Advice on used boat purchase

[busta39]

Hoping the members here can help.

 

I am looking to purchase my first boat. I narrowed down my search based on the type of boat I was looking for with my first option being a Lund (for resale, design and reliability). After a few months of searching, I found a 2008 Rebel 1625 xl SS for sale. It is the original owner and comes with a touch screen Lowrance fish finder, Motorguide Trolling motor (with pedal), 2008 Mercury 2 stroke and safety accessories.

I am going to look at the boat in the coming day or two but wanted your feedback.

 

I am looking to purchase the boat for 12-13k.

 

Thank you

[Old Ironmaker]

The price seems fair, even good depending on what HP that Merc. is, you forgot to mention that. It is the most valuable component of any boat. For a used boat it's all about condition. Even a clean boat 9 years old can have a punky transom and floor.

[Old Ironmaker]

Below is a sticky from iboats.com. Everyone looking at a used boat should have this list with them and use it.

 

A Good Buyers check list.

 

 

The absolute FIRST and MOST important question you should ask the seller is this.

 

DO YOU HAVE THE PROPER PAPERWORK.

 

The boat is a useless paperweight without it.

 

Absolutely positively DO NOT believe that obtaining a title is easy because in most cases it isn't. As a matter of fact offer the seller an extra $100.00 to get the proper paperwork, I bet you 95% of the time the seller will say no at that point walk away no matter how pretty and shiny the boat is WALK AWAY.

 

We are going to Start with the hull.

 

The hull.

 

 

Start at the bow outside and work your way back.

 

Go over it from bow to stern with a fine tooth comb Are there any major knicks or gashes.

 

Are there any splits in the fiberglass.

 

Look for gel coat spidering or stress cracks.

 

Is the gel coat or paint faded or is bright as if it has been cared for?

 

Is the hull straight no major dents in especially on the bottom side. I.e. an obviously visible hook in the hull.

 

Is there barnacle build up on it anywhere?

 

How does the rub rail look is it mashed in anywhere? (signs that a boat was owned by an inexperienced owner).

 

Look for brown water staining visible around the transom motor mount bolts streaking down from them (for an outboard).

 

Look for brown water staining streaking down from the splashwell plug (again an outboard).

 

Look at the trim i.e. (lights, rubrail trim, horns, anything metal) does it look pitted and corroded or well maintained?

 

Move to the inside of the hull.

 

Start from bow to stern

 

How is the general condition of the upholstery does it look well cared for?

 

How solid is the floor in ALL spots if it is spongy squishy or weak in any spots walk away (unless you are looking for a project). Don't believe that it is going to be a simple fix boats tend to rot from the bottom up.

 

Lift all the hatches and look underneath are there any signs of dampness or rot?

 

Poke prod and feel everything especially all of the hidden areas.

 

Look in the ski locker if equipped how does it look any signs of dampness or rot?

 

Look at the seat bases for signs of dampness and rot.

 

Look at the carpet is moldy and mildewed, or does it have normal wear.

 

If the floor is Plywood encased in fiberglass which is painted look for signs of delamination (fiberglass pulling up).

 

Test all of the electronics.

 

Make sure the bow and stern light are functioning properly.

Make sure the horn is working properly.

Make sure the bilge pump and blower are working properly.

Follow the wires do they look like they are properly connected and running through proper USCG approved fuse boxes? Does the wiring look like proper marine grade wire.

Test the radio and speakers make sure they are connected and working properly.

Test the steering to make sure it functions properly and easily.

 

Move to the stern.

Lift all of the hatches and motor cover.

 

Inspect the motor mounts do they look dry and clean inspect for dampness and rot.

 

How does the bilge look is it clean or has someone been draining the oil into the bilge?

 

Are there signs of brown water stains in the bilge area?

 

Inspect the transom from the inside look for signs of rot.

 

Tap on the inside of the transom with a rubber mallet how does it sound does it sound rock solid or kind of hollow does it feel solid or does it feel like mush.

[Sterling]

Size of engine? Looks like a great deal to me.

