it needs doing again. 

[BillM]

Dave, did you have any pin holes in the transom before you started?  How did you take care of that during the rebuild?  

[DRIFTER_016]

6 minutes ago, BillM said:

Dave, did you have any pin holes in the transom before you started?  How did you take care of that during the rebuild?  

Didn't see any. The metal is in good shape.

Only holes are ones that have been drilled through it to hold stuff.

If there had been any I would have used the urethane on it. Stuff sticks like crazy and is waterproof.

They use it to hold windshields in cars. 

[DRIFTER_016]

Just about done now.
Just have to bolt the motor back on and hook it up.
Also got a new hydraulic steering system to hook up too.

[DRIFTER_016]

Motor's back where it belongs.

Just have to finish installing the new hydraulic steering and clean her up.

Now where's some open water?  

 

 

[bigbuck]

Gettin' there!! Big job. You'll probably never need to touch that again. It will be ready to tackle the water before you know it. 

[lazyarcher]

I did the transom on my 2004 Lund Alaskan 1800 a couple winters ago. Im lucky to have a large enough shop and a beam/chainfall to help with removal and installation.

Heres the transom coming out..in one piece for a template. Can you believe how rotten it is?? Crap wood with no type of glassing or sealant

 

Heres new marine grade 3/4" ply ready for the template

 

2  pieces glued and screwed together with PL construction adhesive to get 1 1/2" width

Polyester resin 2 coats applied

Then glassed

lots of resin, ready to be trimmed

lots of 4200 for everything

transom in, waterproof sealant over the top 1/4, clamped to seal

Splash well reinstalled, everything that was out reprimed

sealed and painted 

Motor reinstalled, 4200 used on every bolt, screw, rivet

 

The only blurp was I didnt calculate quite enough for the added thickness of my extra glass/resin job. It did fit snug, but will as others have said, out live/out last its owner.
 

 

 

 

Edited May 29, 2019 by lazyarcher

[Pigeontroller]

This thread shows how 'do-able' this is. Helps if you have a nice garage/shop I realize. I removed my Yamaha F90 and hung it from the rafters in my garage, If that's more than you wanna do you can take it to your marine mechanic, pay them to R&R/store it.

[lazyarcher]

47 minutes ago, Pigeontroller said:

This thread shows how 'do-able' this is. Helps if you have a nice garage/shop I realize. I removed my Yamaha F90 and hung it from the rafters in my garage, If that's more than you wanna do you can take it to your marine mechanic, pay them to R&R/store it.

Its absolutely do-able. You're right with the engine though...it could be a bit much if you dont have the equipment to handle the weight. Taking the boat to a shop and having them remove and store the engine is a great idea. The rest is just time and labor which is do-able!!

 

[BillM]

lazyarcher, great job man!!!   I'm dreading this on my 2003 Pro Sport.   I found one spot of paint bubbling at the start of the season, other then that the transom is a solid as a rock (Won't flex at all when boucing the F115 on the back).  I think I'll do this job while the transom is in relatively good shape.   I'd rather have it out in one piece then wait until it's coming out in chunks.    

[lazyarcher]

6 minutes ago, BillM said:

lazyarcher, great job man!!!   I'm dreading this on my 2003 Pro Sport.   I found one spot of paint bubbling at the start of the season, other then that the transom is a solid as a rock (Won't flex at all when boucing the F115 on the back).  I think I'll do this job while the transom is in relatively good shape.   I'd rather have it out in one piece then wait until it's coming out in chunks.    

Mine was way gone--I could see it flexing with the motor but didnt recognize it. I pulled the cap off the transom and could shove a 25 " sharpened metal rod all the way down...ouch!!!

 

I love Lunds but man did they use crap wood in the early-mid 2000s. Ive also replaced some of the floors in my Alaskan...rotted where the seat bases bolt through. The wood there was just as untreated and rotten as the transom. I understand they're better now

Edited May 29, 2019 by lazyarcher

[Pigeontroller]

I could see flexing when I bounced the motor on the trailer, (place foot on ride plate, bounce) Then I took the transom cap off and same thing, I could easily shove a 1/16'' metal pin down 10" anywhere I tried!

[BillM]

I'll pull the transom cap off in the winter and take a peak.   Ugh.

[HTHM]

A method that I used when replacing the transom on my Ranger for clamping was to make up two opposing pieces of plywood, same width as the transom, reinforced with 2 x 4 on edge and get 12 or 14 inch carriage bolts and bolt the plywood through the pre-drilled motor mounting holes. Torque those down to "red in the face and can't give her no more" tightness. 

Regarding the holes I was taught that you should over bore then prior to mounting the transom and fill then with a resin/microbead mix that way the holes will be internally sealed as well when you drill the motor mounting holes. 

Edited May 31, 2019 by HTHM

[cisco]

All great work but I'd use epoxy resin since it is both waterproof and an adhesive. Polyester resin is neither. Epoxy costs way more but it is best for marine applications.

[lazyarcher]

I used polyester waxed resin as thats what Heritage Marine told me to use..its what they make all of their transoms with...and it is waterproof..its used to waterproof wood. Epoxy has a stronger adhesive bond.

 

[DRIFTER_016]

New hydraulic steering system installed.

[wkrp]

Now you just have to wait another 2 months for ice out. lol

[lew]

Nice job Dave, hydraulic steering is one of the best things you can have on a boat.