[busta39]

Sorry forgot to mention it is a 50HP 2 stroke engine.

 

I appreciate all the feedback.

[GBW]

50Hp on a 16' will not have much get up an go and you may want to repower it after a season if not happy with performance. Fine for going slowly from spot to spot and trolling but you are not going to get anywhere fast. Also depending on gear and people in the boat you may have a hard time getting it on plane. But for that price it may do you just fine. Good luck

[Raf]

max hp for that boat is 75.

[grimsbylander]

 

Is there barnacle build up on it anywhere?

 

 

 

For heavens sake don't tell the owner you're looking for barnacles!!! LOL He just figure out your a new boat owner!!

 

Being a newbie sort of speaking, find a boat you like and get it checked out by a marine mechanic. The mechanic can check the motor but also inspect the boat's electrical and plumbing. Any mechanic that's been in the business long enough will also have the eye to look over the aluminum structure. Then arrange a test drive but get the mechanic or an experienced friend to tag along.

[grimsbylander]

Sorry forgot to mention it is a 50HP 2 stroke engine.

 

I appreciate all the feedback.

 

50hp is not bad for a 1625 Rebel. It's not maxed out but it's respectable power and I can't see you being disappointed. Will you be fishing big water? ie Great Lakes? Will you be loading it down with 3+ adults?

[Old Ironmaker]

50 HP would be minimum power for that boat, especially once you start adding Offensive linemen or offensive passengers and a few pops in a cooler.

 

Please delete barnacles and insert Zebra Mussels. I didn't catch that. People buy used boats out east you know. Yes Grimsby getting a Marine guy to look at it is highly recommended. Minimally a pressure test of all cylinders. You are looking for the same pressure across all cylinders. The number of PSI will vary based on engine but I have never seen a number under 100PSI. For a 50HP 2 stroke I would expect to see 110PSI with a differential of only a few pounds maximum. It is simple to pull a plug and inspect it for carbon and wear. If the seller is serious those plugs should be new. Both my Moma engine and Baby kicker get new plugs every spring, a buddy takes my old ones out and puts them in his Mariner. I don't touch a wrench.

Edited April 12, 2017 by Old Ironmaker

[busta39]

I will mainly be fishing small lakes. Likely 2-3 people max.

Unfortunately the seller cannot tow the boat to a nearby marine mechanic and I am no expert.

I appreciate the checklist and will have my friend on the phone while I am there who is an expert.

 

There will be some degree of risk associated but I am hoping it isn't "too good to be true".

[OhioFisherman]

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBddopWYsbQ

 

 

Some various youtube videos of that boat, various years, looks like a nice boat. A 50hp motor seems to have been the standard issue motor? even as late as 2012? It should push that boat around pretty well, but it's not going to be a speed boat.

[GBW]

I will mainly be fishing small lakes. Likely 2-3 people max.

Unfortunately the seller cannot tow the boat to a nearby marine mechanic and I am no expert.

I appreciate the checklist and will have my friend on the phone while I am there who is an expert.

 

There will be some degree of risk associated but I am hoping it isn't "too good to be true".

Yeas ago I was selling a truck. The buyer said "ok I'll pay your asking price if I have 7 days buyers remorse if I take to a shop and it's costly to fix" and I replied with "must have less than 200KM on it and be in the exact same condition, no dents, no damage at all and we can document everything now and sign it and make a copy for both". I never did see that truck again...

[Old Ironmaker]

I just realized a "Rebel" is a Lund. That is a great price. I mentioned in anothet thread about buying a used boat recently my buddy just sold a similar sized Lund but a 2004 I think for more than he paid for it 10 years ago. It has electric downriggers and he threw in some trolling rods. I would grab the deal unless there are obvious problems only after splashing it (splashing it means a water test in a river or lake). You can get yourself a used 75HP with warranty for less than 4 grand from a engine dealer out of Wyoming Ont. I know that because buddy picked up a 150 horse 2 stroke Johnson around 2007 I think for $4000.00 with a 12 month warranty. The seller has a large warehouse with rows of outboards and I/O's. He moves them fast so he can offer good prices. That price included delivery as well. Steve drove out to see it and run it first and the guy knocked off 150 bucks. If anyone is looking for a used power plant PM me and I will get you his number.

Edited April 12, 2017 by Old Ironmaker

[Old Ironmaker]

Yeas ago I was selling a truck. The buyer said "ok I'll pay your asking price if I have 7 days buyers remorse if I take to a shop and it's costly to fix" and I replied with "must have less than 200KM on it and be in the exact same condition, no dents, no damage at all and we can document everything now and sign it and make a copy for both". I never did see that truck again...

That is a great way to buy used "as is" if the seller is willing. In this case the same thing can be documented and the sale is only final after splashing the boat. It is best to get the boat into the water before money changes hands. If a seller isn't willing to put the boat in the water before money changes hands walk away, fast. Running a motor on the muffs and running her under load is a huge difference. It will tell you if that boat has a leak as well.

[Dara]

Its pretty much the same as my Sylvan except I have a 60 Yamaha 4 stroke on it.

Tops out at 35 mph with just me, 30 with a bit of gear and another passenger

 

That boat went for about 16,17 brand new...they are more now because of the dollar.

I would hope to get that much or a tad more for mine and I keep it pretty nice.

 

PS, it may be up for sale in a month or so but not for certain

[lookinforwalleye]

He said he was looking to pay 12-13K....he did not say that was the asking price...

[GBW]

That is a great way to buy used "as is" if the seller is willing. In this case the same thing can be documented and the sale is only final after splashing the boat. It is best to get the boat into the water before money changes hands. If a seller isn't willing to put the boat in the water before money changes hands walk away, fast. Running a motor on the muffs and running her under load is a huge difference. It will tell you if that boat has a leak as well.

That is the whole reason I brought up my private sale transaction. This way he's got a week or two because from his post "the seller cannot trailer it..." to a place to be checked out. Now he can with said buddy vs just the phone call.

[Old Ironmaker]

I would question as to why the seller can not trailer it to a marine mechanic. That would be a giant red herring to me. Why not is my question. So obviously he can't trailer it to put it in the water. I did buy a Lund without splashing it but got a written short term warranty for a possible leak. It leaked stem to stern to the total dismay of the Marine dealer. I got my money back the next day. Had I not had a leak warranty written in I was looking a complete tear out and repair that would have cost me many thousands. 80 hours labour to be exact, that's $8000.00 before materials.

 

Busta 39, I would pass on this boat unless the seller is willing to give a written warranty, not AS IS.

Edited April 12, 2017 by Old Ironmaker

[GBW]

Maybe the person sold the 'truck' used to trailer it? If not and has means to do so then yeah sounds to good to be true for some reason, run unless you have more cash set aside to fix it...

[Pigeontroller]

12-13K seems a bit high for that boat w/ a 50 2 stroke, maybe if its in mint condition that would be a reasonable price for it.

[busta39]

Appreciate all the feedback. I am going to ask for the buyer to allow a marine mechanic to take a look as a condition. Considering these boats don't come around too often I hope he agrees. I have seen a few Lund's recently but they are all over 20k. This is more in my price range and only has the basics I am looking for as my first boat. It also helps that it fits in my garage with the swing tongue.

[GBW]

Where are you located as someone on this site might be local and come for a ride for a meal and gas cash to cover travel.

[porkpie]

Presumably the seller can tow, because they have a boat. If not, presumably you can tow because you are buying a boat. Offer to take the seller and his boat to a marina to have it checked over at your expense if you know nothing about boats. If he won't agree to that walk away no matter how good the price. Good prices come in late fall and winter. Very seldom in the spring market.

[Old Ironmaker]

I'm surprised this boat hasn't already sold. TJames from this site is looking for the exact same boat at that price actually. I think you are doing everything right Busta. Get it inspected by someone with at least experience, not necessarily a marine mechanic. Even I can do a compression test now.

 

Where are you located exactly? Like GBW said many here are more than willing to look at the boat for you unless it's a long drive.

Edited April 12, 2017 by Old Ironmaker